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  #1  
Old 06-25-2005, 11:55 PM
IwantaSVX IwantaSVX is offline
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Car will not start!?!?!?

I'm in need of some help. I just got back from buying this project. I've been tinkering with it for hours. The PO replaced the motor after the crank pulley came off the original (ruining the keyway of the crank).

I've been over the motor and have found that everything is hooked up, there are no loose vac hoses, etc....

I do know that I'm getting fuel at the motor. The pump runs and I not only have fuel going into the motor but there is also fuel coming out the return line (when the pump kicks on).

The car will turn over just fine and tries to start if you either pump or hold the accelerator to the floor. It catches and every so often it may try and run for a second or two then nothing.

I decided to pull a plug and see if they were fouled with fuel (from hours of me playing with it), and to check and make sure I have spark. The plugs were brand new when the motor was put in and are still brand new.....they were NOT wet at all. I do have spark.

So, at this point....I'm clueless. I know the fuel pump relays are working (the brown relay and round metal one that attaches to the ECM). My only guess is the injectors must cycle to pump fuel into the cylinders and obviously are not cycling.

Anyone have any ideas or pointers. I was going to check grounds as the short wire that attaches from the battery to body looks like it might not be 100% but everything else in the car works (minus the power antenna).....and that seems like a common ground. So, I believe I can rule that out.

Any help is appreciated.....I'd like to get the car running!
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  #2  
Old 06-26-2005, 01:57 AM
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UberRoo UberRoo is offline
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In other threads I've read numerous suggestions that the mass airflow sensor; and crank and cam position sensors are usually the cause of the problem you're having. I have no personal experience in the matter specifically, but I would agree that those are likely suspects based on your symptoms. Also in some of those threads, the victims of these problems were not getting trouble codes, so the obvious checks may slip past you. One person fixed the problem by wiggling the connector on the wiring harness under the hood. Other people replaced sensors and had instant success.

By the way, checking the vacuum hoses was a good place to start. It also causes those symptoms. The MAF problem can often be overcome by lots of cranking and playing with the throttle pedal. The crank or cam sensors will leave you dead in the water. I think the cam sensor is more prone to failure than the crank sensor, but I'm reeeally speculating on that based on my searches.
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  #3  
Old 06-26-2005, 07:51 AM
IwantaSVX IwantaSVX is offline
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I don't think that is my problem. I'm seem to be getting good spark but no fuel to the plug. I have fuel to the motor though.

I'm assuming the cam/crank sensors have to do with spark.
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1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Silver/Grey Leather - 114K - (FOR SALE - POSS AS A 5SPD)
2001 Mercury Mountaineer AWD - (At the Body Shop Still)
1996 Camaro Z28 Conv - (Sold)
1997 Dodge Ram Sport QC - (Sold)
1996 Camaro Z28 Conv - (Sold)
1998 Dodge Neon Sport - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
1996 Camaro Z28 HT - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
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  #4  
Old 06-26-2005, 10:18 AM
IwantaSVX IwantaSVX is offline
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Here is an interesting twist to everything. The plug I checked last night was the passenger's side front. It was not wet but looked like it had been firing.

I pulled the driver's side front plug today and it was wet. Not drenched but did not look like it was firing.

While I had the passenger's plug out...I decided to start the car (for the hell of it). The CAR RUNS WITH THIS PLUG OUT! It does not run great but if I keep on the gas and work with it....I had it idling at 750 rpms. Seems like it is still missing more than one cylinder but it was running and the check engine light and other lights stayed out.

If I put the plug back in it goes right back to the same crap. I could also hear a hissing when I kept cranking on it. Ran up to the motor and tracked it down to the passenger's side manifold connection.

Anyone have any ideas??? Its obviously something stupid that I'm overlooking....never seen a car that does not run, start and run with a spark plug removed!
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1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Silver/Grey Leather - 114K - (FOR SALE - POSS AS A 5SPD)
2001 Mercury Mountaineer AWD - (At the Body Shop Still)
1996 Camaro Z28 Conv - (Sold)
1997 Dodge Ram Sport QC - (Sold)
1996 Camaro Z28 Conv - (Sold)
1998 Dodge Neon Sport - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
1996 Camaro Z28 HT - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Custom 5 Speed Swap (Sold)
1993 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe - (Sold)
1994 Subaru Loyale Wagon - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
1993 Ford Taurus SHO - (Sold)
1989 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
1991 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe - (Sold)
1989 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe - (Sold)
1993 Ford Taurus SHO - (Sold)
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  #5  
Old 06-26-2005, 11:36 AM
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NikFu S. NikFu S. is offline
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Maybe a bad coil? Check the voltage on your spark wires.
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  #6  
Old 06-26-2005, 08:48 PM
IwantaSVX IwantaSVX is offline
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Ok, I suggested a plugged cat when I heard the passenger's manifold connection hissing (after I had been trying to start to the car).

So, I dropped both front pipes off to find that the cats have broken apart and were plugging.

I can get the car to start now with all of the plugs and coils on but not run! It will eventually start after some cranking and holding of the gas pedal and such. It revs up and if I keep on the gas it will run smoothly. Let off the car it either drops to 500 and the oil light comes on as it dies or it just immeadiately dies.

I've ruled out anything such as timing, coils, plugs, etc...as it will run now and very smoothly at that but just doesn't stay running.

I also must mention that after trying to get it to start....the ground wires from the battery are extremely HOT, especially the one from the battery to body. I ran through some testing of power/ground for the MPFI at the ECU and its getting good ground and power.

I'm still getting a code 24 for an air by-pass valve that appears to be mounted to the bottom of the throttle body.

Any ideas?? I'm going to hollow the cats out tomorrow and I'd like to have the car registered and driving by Wednesday!
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1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Silver/Grey Leather - 114K - (FOR SALE - POSS AS A 5SPD)
2001 Mercury Mountaineer AWD - (At the Body Shop Still)
1996 Camaro Z28 Conv - (Sold)
1997 Dodge Ram Sport QC - (Sold)
1996 Camaro Z28 Conv - (Sold)
1998 Dodge Neon Sport - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
1996 Camaro Z28 HT - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Custom 5 Speed Swap (Sold)
1993 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe - (Sold)
1994 Subaru Loyale Wagon - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
1993 Ford Taurus SHO - (Sold)
1989 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe - (Sold)
1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - (Sold)
1991 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe - (Sold)
1989 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe - (Sold)
1993 Ford Taurus SHO - (Sold)
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  #7  
Old 06-27-2005, 12:15 AM
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UberRoo UberRoo is offline
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Come to think of it, the air bypass valve is also supposed to cause similar symptoms.

Regardless of whether you're getting spark and fuel or not, the MAF and cam/crank sensors can still cause problems. The right amount of fuel is necessary, and the spark must arrive at the correct time.

Plugged cats will cause you to loose power under load, but the car will idle just fine. Broken cats are another matter.

The battery wires will get hot with constant cranking. That's normal, but not exactly healthy for the starter motor.

I agree that it's unlikely that the plugs and coils have all failed simultaneously, but what makes you think the timing and fuel are correct? An engine needs three things: Fuel, air, and spark. The air is usually a given, but perhaps the timing belt has slipped? If not, then obviously either the spark or the fuel are not correct because the engine doesn't run right. Again, I can't speak from personal experience, but everything you say is like déjà vu of the previous threads I've read about the MAF and cam/crank sensors. It could be something else and I don't want to lead you down the wrong path, but I'd be hesitant to rule them out without a reason to believe they're working correctly.
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