Swapping AC Compressor - Quick Questions

[Treppiede]

Brian,
Thank you for your reply, I will definitely be trying ES-12a if I ever get that far with this "project".

Guys, I know I have the bad habit of soaking my threads with questions, and a long thread with a gazillion questions is more likely to be ignored or answered partially, so from now on I will be asking ONE question per post, since this is the 1st time I mess with AC and I want to do this RIGHT. I apologize for being verbose.

The compressor I am about to install is very dirty. The little oil that came out contains small dust particles. I REALLY want my AC system to be clean before I fill it up. I have read that you are not supposed to use those flushing kits through a Compressor, Dryer, "Muffler", Expansion Valve and Condenser. If this is true, what the heck is it left to flush, just the lines?! This is frustrating.

I am hesitating to put the compressor in the car because if I can't use the flush kit through it I must find a way to flush it manually while outside the vehicle.

Please enlighten me.

Thank you for your patience.

-Walter

[YourConfused]

Never flush the dryer, just replace it.
You could flush the compressor with some new oil and some solvent, then fill back with new oil to flush the flush and after all that just fill with new oil. To flush it I would fill it while spinning the compressor by hand, then turn upside down while spinning it over to get it all out.
You can flush the rest of the system with the dryer and compressor disconnected.

p.s. use a clean milk jug taped to the end of whatever hose you are flushing so you can see when the fluid comes out clean and to make less of a mess.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Treppiede

Gentlemen,
Thank you so much for your replies.
*******If you said this right... shop flush system
...pull a vacume to check for leaks ( not the purpose of pulling a vacuum.

Hondasucks:I'll follow your oil-refilling tips AFTER the shop has flushed the system NOT

*****When a vacuum is pulled the system has to be filled with freon, right then.

Hondasucks: I suppose I'll follow your oil-refilling tips AFTER the shop has flushed the system and pulled a vacuum to check for leaks, right before refilling with Freon.

Please correct me if I am wrong, but I say this because the oil that's coming out of the compressor right now seems to have small dirt particles inside. Do you know if the machines that they use in AC shops flush the oil compartment of these compressors? I'll have to call and ask the guy I suppose.

Regards,

-Walter

Bottom line... put the replacement compressor on the car, hook up the lines with new O rings, and just let the mechanic do it. Too many things have to be done right and in correct sequence and they are already going to do almost everything.

You are learning a lot with this experience and I certainly admire your courage! Probably the best for you.

Keith

[Treppiede]

Thank you for the info.

YourConfused: I wouldn't flush the system through the new dryer, I guess that's the only part in that list of "non-flushable" components that makes sense to me.

Keith: I would love to get the final part (fush, vacuum, refill) performed by a professional, but as soon as I mention something other than R-134a, they 'panic 'and refuse to help. I really want to use ES-12a, so I think I have no choice.

Question: When I pour oil in the compressor, turn the wheel and drain it (repeating the process to clean it inside), does it make a difference which hole I pour the oil in looking at the picture I posted above?

Thank you,

-Walter

[Treppiede]

UPDATE: I spoke with buddy of mine here at work and he answered my question.

- Oil type to use: POE
- Side of compressor where to pour oil: Suction
- How to find out which way to turn the pulley while pouring oil: put hand on Suction side, spin both ways, one of them will create a vacuum in the suction hole. That's the direction.
- Best way to drain compressor: turn pulley in the opposite direction from when you were filling the compressor, while holding it upside down

The above is the kind of information I needed, now I can go flush the compressor with fresh POE, install it and finally start worrying about the actual flush/vacuum and refill.

I'll post any updates/questions here.

Regards,

-Walter

[Treppiede]

Originally Posted by Treppiede

- Oil type to use: POE

Quick question guys: I can't seem to find POE anywhere locally. All I find is PAG. I read online that they are compatible with each other, so I am thinking of getting two cans of low-viscosity PAG lubricant to clean the compressor.

Do you guys know which is best for our cars (POE or PAG) and what viscosity (low/med/high) to choose when refilling the system?

Thanks!

-Walter

[Hondasucks]

The reason a lot of shops are wary of oddball refrigerants, is there are a lot of them out there that are NOT legal, and shops don't want that liability. I used to have a list of the different alternative refrigerants that are out there and which ones are OK to use and which ones aren't, I'll post it if I can find it, it's with all my stuff from Wyotech. Some of them contain butane, which works very well as a refrigerant, it is highly flammable, so a collison = BOOM.

(On a side note, those diesel fired reefer units that they use on the refrigerated semi truck trailers and such, use propane as a refrigerant.)

[Brian]

Yeah, back when I was "researching" the Enviro Safe products on the Internet, I came across postings about other alternative refrigerants that were simply compressed combustible gass. I don't recall if it was methane, butane, or what, but that was the only ingredient. And I don't remember what name(s) it was sold under. I definitely wasn't going to use one of those in my car!

[Hondasucks]

You might try printing off some information about the product you intend to use, and take that in with you, might make them more comfortable with using it.

[Treppiede]

Guys,
I am about to purchase cans of ES-21a from autorefrigerants.com.

They have a ratio on their website to calculate how many cans of ES-12a are needed based on the R134a capacity of the AC system.

Therefore, my question is:

How many lbs of R134a do our cars take total?

Thanks in advance!

-Walter

PS= I know I might have been able to search for this but I don't have much time to be on the Forum right now and I wanted to order these as soon as I go to lunch.

[Brian]

Walter, looking back at my records, it only took 2 cans of ES-12a to fill my system. I was able to get the stuff locally for just over $10/can. I think the R-12 systems take 1.5 pounds. I'd guess that the R-134a systems take the same amount.

[Treppiede]

Thanks Brian.

I wound up ordering the following:

- 4 ES-12a cans
- 1 ES-12a can with dye
- 1 Stopleak

If anything is left after the job, I guess I could use to convert the system in my little Civic one day.

Thanks again for your reply.

Regards,

-Walter

[redsvx94]

I've been in a similar situation as Treppiede. I have left a replacement compressor (which came with oil inside) for more than a year in my garage. Now it is quite hard to rotate the clutch plate. It seems to be stuck in dried oil or something inside. Tried to drain oil, nothing comes out. What kind of solvent should I use to flush the compressor?
Also I have bolted in new drier in my car before I realize my compressor clutch plate is stuck and left it in the car for months. ( yea I'm ashamed...) I have NOT connected the hoses and NOT removed the rubber cap on in-out ports though. Should I dump this drier and get a new one?

Thanks for the help!

[redsvx94]

Any opinion?

[kwren]

Originally Posted by redsvx94

Any opinion?

yes.............