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  #1  
Old 03-29-2006, 08:43 PM
stallion stallion is offline
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Valve Cover Gaskets: How to?

I searched the threads for em and found bits and pieces, but not a complete explanation on how to do it other than 'remove 3 coil packs' and 10 bolts, but I need more info as i'm less mechanically gifted than you all (Although i'm sure I can do it with proper instruction) If anyone can please help I would be eternally grateful: Can you give me a step by step procedure like those How-To documents? What is a coil pack and how do I remove it safely? What are some things I need to be very careful about? How do I remove/install the gaskets? Can I get a complete part # list?

I know that you remove 10 bolts or what not... But got confused as to exactly how to take out the gasket and how to secure the cover as you unbolt it (its a small space in there) Any tips and help will be appreciated!!!
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2006, 08:01 AM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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I will be replacing the valve cover seals on AmazonParrot's SVX later this Spring and may do a How-To...but that obviosuly doesn't help you right now.

A quick and dirty how-to is as follows (going from memory as I no longer own an SVX):

(Note - I recommend that you change your oil immediately after doing the valve cover seals as dust, pollen, etc can get into your engine when replacing the seals. If you can, do the swap indoors)

1) Disconnect the battery and remove entirely

2) Remove the airbox, MAF and inlet tube

You'll now have a lot of room to work with on both sides...





3) Unbolt the engine oil filler tube

4) Unbolt the three coil packs per side of the EG33 (get them out of the way)

5) Undo the ten bolts that hold each valve cover on



6) The valve cover should come right off, if not pry gently



7) Take the actual valve cover over to a bench and remove the three rubber seals - they're relatively easily to remove (one goes all around and the other two go around the middle area where the coil packs sit).

8) Take your new seals and replace. Note that the seals are specific to one side of the engine. Don't force the new seals down into the little grooves, but push them in there gently (if rubber is damaged during installation, seal will fail)

9) Replace valve covers and 10 bolts per side (someone chime in here with the torque specs on these bolts - I think it's around 10-14 ft-lbs)

10) Replace coil packs and oil filler tube

11) Replace air tube, MAF, airbox and battery

-Chike
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2006, 08:52 AM
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These prices are from www.Subaruparts.com. Good prices and fast delivery.


Hope this helps for a parts list.

Steve
Attached Files
File Type: doc rocker cover list.doc (28.5 KB, 415 views)
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  #4  
Old 03-30-2006, 09:33 AM
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That's a very good quick how-to.....can we expect this to spill or trickle oil all over the place upon removing the covers...assuming we keep our engines in the car? I've never done one myself
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  #5  
Old 03-30-2006, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msvx95
That's a very good quick how-to.....can we expect this to spill or trickle oil all over the place upon removing the covers...assuming we keep our engines in the car? I've never done one myself
Very little oil will drip. If you let the car cool down for 30 minutes before starting work - the oil will all be in the pan.

On a scale of 1-10 (10 being the hardest), I'd rate this job a 5. Trickiest part is maneuvering your wrench around to remove the valve cover bolts. It's actually easier to do the valve cover gasket job than to change the #6 spark plug!
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  #6  
Old 03-30-2006, 11:02 AM
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I have done the right side rocker cover and all the spark plugs. The #5 plug was not that hard. See...



The key is to have a good long flex head 3/8 ratchet. Once I had the air box and battery out of the way these are the only tools I used to change the spark plugs.



Took only about 1 hour.

Steve

P.S. Now the # 6 was a little hard because you have to go thru the wheel house with a extension. a nice 10" works good, or a 3" and 6" work too.


***now fixed***
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Last edited by SVX-FF; 03-30-2006 at 08:23 PM.
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  #7  
Old 04-23-2006, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVX-FF
These prices are from www.Subaruparts.com. Good prices and fast delivery.


Hope this helps for a parts list.

Steve
What part#s should I have to order from the above list for only driver's side valve cover job?? Also if a part is specified as RH, is it for the driver's side (I mean looking from the front of the car)??

thanks,
-Pavan

Last edited by pavanbabut; 04-23-2006 at 04:05 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-23-2006, 06:48 PM
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Valve cover gaskets

Its funny that this thread about replacing the valve cover gaskets was here the same time I replaced mine. Its true that it is a 5 difficulty out of 10. The rear bolts give you the most trouble and you will spend the most time getting those off and on. I took off the undercarriage cover and tighten some from the bottom as well. And if you are thinking of replacing the spark plugs this is the time to do so because you will now have much more room to do so and it will take less then 5 minutes a plug to exchange them. I had the Bosch plugs and replaced them with the NGK iriidiums, and while I was there I replaced the knock sensors as well, and it runs much better, as well as idleing better. It idles like it isn't even running. I can't wait to climb a hill at full throttle and not smell burning oil at the end.
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  #9  
Old 04-23-2006, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavanbabut
What part#s should I have to order from the above list for only driver's side valve cover job?? Also if a part is specified as RH, is it for the driver's side (I mean looking from the front of the car)??

thanks,
-Pavan

Here is a list to do both sides. The top three parts are for the driver side and you only need 10 of the washers, 4th item. The last three are for the passenger side.



There should be 20 washer not the default of 16.

Steve
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Last edited by SVX-FF; 04-24-2006 at 12:52 PM.
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  #10  
Old 04-23-2006, 08:12 PM
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Thanks Steve.. will order them this weekend. I am getting very horrible mileage, whtelse do you think I can change at the sametime and have some better fuel efficiency??
thanks,
-Pavan
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  #11  
Old 04-24-2006, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVX-FF
Here is a list to do both sides. The top three parts are for the driver side and you only need 10 of the washers, 4th item. The last three are for the passenger side.

You need 20 washers total...not 16
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  #12  
Old 04-20-2006, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stallion
I searched the threads for em and found bits and pieces, but not a complete explanation on how to do it other than 'remove 3 coil packs' and 10 bolts, but I need more info as i'm less mechanically gifted than you all (Although i'm sure I can do it with proper instruction) If anyone can please help I would be eternally grateful: Can you give me a step by step procedure like those How-To documents? What is a coil pack and how do I remove it safely? What are some things I need to be very careful about? How do I remove/install the gaskets? Can I get a complete part # list?

I know that you remove 10 bolts or what not... But got confused as to exactly how to take out the gasket and how to secure the cover as you unbolt it (its a small space in there) Any tips and help will be appreciated!!!
Wow!... u r right around the corner. BTW I am from San Rafael (yeh its there in my siggi). I too have to do the driver's side valve covers job. We can meet up some time and do the work. I come down to paul's (92svx95) house sometimes to work on our svxes. He lives in fremont and I also often come down to Sunnyvale to my friend's house on weekends. Lemme know when you are gonna do the valve covers job. I may comedown and join with you, if you dont mind .

BTW I still have to order the parts, but not sure from where. Two places are listed over here to order. Which one is the better one, I am not bothered about the price, but I need one which is good and lasts longer. What parts should I have to order to change only on one side (driver's side) and do you think its a good idea to replace spark plugs too at the same time?

-Pavan

Last edited by pavanbabut; 04-20-2006 at 08:29 PM.
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  #13  
Old 04-21-2006, 10:31 AM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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chiketd, that pic of the exposed camshafts is beautiful! Great write up, so good i may just attempt it on my own! Oh is there a special grease that should be applied when reinstalling the new seals (rubber gaskets essentially right?)
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  #14  
Old 04-21-2006, 10:40 AM
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Chiketkd Chiketkd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001
chiketd, that pic of the exposed camshafts is beautiful! Great write up, so good i may just attempt it on my own! Oh is there a special grease that should be applied when reinstalling the new seals (rubber gaskets essentially right?)
Thanks. No special grease. You could run a little engine oil over them to make 'em slide in easier.
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  #15  
Old 04-21-2006, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiketkd
Thanks. No special grease. You could run a little engine oil over them to make 'em slide in easier.
Did you use the OEM seals, or did you go with the aftermarket ones? Thanks.
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