Head gasket, timing belt, water pump, and new engine questions

[Cotton]

This may be a bit long.....

I've had some serious work done to my car during a very long ordeal with my mechanic in getting the work done. Long story short with them is I have been going to them since I could drive and they were always great to me, but the father died and it seems now things are way down hill with them in terms of giving a **** about someone getting a car back in any timely manner.

So I had the car sit for a long time and it was buried in the mounds of snow in my driveway for months. Once I could get to it the battery was dead. I noticed that the overflow tank and radiator had what looked like brown clay in it. I looked up on line and the suggestions were blown head gasket or rusted radiator. I had it towed to the mechanic to have a new battery put in it and have the system flushed. When they did this the trans went and it caused the radiator to blow as well. I decided to do a 4.44 swap and have them put in an aluminum radiator in it.

Fast forward several frustrating months later I get the car back. They also flushed the system, replaced the themostat, new fluids, and fixed and exhaust leak as well. During this it overheated and blew a hose and they found a clog in the hose that leads to the reserve tank. After that they called me to pick it up. I pick it up and it runs AWESOME! I noticed the temp gauge was creeping up. Not into the red, but 3/4 the way. Figured it may have been because it was a hot day or whatever. Stopped and got gas and took it the car wash. On the way home it seemed to not spike, but when I got in my driveway I could hear something from the engine. I check and see that the coolant in the reserve tank is boiling it. I noticed that it was not mixed with oil. You could see steam come out a bit and a some trickles of coolant but nothing leaking and only coming from the lid because it was boiling. I sit the car for a few hours and take it back there. Before I take it back I noticed the reserve tank was empty but I did not leak any fluid. I drove it slow (I got on it before I noticed it on the way back from the shop) and the temp gauge totally normal. I drop it off last Thursday (after having it for 4 hours, driving it 30 minutes, and paying $2,000) and they did not get to it right away (what a shock?) but they are going to totally flush the car again and wait 24 hours before trying it again, which will mean next week sometime or whenever they feel like it, I guess.

So it is either:

A.) My head gasket blew.

B.) There is a blockage from that peanut butter looking crud that was in there before and that was water/rust that sat for months in awful weather conditions that needs to be correctly flushed out.

I am preparing for the worst so I have an idea on what to do.

So here are my questions after that long rant.

I'm going to be looking at another shop to do any/all work from now on. I am trying to get an idea on what costs are to do these things.

What is it normally cost to do a head gasket on the SVX? Do they require any special torque bolts? I am looking at costs to take it to a shop and have them do it all, but also to have someone else do it where I supply parts. What do the parts required for the head replacement cost and is there a specific brand that is best? I have read Cometic is the best, but I am not sure as to what size and thickness is the best to pick. What are the differences and benefits to picking a larger/smaller bore and thickness?

If I go this route (if I have to) I am strongly considering doing the timing belt and water pump as well as I will already have the motor out. With the motor already being out for the head, what am I looking at for that work? Same question about the parts (belt and pump) and brand as well.

Also on the table would be an engine swap. What does something like this usually cost on an SVX? Is it literally drop it in and reconnect or is there more required with a different engine for the mechanic to do? If I look up an engine and it says it is for a 2WD SVX does this matter for mine (dumb question, probably, but I want to be sure)? Does my 4.44 have any difference in what SVX engine I drop in? Are JDM engines a better option and is the cost the same to drop it in as far as labor is concerned?

I am just trying to get as much data as I can with this. I already have a pissed off wife that is annoyed at the whole process with how long they have taken and being $3K total invested and it not running yet with looming potential costs on this on the horizon. It's been a nightmare.

Even if it just not full flushed from that gunk that did not seem to be coolant/oil because it was rock hard gunk and not the head, I am likely to consider these things in the future with 95K on the clock of the car. Engine has been very strong so I am hopeful it is not the issue, but realistic as well. Do the heads, timing belt, and water pump typically do at around 100K like on a lot of cars (German in particular)? I just hope not to have to put the money out now.

If you made it this far of reading my rant, thank you for that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[SVXRide]

Welcome to the world of EG33 head gaskets

Given your location, I'd strongly suggest contacting Nate (1986nate) or Tom (SVXFiles). Both are very straight up SVX guys who will do right by you. Nate is somewhere in Pennsylvania (Meadville?), while Tom is Wiley Ford, WVa (spitting distance from Cumberland, MD).

Good luck!
Bill

[Cotton]

Thank you. I have noticed a lot of people from PA are here.

[fasteract7]

Most shops can document the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant to point towards a HG problem.

[Cotton]

Yeah, hopefully they are doing that.

[Cotton]

Based on what I have found tonight, this would be EXACTLY what I would need to replicate OEM standards for head gaskets for the SVX:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cometic-Head...c4ca9d&vxp=mtr

Correct or incorrect?

[Tireiron]

Correct. That is the size I just used. They are beautiful gaskets, just be sure the surfaces of the block and heads are cleaned properly and straight.

After assembly I had to cut off one of two of the rivets because they interfered with the inner timing cover, but once the heads are fully bolted on the rivets don't serve a purpose anyway.

[Tapani]

Mine were a success too.

See photos for the tabs and timing cover issue.

/T

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Cotton

Based on what I have found tonight, this would be EXACTLY what I would need to replicate OEM standards for head gaskets for the SVX:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cometic-Head...c4ca9d&vxp=mtr

Correct or incorrect?

.

CORRECT

The stock thickness for the Cometic head gasket for the SVX is .066"
Bore is 98mm (stock), 100mm, 102 mm fore re-bored cylinders.

The center or shim layer is uncoated stainless steel layer which can be adjusted in thickness to accommodate various requirements. This is in case of excessive head or block resurfacing to restore the original specs and compression ratios. You can have the MLS (multi-layer steel) gaskets made in the following thicknesses:

.027", .030", .036", .040", .045", .051", .056", .060", .066", .070", .075", .080”, .086”, .089", .092”, .095" .098”, .120" and .140"

http://www.shopengineparts.com/produ...3L&type=engine

.

[Cotton]

Are timing belt kits with a water pump like this OK?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-97-Subaru...bdddd2&vxp=mtr

[steveherman]

Originally Posted by Cotton

Are timing belt kits with a water pump like this OK?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-97-Subaru...bdddd2&vxp=mtr

yes they are fine

[Cotton]

Went it got it a bit ago. Overheated a bit on the way home. Got it home OK. Called another mechanic that was suggested to me to bring it in next week to get a confirmation on the head being blown. After that, I'll figure out what I am going to do. I may just let it sit for a while just so I can save some money to do either the head work or an engine swap. It is what it is.

[Cotton]

Unreal. Un****ing real!

So it appears that it was not flushed, but it was actual a stop leak that was put in this time when I brought it back there. I thought they were just flushing it.

So now after it cooled down, I go back to look at find what looks like ****ing cooper clips in my reserve tank. What the hell is this? I am so at my end with this ****. I am having it now towed to the other shop as I am afraid to start it after seeing this. Will this flush out or does this totally damage my engine? What is this?

[Cotton]

Doing some searching, it has to be this stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Bars-1109-Liqu...pr_product_top

Frankly, I don't want to even talk to the shop ever again at this point so I am going to probably have it towed to the other shop. Sounds like it should be able to be cleaned out, I guess. It has not been a good time for me with this car. I am beyond frustrated.

[Tapani]

You know, wasn't this where you started? I mean you had some gunk in the system to start with?

It is not that easy to get it all out with one flush. The system is complicated, lots of small hard to access recessions and corners. And do not forget the heater core..... it's all filed with the same stuff, including the new radiator..... you mentioned aluminium rad - what kind?

One thing to rememer - when the temp gauge needle starts to creep up from the horizontal position you're already overheating.... there's a 30 degree dead zone built into the gauge. If you're system is not pressurized for what ever reason the coolant could be boiling already.

Bubbles in the reservoir are caused either by leaking HGs (exhaust gas) or boiling coolant (steam).

If you are located close to Nate why not contact him?

Engine out, heads off, all coolant passage plugs out, heavy flushing - including rad and heater cores + all hoses and metal pipes. If heater core is plugged it will not be easy to clean it w/o taking the heater apart.

An unknown shop may charge big money for all this.


What ever you decide to do, don't forget the whole crew here will support you.

Driving a rather complicated 22 years old car - starting to develop DIY skills is highly recommended . You know, what ever projects I do I always figure out a ball park number for what it would cost to have it done - then I spend 20% of the total labor cost in tools. After 30 years I think it's been a good strategy.

Kind regards from Finland,

Tapani

edit: PM me your address, I will send you a pair of brand new OEM head gaskets. They came with the gasket kit, but I used the Cometics. It's a start to gather what ever you will need to get this right.