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#16
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If you still got your links out, can you make the noise by pushing up and down on the car? Maybe someone could look forthe noise while someone pushed?
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#17
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As far as axle play is concerned, I am amazed at how much play exists in most cars. I don't think that is it.
Check the steering rack by jacking up the front of the car, put one hand at 3 oclock and one at 9 oclock and work the wheel back and forth (trying not to make the steering wheel turn). Watch the tie rod end and make sure that it is not moving. If you feel play, and the tie rod seems tight then the rack needs adjusting or the inner tie rod is worn.
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ASE Master and L1 cert. Discounted Repairs I feel a lot more like I do now then I did before. 92 SVX 5spd, (sold),92 SVX Teal, 67 Mustang 351C 5spd, 00 Galant. |
#18
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What is preventing the Konis from rattling inside the stock shock housing? This is a long shot, but I vaguely remember doing a strut replacement on a VW and the struts had screw on caps. I unscrewed them, took out the cartridges, replaced them with sealed units, and screwed the caps back on. I guess I left one of them loose enough that the new cartridge was rattling. I re-tightened and the rattle was gone.
Just a thought since nothing else seems to work for you. Matt
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Mattski 97 LSi Ebony Pearl 130k Midlife Crisis 93 Legacy Wagon 180k Training Wheels 98 Outback 180k 98 Dodge Durango 120k Ski Bus A multitude of skis to feed my need to go faster, faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death. |
#19
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Just a thought since nothing else seems to work for you.
Thanks Matt, I appreciate any ideas on this and as soon as my
mechanic feels like doing my struts for the third time, I'll make sure he's aware of all the input! I'll also be sure to let everyone know how I make out...it should be this week or the next.... Tim '92 LS-L "looks brand-new" |
#20
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Thanks for the continuing input. Pretty sure this one isn't a heat shield issue. Can't produce the noise by just pushing on a corner - I've tried many times. I'll check the steering rack next weekend.
As for the strut inserts, that might be a possibility, albeit slim. When I first installed the the rear struts, I noticed that the konis didn't fit perfectly tight in the stock housings. For those, I wrapped the top of the konis in a sleeve of bicycle tire innertube. The fronts seemed to fit tighter, but maybe there's a potential for rattle there. I've been thinking more and more about the front mounts. To the naked ear, it really seems like the noise is coming from that area. Could it be that the mounts are so soft that the spring seats are rattling against the underside of the outer part of the mount? Or is it all rubber coated under there? Can't remember. Could test the theory, I suppose: put a couple of extra spacers between the existing spacer and the spring seat, perhaps. Maybe this weekend. If that's not it, I really cant see how soft mounts of our design could cause a rattle. Can't imagine how the mounts themselves could be rattling internally, and the inner part of the mount wouldn't rattle against the spring seat because they're bolted tight and move as one unit. I drove on a gravel road today, and the rattling was terrible - unaccpetable really. Surely this can be resolved. Last edited by deligeds; 10-28-2002 at 08:40 PM. |
#21
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Dorian,
The day you find the rattle you will be happier than if the rattle never existed.
__________________
ASE Master and L1 cert. Discounted Repairs I feel a lot more like I do now then I did before. 92 SVX 5spd, (sold),92 SVX Teal, 67 Mustang 351C 5spd, 00 Galant. |
#22
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If that's not it, I really cant see how soft mounts of our design could cause a rattl
This is what I'm leaning towards...if you put your hand up in the wheelwell between the top of the strut, and the body, there
doesn't seem to be much room. If there is excessive movement in the strut mount, it seems to me that the two would touch...probably producing a noise more along the lines of what we're (I believe) hearing. Strange that the old ones didn't make any noise! My only hope at this point, is that the rubber donuts and new springs I have here in this box at my feet solve this, or else I'll need an even bigger box of vaseline when I make a suby appt.! Luckily performance doesn't seem to be hindered, because I'm starting to drive this car hard. It responds much better at the limit, than you think it will....but you probably already knew that! Tim '92 LS-L, 128K I swear, it looks brand spankin' new. |
#23
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another thought, have you thought to recheck the torque on all the bolts after the install?
__________________
ASE Master and L1 cert. Discounted Repairs I feel a lot more like I do now then I did before. 92 SVX 5spd, (sold),92 SVX Teal, 67 Mustang 351C 5spd, 00 Galant. |
#24
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Chances are your bushings for the front control arm are worn out. Mine are and I hear a clunk when I hit bumps/potholes. If I hold on the brakes, the noise is reduced. The parts are only 7bucks a piece but to put them in, that's another 1.5 hours.
Lwin
__________________
Lwin M. Maung (Member # 147) Current SVX: • NONE Previous SVXes: •1994 LE Barcelona Red 107k • 1992 LS-L Pearl White 143k • 1994 LSi Bordeaux Pearl 220k • 1992 LS-L Ebony Pearl 184k • 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 145k • 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 102k • 1992 LS-L Ebony Pearl 123k Other current cars:•2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Black If at first you don't succeed, CHEAT!
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#25
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Quote:
I was told the whole arm had to be purchased to get the bushings Can you actually see where yours are worn out? The rubber is really thick, at least 3/4" and the bushing also lets the arm move forward and backward. |
#26
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Suspension Clunk/Rattle
Hi All:
Just registered...I had a similar (same?) problem with my 92, and finally took it to a foreign auto mechanic, and he had to literally disassemble the entire front right suspension set-up to find the problem. It was a worn/cracked joint (I forget exactly what, but I have the paperwork, and can let you know). Total cost to fix was around $750 =( but it did the trick. =) |
#27
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It was a worn/cracked joint (I forget exactly what, but I have the paperwork, and can
Please look it up....I'm quite interested. TIA
Tim |
#28
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Tim:
Will look for the paperwork tonight (for some reason, it is not in my car), and post tomorrow. Victor |
#29
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the rubber piece is all gone. I am doing metal to metal on both side and I am getting it replaced at the dealer tomorrow. I can get you the part number if you want. The dealer is probably gonna charge me 1-1.5 hours on the clock though
Lwin
__________________
Lwin M. Maung (Member # 147) Current SVX: • NONE Previous SVXes: •1994 LE Barcelona Red 107k • 1992 LS-L Pearl White 143k • 1994 LSi Bordeaux Pearl 220k • 1992 LS-L Ebony Pearl 184k • 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 145k • 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 102k • 1992 LS-L Ebony Pearl 123k Other current cars:•2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Black If at first you don't succeed, CHEAT!
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#30
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Here's what the mechanic replaced on my 92 that remedied the noise: control arm (front suspension, lower control arm, left), ball joint, lower (front suspension, ball joint). Labor time (note that I am beginning to wonder about the character of this place) was 4.6hrs. =( Whatever, it worked...
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