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  #16  
Old 10-05-2005, 06:51 PM
billb billb is offline
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Wow. That sounds like exactly the same problem. I really thought the temp sensor would fix it. Of, course, there's been several things that I was sure would fix it. I didn't check the new temp sensor or the old one. I guess I will, but it's hard to believe I could have two that act exactly the same way. The new one came from 1stsubaruparts.
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  #17  
Old 10-05-2005, 09:30 PM
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Electrophil Electrophil is offline
Which manual is "that" in??
 
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Yeah, it's hard to swallow that 2 would be bad.

But mine wasn't "bad". As in, it didn't work. It did work, it was just weak. When they totally go out, their resistance becomes an open. When that happens, you will know, cause your radiator fans will never turn off. They will stay on anytime the car is running regardless of temp. That's the failsafe when the sensor completely go out, along with driving like a sputtering go-kart. Mine never reached that point. It was just bad enough to destroy a smooth transition from cold engine, to warmed engine.

If you want to check it, it should be 30Kohm with engine cold (68*F), and around 400ohms with engine fully warmed up(176*F). The bad one I had showed 26Kohm cold, and 1.2Kohm fully warmed up. I think that affects the fuel map, and thats where our problems come in.
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  #18  
Old 10-07-2005, 05:07 AM
billb billb is offline
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There is only one coolant temp sensor, right? The one I replaced is on the driver's side, below the TPS.
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  #19  
Old 10-07-2005, 01:32 PM
billb billb is offline
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Are you sure about those numbers?

I just found my old one and it measures 2.5k ohm. It's been sitting in the garage all day and the temp is about 60 degrees.

Since my new one didn't make any difference in performance, I was kind of thinking that the old one was going to measure the correct resistance.

I just checked it again. It's 2.5k when cold. When I stick it in almost boiling water, it goes down to about 425 ohms. Stick it back in cold tap water (that should be around 65 degrees), it goes back to 2.5k. This is the old one I took out. If your numbers are right, it's definitely bad and the ECU would think the engine is warmer than it really is.

If that new sensor is bad, I'm going to be really PO'd. I've spend so much time and money chasing this problem. My daughter is out in the car so I probably won't be able to pull it until tomorrow.

Last edited by billb; 10-07-2005 at 01:50 PM.
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  #20  
Old 10-07-2005, 02:29 PM
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Budfreak Budfreak is offline
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Question

so what is the sensor on the front of the engine behind the alternator that has the one prong connection on top of it? i thought it was a coolant sensor too?
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  #21  
Old 10-07-2005, 02:36 PM
billb billb is offline
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I just found it in the manual. The coolant temp sensor should be 2000 to 3000 ohms at 68 degrees. It should be 300 to 400 ohms at 176 degrees. I guess mine is OK.
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  #22  
Old 10-07-2005, 05:11 PM
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Earthworm Earthworm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budfreak1
so what is the sensor on the front of the engine behind the alternator that has the one prong connection on top of it? i thought it was a coolant sensor too?
That's the sensor for the temperature gauge only. I'm sure they could have got away with just one sensor and run a wire from the ECU to the gauge instead.
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