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  #16  
Old 06-02-2002, 12:43 AM
DavieGravy DavieGravy is offline
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The copper pipe idea seemed to work pretty well. Although I was supprised to find my condensor wasn't really that dirty as far as I could tell. I got a fair amount of muck out of my radiator in the process though, so it was definately worth it. It was amazing to see the damage to the condensor right at the bottom behind the air intake in the bumper. Over time, it must have been pelted with rocks and other flying objects while on the highway.

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  #17  
Old 06-04-2002, 02:55 PM
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Unhappy OK........ (kinda long)

I've read the thread.... I still have this problem... Let me give a little background to tell you where I'm at on this. I had the Radiator and condenser replaced. Had the conversion to R134. When I left the shop the A/C worked fine. It was cool here the next couple of days so I didn't use the A/C. I tuned it on about 3days after the repair and at first it was ok... Then I shifted over to ECON...(mistake) No cool air just seemed to vent. So I went back to the AUTO position and ...NO AC...... I got mad.... I naturally assumed that I had lost the charge. Drove back to A1 Radiator... They were closed as it was after 5. On the way back home I tried the AC again and ... IT WORKED....since then I've found that if I turn the ac off and on a few times the compressor will eventually stay on for a while...... I guess the short question is where is the sensor that you all were talking about at the start of the thread? You got in to the cleaning thing which because of the new radiator and condesor .. shouldn't be a problem.. thanks for sticking with this long post.... Looking for answers
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  #18  
Old 06-04-2002, 03:28 PM
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Re: OK........ (kinda long)

My car did this when I bought it June 2000. I picked it up in NY State, spent 3 days before driving it back to Toronto. During the drive, I noticed that it would cut out intermittently, and usually either after driving hard and stopping, or in stop and go traffic. That was a pretty good clue that it was a heat related problem.

If the A/C is intermittent, and you want to find out whether it's shutting off because of the heat, then the next time it doesn't work, pull over and pop the hood open.

I did this as I pulled up to my mechanic's garage, and as I was explaining it to him with the hood open, the compressor kicked in.

A coolant flush later, and all was well.

VK

Quote:
Originally posted by Uncamitzi
I've read the thread.... I still have this problem... Let me give a little background to tell you where I'm at on this. I had the Radiator and condenser replaced. Had the conversion to R134. When I left the shop the A/C worked fine. It was cool here the next couple of days so I didn't use the A/C. I tuned it on about 3days after the repair and at first it was ok... Then I shifted over to ECON...(mistake) No cool air just seemed to vent. So I went back to the AUTO position and ...NO AC...... I got mad.... I naturally assumed that I had lost the charge. Drove back to A1 Radiator... They were closed as it was after 5. On the way back home I tried the AC again and ... IT WORKED....since then I've found that if I turn the ac off and on a few times the compressor will eventually stay on for a while...... I guess the short question is where is the sensor that you all were talking about at the start of the thread? You got in to the cleaning thing which because of the new radiator and condesor .. shouldn't be a problem.. thanks for sticking with this long post.... Looking for answers
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  #19  
Old 06-04-2002, 04:34 PM
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Question Thanks but...

New radiator = Flush and fill... all good and clean.... Does anyone know where the sensor is so I can give it a shove?
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  #20  
Old 06-04-2002, 08:12 PM
DavieGravy DavieGravy is offline
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I would like to know where the sensor is also, but you should check out something before drawing conclusions. After cleaning my condensor, I noticed that my ac wasn't really any cooler, and probably not as cool as it should be. I remeber hearing a mechanic telling me that the compressor shouldn't be cycling all the time. It should cycle and the then stop. So I popped open my hood. I noticed that the little "thing" on the compressor , if you'll excuse my poor terminology, was turning constantly when the ac was turned on. If I'm correct in assuming the compressor is cycling when the thing is rotating, then my compressor is cycling all the time. From my understanding, the usuall cause of this is a low freon charge. Although I've recently had mine recharged and after, had the system checked for a leak. They told me all is well. I'm not sure that's true. So if I were you, I'd check this out before dumping anymore money without knowing the real cause.

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  #21  
Old 06-04-2002, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DavieGravy
I remeber hearing a mechanic telling me that the compressor shouldn't be cycling all the time. It should cycle and the then stop. So I popped open my hood. I noticed that the little "thing" on the compressor , if you'll excuse my poor terminology, was turning constantly when the ac was turned on. If I'm correct in assuming the compressor is cycling when the thing is rotating, then my compressor is cycling all the time. From my understanding, the usuall cause of this is a low freon charge. Although I've recently had mine recharged and after, had the system checked for a leak. They told me all is well. I'm not sure that's true. So if I were you, I'd check this out before dumping anymore money without knowing the real cause.
Actually from what I thought I remember about the SVX's A/C system the compressor is always turning when the A/C is on and doesn't cycle like almost all other vehicles. If I'm wrong please correct me.
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  #22  
Old 06-04-2002, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Earthworm

Actually from what I thought I remember about the SVX's A/C system the compressor is always turning when the A/C is on and doesn't cycle like almost all other vehicles. If I'm wrong please correct me.
Earthworm, this is what I understood also. I'd have to check my service manuals for solid confirmation, but, I'm *almost* certain this is the case with the SVX.
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  #23  
Old 06-04-2002, 11:28 PM
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Okay, here's a quote from the manual:

"4. Air Conditioning System

1. Compressor

1) General
A wobble plate electronically controlled variable delivery compressor is used. The solenoid valve built in the compressor is controlled by the auto control unit. This ensures optimum compressor delivery with less power and less fuel, as well as smooth drive feel since ON-OFF is eliminated."
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  #24  
Old 06-05-2002, 12:31 AM
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Cool see? I told you my front end wobbled..

But seriously...... why would it be going off.... and then I have to switch the AC switch on and off 4 or 5 times to get cool air? Please believe me when I say the front end is clean and the system has been flushed.......

Still it's nice to know there's such a thing in the world as a wobble plate!
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  #25  
Old 06-05-2002, 09:04 AM
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Re: see? I told you my front end wobbled..

Quote:
Originally posted by Uncamitzi
But seriously...... why would it be going off.... and then I have to switch the AC switch on and off 4 or 5 times to get cool air? Please believe me when I say the front end is clean and the system has been flushed.......

Still it's nice to know there's such a thing in the world as a wobble plate!
Mitch,
Is it shutting down completely, or, does it just stop putting out cold air.

If the latter is true, Beav and Smokinsvx just went through a troubleshooting session just to find that "Smokin's" air blend door was at fault. His was actually missing screws. The air blend door actuator is located on the bottom of the heater casing. If you get into the passenger's footwell and look up, just to the passenger's side of the tranny tunnel, under the dash, you will probably see it. Perhaps it just needs a little help (lubrication?) in opening and closing. Look for the arm and spray it with a little silicone, then, operate the system a few times. See if that helps.

If it goes off completely, I might suspect the solenoid mentioned, or a sensor. There is actually a self diag procedure that will tell if something is mechanically wrong. It's too much to type and too many pages to scan, but, if you want, send me an e-mail and we can try to coordinate a time we can connect by phone and I could try and walk you through it.
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  #26  
Old 06-05-2002, 10:17 AM
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See? I told you my front end wobbled..

Quote:
Originally posted by Aredubjay


If it goes off completely, I might suspect the solenoid mentioned, or a sensor. There is actually a self diag procedure that will tell if something is mechanically wrong. It's too much to type and too many pages to scan, but, if you want, send me an e-mail and we can try to coordinate a time we can connect by phone and I could try and walk you through it.
RW... I've got it down to being an electrical problem I think.. when I go under the hood with the AC in the Auto position and the compressor is not turning and take the 10amp fuse for the ac out the cooling fans shut down... . after they slow down I put the fuse back in and after repeating this anywhere from 2 to 6 times the compressor comes back on. The AC blows cold when the compressor is on and outside muggy air when the compressor is off..... So ........ sensor If I can find it and give it a wack with my shoe?????:rolleyes
I will try to send an email soon. Thank you for your concern and help, and the work you put into this forum.
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  #27  
Old 06-05-2002, 11:35 AM
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The Diagnostic...

Hmm.. Just sitting here with a little time on my hands. I swiped this from the Yahoo archives...

With the ignition off, you press and hold the off and auto button
down and turn ignition on, it starts the program. It tests all of the
sensors, fans, heater, A/C and whatever else is involved and then it will give a number in the display.

11/21 = In-vehicle sensor.........open/shorted

12/22 = Ambient sensor............open/shorted

13/23 = Sunload sensor............open/shorted

14/24 = Evaporator sensor.........open/shorted

15/25 = Refrigerant temp sensor...open/shorted

16/26 = Water temp sensor.........open/shorted

31 = Air mix door (PBR)........faulty

32 = Mode door (PBR)...........faulty

33 = Mix door motor............faulty engine

34 = Mode door motor...........faulty engine

35 = Intake door motor.........faulty engine

NOTICE: Anytime codes 13, 33, 34 or 35 are displayed, the condition is one which is currently occurring. Also note that '13' is judged as 'open' not as 'shorted' (23) if there is no light directed at the sensor during the test cycle.

Resetting the climate control unit is done
similarly by holding down the "off" and "Def" buttons while turning the ignition on.
B.
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  #28  
Old 06-05-2002, 11:59 AM
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Boone, you da man (even if you were wicked with your Yellow Sparrow Avatar. AARRGGHH!)! I now *vaguely* remember someone posting that. Gosh, hard to think I've been away from Yahoo for as long as I have.
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  #29  
Old 06-05-2002, 12:16 PM
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Talking Wooo Whooooo!!!

As I've said before ....... This Network Rocks!!!!

Thanks!!!

I know what I'll do at lunch now!!!

Boone, Take an extra 5 out a petty cash for the time you saved me and RW!!!!!
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  #30  
Old 06-05-2002, 12:27 PM
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Re: Wooo Whooooo!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by Uncamitzi
Boone, Take an extra 5 out a petty cash for the time you saved me and RW!!!!!

Gee. I'm crushed. Sounds like you'd been handed down a death sentence or something.

And I was kinda looking forward to talking to you.
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