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  #16  
Old 10-31-2003, 05:08 PM
deruvian
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resistor change?

Perhaps the kit was updated or changed before I bought one, because one mine there is no resistor externally attached to the terminals. Is anyone else's this way as well?
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  #17  
Old 10-31-2003, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wiz
Well. My friend lost his tool that he needed to take the kit out. So nothing happened. But he gave me 2 resistors to try. A 120ohm 5watt resistor and a 200ohm 15watt resistor. I'll try those when its light out again and I have time. I'll post in this thread again when I try them with the results.

Tonight I'm just going to have to work at keeping my car from being egged.

You are exactly on the right track and the alternative values you have selected are spot on. Try 200 ohms first and if no go try 120 ohms.
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  #18  
Old 10-31-2003, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trevor



You are exactly on the right track and the alternative values you have selected are spot on. Try 200 ohms first and if no go try 120 ohms.
Thanks for the response. I'm quite glad to know I'm on the right track.
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  #19  
Old 10-31-2003, 07:49 PM
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I wired up the resistor just a few minutes ago so I can install it without having to modify the shift kit in any way. I'm going to leave the stock resistor on the kit and just try this. I attached a picture of the wiring method I'm going to use. Now I just have go get ends for it at the local hardware store tomorrow and attach it.

Oh, and I used a volt meter ahead of time to make sure this resistor setup works. It came out at 204ohms and .3ohms with the wires on one side crossed simulating the shift kit in a normal non-switched state.
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File Type: png design.png (2.1 KB, 96 views)
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Last edited by Wiz; 10-31-2003 at 07:54 PM.
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  #20  
Old 10-31-2003, 08:18 PM
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Sorry I can not understand how you have connected things.

The pressure switch contacts are arranged to break the normal resistor circuit. The 200/500 ohm resistor should be connected across the switch contacts so that instead of a complete break in the circuit a 200/500 ohm resistance is introduced when the switch opens.
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  #21  
Old 10-31-2003, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trevor
Sorry I can not understand how you have connected things.

The pressure switch contacts are arranged to break the normal resistor circuit. The 200/500 ohm resistor should be connected across the switch contacts so that instead of a complete break in the circuit a 200/500 ohm resistance is introduced when the switch opens.
The way I put it together it will work exactly as you discribe. I revised the design. I hope this one makes sense.
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Last edited by Wiz; 10-31-2003 at 08:37 PM.
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  #22  
Old 10-31-2003, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wiz

The way I put it together it will work exactly as you discribe. I revised the design. I hope this one makes sense.
Dead right. I hope the 200 ohms does the trick. Report back as this will be valuable infomation for Brian who sells the kit.

You have the right resistor. The wattage is more than is required but this size has the advantage of being mechanically robust.
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  #23  
Old 10-31-2003, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trevor


Dead right. I hope the 200 ohms does the trick. Report back as this will be valuable infomation for Brian who sells the kit.

You have the right resistor. The wattage is more than is required but this size has the advantage of being mechanically robust.
I really hope this works too and I'll definitely report back.
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  #24  
Old 11-01-2003, 11:10 AM
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Talking

Haha, I have defeated the warning of impeding doom also known as the powerlight. I installed the resistor setup today. Stopped and started the car 2 times, no power light. It just vanished and never came back.

Edit, I've been driving the car around alot now. Like its been stopped and started like 7+ times. Been going around town. No powerlight.
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Last edited by Wiz; 11-01-2003 at 01:05 PM.
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  #25  
Old 11-01-2003, 01:13 PM
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Heres a pic of it installed. The wires you can see are going to the transmission wires from resistor and to the transmission. The ones you can't see, covered by the shiftkit tubing are going to the kit it self.
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  #26  
Old 11-01-2003, 03:26 PM
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Good news,

The important thing is to let Brian at Smallcar know about your experience. I assisted him with the adding of the resistor and he did a lot of experimenting but it would now appear some cars require a lower value resistor and he should change accordingly.

I will sed him a PM. Your experience and experiments will have been worth while as others will benefit.
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  #27  
Old 11-01-2003, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trevor
Good news,

The important thing is to let Brian at Smallcar know about your experience. I assisted him with the adding of the resistor and he did a lot of experimenting but it would now appear some cars require a lower value resistor and he should change accordingly.

I will sed him a PM. Your experience and experiments will have been worth while as others will benefit.
Good, I'm glad to know my work is going to help others.

There was one interesting thing about my experiance. The powerlight just went away after I added the kit and started and stopped the car once. From what I read in the threads where Brian was experementing his did not go away until he stoped and started the car like more then 3-4 times. Maybe the TCUs from different year cars are slightly different.
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Last edited by Wiz; 11-01-2003 at 04:42 PM.
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  #28  
Old 11-01-2003, 06:52 PM
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From my experiences it takes 2 starts for the code to show up or go away.

(if I unplug the resistor I will not get a code the first time I start it but I will the next time)
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  #29  
Old 11-01-2003, 08:18 PM
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Originally posted by Earthworm
From my experiences it takes 2 starts for the code to show up or go away.

(if I unplug the resistor I will not get a code the first time I start it but I will the next time)
Its once both ways for me. Only have to have the problem once and it will blink.
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