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  #1  
Old 02-03-2007, 09:15 AM
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AlcyoneDaze AlcyoneDaze is offline
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Bench Racing

SVX vs. 3000GT NA

all things being equal, no modifications or anything, what are your opinions on who might come out on top. the NA 3000has about 222hp and a little less weight, the SVX has 230hp and 3500lbs.

Also, at the dragstrip, should I launch in AWD or FWD, Drive or Manual mode?
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  #2  
Old 02-03-2007, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlcyoneDaze
SVX vs. 3000GT NA

all things being equal, no modifications or anything, what are your opinions on who might come out on top. the NA 3000has about 222hp and a little less weight, the SVX has 230hp and 3500lbs.

Also, at the dragstrip, should I launch in AWD or FWD, Drive or Manual mode?
Launch in drive and NEVER with FWD. Brake torque to 2,400-2,600 RPM and mash it on the last yellow light. I've raced a 3000GT N/A when I still had stock gears and exhaust and I pulled away rather easily, So I vote for SVX.
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2007, 10:08 AM
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In one of the promotion videos it outperformed the 3000gt on the skidpad.
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2007, 12:33 PM
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And to say... before I learned of the SVX... 3000GT was the car I wanted... lol...

Hey... I was young and stupid back then
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  #5  
Old 02-03-2007, 01:26 PM
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In the first gran turismo a stock svx beats a n/a 3000gt in a straight line with no handicap turned on
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2007, 02:00 PM
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At the track

There is a black 3000GT n/a that I have raced on many at the track. I would almost always git just a bit of jump at the line, but the slips always show nearly identical 60 foot times and the difference was just reaction time. At the 1/8 mile mark, I always pulled away and put distance between us. This was the constant result when doing time trials against him until he got mad and installed NO2. I will look on my laptop for the actual runs I have saved in my database and see if I can find the stats and possible the slips themselves. Hope this helps...

Also for what its worth, he had less than 100K miles and his motor and I was at the 160K at the time.
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2007, 06:17 PM
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Hey awesome, thanks for the info and experience everybody.

I'm not a street racing punk (anymore) so we're going to grudge match at Island Dragway when they open back up for the season. His car has no mods besides a short shifter and a boomin' system

Does anyone have any opinions on whether to manually shift or just keep it in Drive & PWR mode? I know manual shifting will raise the RPMs to redline, is this desirable?
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2007, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlcyoneDaze
Hey awesome, thanks for the info and experience everybody.

I'm not a street racing punk (anymore) so we're going to grudge match at Island Dragway when they open back up for the season. His car has no mods besides a short shifter and a boomin' system

Does anyone have any opinions on whether to manually shift or just keep it in Drive & PWR mode? I know manual shifting will raise the RPMs to redline, is this desirable?
Nope...
  • take out all unnecessary weight (spare tire, tools, sub box, etc...)
  • Put the car in "drive"
  • pre stage... inch forward slowly until shallow staged (go deep if you have crappy RT)
  • stage
  • hold foot firm on brake
  • apply about half throttle to reach flash stall RPM on the converter
  • on the third yellow light (DO NOT PREDICT) release foot brake, apply rest of throttle.
If its heads up, dont look back. If its a bracket race, watch mirrors to see if sandbagging is required.

Post pictures of win and time slip afterwards

Note... I would not recommend doing this very often back to back without additional transmission cooling. If you have PWR, you should be fine.
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ECU Tune (stage 1), PWR (prototype aluminum radiator)
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#1 92 Teal LSl 246k (Dedicated SVX Race Car, now with 4.44 speed)
#2 92 Teal LSl 125k (Retired, car rescued from a field of weeds)
2007 Impreza 2.5i Special Edition, Obsidian Black Pearl (Daily driver)
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 quad cab, Cummins turbo diesel 4x4 (race car & RV hauler)
1985 Honda VF500 Interceptor (fair weather fun commuter)

Going on 11 years of NHRA bracket racing
NHRA Div 6 Car/Driver # T654 (site being rebuilt, new name is www.teamsvxracing.com)
2000 1st Place Club Challenge Series
2002 3rd Place Season Track Champion, Import Racing (Firebird Raceway)
2003 4th Place Season Track Champion, Import Racing (Firebird Raceway)
2003 1st Place NW Regional Import Shootout (July 5th)
2004 1st Place Club Challenge #1 (Firebird Raceway)
2004 1st Place NHRA "King of the Track" race
2004 NHRA Gold Cup 2nd place season win
2004 Import/Sport Compact 3rd place season win
2004 Division 6 Summit/ET NHRA Race of Champions finalist competitor (Mission, BC)
2007 1st Place Import Survival #3
2007 1st Place Track Champion Import Summer Jam (Wild Street Class)
2007 1st Place Import Survival #5
2008 Club season 1st place win, Club Champion
2008 2nd Place Season Import Final.
2008 Division 6 Summit/ET NHRA Import Finals (Woodburn, Or)
2009 2nd Place Import Summer Jam (Wild Street Class)
2010 1st Place Club race #2 - 1st place Sport Compact race #1 & #2

Last edited by Chris; 02-03-2007 at 07:01 PM.
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  #9  
Old 02-03-2007, 08:46 PM
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The 3000GT engines were all over the place. I've driven some that were absolute mutts and some that were pretty healthy. Don't wager too much until you know the car...
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  #10  
Old 02-03-2007, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beav
The 3000GT engines were all over the place. I've driven some that were absolute mutts and some that were pretty healthy. Don't wager too much until you know the car...
Always the safest bet....
Especially noted for the ones that watch the terrible racing reality show "Pinks"
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ECU Tune (stage 1), PWR (prototype aluminum radiator)
Amateur Radio - General Class - K7SVX
#1 92 Teal LSl 246k (Dedicated SVX Race Car, now with 4.44 speed)
#2 92 Teal LSl 125k (Retired, car rescued from a field of weeds)
2007 Impreza 2.5i Special Edition, Obsidian Black Pearl (Daily driver)
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 quad cab, Cummins turbo diesel 4x4 (race car & RV hauler)
1985 Honda VF500 Interceptor (fair weather fun commuter)

Going on 11 years of NHRA bracket racing
NHRA Div 6 Car/Driver # T654 (site being rebuilt, new name is www.teamsvxracing.com)
2000 1st Place Club Challenge Series
2002 3rd Place Season Track Champion, Import Racing (Firebird Raceway)
2003 4th Place Season Track Champion, Import Racing (Firebird Raceway)
2003 1st Place NW Regional Import Shootout (July 5th)
2004 1st Place Club Challenge #1 (Firebird Raceway)
2004 1st Place NHRA "King of the Track" race
2004 NHRA Gold Cup 2nd place season win
2004 Import/Sport Compact 3rd place season win
2004 Division 6 Summit/ET NHRA Race of Champions finalist competitor (Mission, BC)
2007 1st Place Import Survival #3
2007 1st Place Track Champion Import Summer Jam (Wild Street Class)
2007 1st Place Import Survival #5
2008 Club season 1st place win, Club Champion
2008 2nd Place Season Import Final.
2008 Division 6 Summit/ET NHRA Import Finals (Woodburn, Or)
2009 2nd Place Import Summer Jam (Wild Street Class)
2010 1st Place Club race #2 - 1st place Sport Compact race #1 & #2
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  #11  
Old 02-04-2007, 01:09 PM
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AlcyoneDaze AlcyoneDaze is offline
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Pinks - a show about drag racing that bears no resemblance to actual drag racing.

Okay, thanks for all the tips, I figured we would be pretty close, he does have a 5 speed though and shifts it really quick, guy is no slouch at driving.

I was going to just do a single run anyway, the SVX wasnt really made for this kinda thing
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  #12  
Old 02-04-2007, 01:27 PM
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I'll race him

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  #13  
Old 02-04-2007, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlcyoneDaze

Okay, thanks for all the tips, I figured we would be pretty close, he does have a 5 speed though and shifts it really quick, guy is no slouch at driving.
Fast shifting without specific calculated clutch engagement is not the answer. A clutch in no way resembles a torque converter.
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  #14  
Old 02-05-2007, 11:15 AM
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What do you guys think about removing my air filter just for the race? I've never had a car with a MAF, is this one of those tricks that works on the SVX? or a no-no
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  #15  
Old 02-05-2007, 11:25 AM
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You'd have to try it and see. I actually had a high flow cone on mine with the stage III S/C kit, and it caused the MAF to get faulty readings due to turbulan airflow, but as I remember it when young Tom removed his and left the box cracked open, it increased his power on the dyno slightly.
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