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  #46  
Old 01-06-2006, 01:57 AM
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Hey buddy, maybe you could help answer some of my transmission questions here:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...894#post366894

thanks,
Jake
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  #47  
Old 01-06-2006, 11:50 PM
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thanks for replyin buddy (in my thread)
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  #48  
Old 11-07-2006, 02:55 AM
Retired Kiwi Retired Kiwi is offline
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Question Steering wheel shake at low speeds

Never noticed this in my 96 SVX (76,000 kms) running Goodyear Eagles, until last service when Zupps Gold Coast rotated the wheels. steering wheel gets the shakes from10kmh up to 70kmh. Took it back and they rotated them back, reckoned they tested and adjusted wheel balance but it is my tyres which now have high spots and are causing the problem.
Anyone else come across this?
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  #49  
Old 11-09-2006, 05:10 AM
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nope never , sorry im no help to you
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  #50  
Old 11-10-2006, 12:32 AM
JoAnn merkur JoAnn merkur is offline
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retired kiwi

Hey Kiwi, I have stopped taking my car to Zupps. they really don't have anyone left who knows the car. suggest you go to "john french motors' up in brisbane.

Joann
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  #51  
Old 11-13-2006, 04:40 PM
Retired Kiwi Retired Kiwi is offline
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Ta muchly

Thanks Joann - will look at doing that. You are right - although they sold some there is no-one there now who seems very knowledgable.
Was in at Honda today and they sais tyre scalloping is not uncommon and to look at changing the tyres so will do as the shake in the steering wheel annoys me when driving an otherwise smooth machine!
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  #52  
Old 11-15-2006, 07:31 AM
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Tightening sequence is important.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Retired Kiwi
Thanks Joann - will look at doing that. You are right - although they sold some there is no-one there now who seems very knowledgable.
Was in at Honda today and they sais tyre scalloping is not uncommon and to look at changing the tyres so will do as the shake in the steering wheel annoys me when driving an otherwise smooth machine!
It is very possible to get high spots on the tyres, but usually if you have good brand tyres on, and you did not run for high mileage with the wheels out of true or balance, then it is unlikely that your tyres should have "high" spots. Anything is possible, but it should not happen.

There is another factor in the wheel/tyre equation you may not be aware of; the SVX is pretty sensitive to how the wheels are tightened up when changes are made.

The absolutely correct mode is to partially tighten the wheels while the car is off the ground. The studs MUST be tightened diagonally, i.e. in the sequence 1,3,5,2 and 4 from the starting position. The wheels should be partially but firmly tightened off the ground, then when the car is lowered to the ground, all studs should be finished to the recommended torque, and again, this MUST be in the sequence noted above.

The recommended torque for the studs is 98-110 N-m or 72-87 ftlbs.

I have watched the best of tyre fitters and garages at work, and 9 out of 10 will fit your wheel to the axle, then proceed to use an air socket at high torque to stitch on your wheel in the sequence 1,2,3,4 and 5. Of course, if the wheel is slightly off when tightening stud 1, the finished result is your wheel rim will be revolving eccentrically on the axle, and the resulting wear will definitely give your tyre flat spots, because the ABS will have a hard job of pulling up the wheel evenly, and one position of the tyre will get worn more than the rest.

Jack up the car yourself, loosen the front wheels, and re-tighten them PROPERLY. If they were wrongly fitted, you will notice a difference straight away.

I no longer trust any garage or wheel fitter unless I am standing over them while they do the job. What works OK for the majority of modern cars with an accurate aligning central spigot does not work well for the SVX at all. It is hard to get this message across to the spanner men, because they are self-styled "experts" and they know it all.

Best of luck with the problem,

Joe
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  #53  
Old 11-15-2006, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retired Kiwi
Thanks Joann - will look at doing that. You are right - although they sold some there is no-one there now who seems very knowledgable.
Was in at Honda today and they sais tyre scalloping is not uncommon and to look at changing the tyres so will do as the shake in the steering wheel annoys me when driving an otherwise smooth machine!
And how can you be a Retired Kiwi?.......

One of my good mates is a Kiwi, and by the sound of him, I'd say he was stuck with it for life.

Do the Aussies have a rehabilitation programme for it, or what?

Joe
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  #54  
Old 12-02-2006, 05:27 AM
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New Problem?

Recently started to notice a 'Judder' when pulling away at a corner?
Doesn't seem to happen when accelerating straight ahead from a standing start, only turning a corner.
Sounds to be coming from the rear.
Does the rear viscous LSD fluid beak down?
As to some of the earlier posts in this thread, I too have an interesting rattle from the exhaust.
Haven't checked the RPM, but is definately a tinny, harmonic sound.
Sounds like two bits of cracked metal touching, but can't seem to find it, I just live with it.
Arthur.
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  #55  
Old 12-02-2006, 08:51 AM
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Arthur

The judder you mention when pulling away on a corner, that usually indicates a problem at the back part of the gearbox, clutches starting to bind up. Run the question past Harvey, he has a good idea of what goes on in the box.

If you check is it putting out codes, that might eliminate a problem with the C solenoid, if no codes showing. Sounds like clutches binding in the rear transfer to me.

Regards the exhaust rattle. Two possibilities. One is the heat shields, they are above the exhaust pipe, between it and the body, in an attempt to keep too much heat soaking into the cabin. If one comes loose, it can rattle or fizzle at certain revs. If you put the car up on a ramp at the exhaust shop, and rev through the range, you may be able to see one rattle, and fix it.

The second possibility is the more likely culprit. The box in the pipe aft of the three cats, this is called a resonator. It has baffle plates inside it. They become loose and fizzle or rattle, usually when you are pulling away, or pulling up to a stop.

Some people cut it out, and put in a straight pipe. Don't do this if you can avoid, it makes the exhaust sound blary. One guy cut his resonator open, tack welded the loose plates, and seam welded it shut again. If you have a friend handy with a welder, and the resonator is rattly, this will fix the problem.

Joe
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  #56  
Old 12-03-2006, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pylon500
Recently started to notice a 'Judder' when pulling away at a corner?
Doesn't seem to happen when accelerating straight ahead from a standing start, only turning a corner.
Sounds to be coming from the rear.
I can't remember if I posted that I have this. But I also have it, and I've been informed that it could also be the rear diff having a little bit of play where it is anchored down, and the binding caused it to 'shudder'. I noticed it about a year ago, and it generally has not developed further. Keep us posted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pylon500

As to some of the earlier posts in this thread, I too have an interesting rattle from the exhaust.
Haven't checked the RPM, but is definately a tinny, harmonic sound.
Sounds like two bits of cracked metal touching, but can't seem to find it, I just live with it.
Arthur.
I am pretty sure that I've stated I've got something like this too...

Mine is a 'light' type at around 1250 through to 1750 rpm (very slight, hard to hear) then it comes back with a vengeance at 2500 and goes to 3000rpm It's loud and sounds like I've got got the worlds largest flying tin insect caught under the car.

(I did have a 'rattle' that was the headshield "bouncing" over the driveshaft therefore related to bumps on the road) - this other one is definitely related to engine RPM and nothing else. I have long suspected it was internal to the exhaust, and Subaru have taken the heatshields apart and found nothing. My father remains convinced it is the heatshields, or at least that I should try starting with them, but I am hoping that a spare exhaust I will have on the way to me soon will identify the source. I'll try replacing piece by piece and when I find the offending article, I'll see about fixing it.

But it is driving me NUCKING FUTS! It is the only thing about my car which I cannot stand, and once it is fixed I will once again breathe easy.



Thganks for your input 'Stentialist. If you have anything further to add, drop us a few lines
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  #57  
Old 12-03-2006, 06:35 AM
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Yeah, McTaff, I agree it is one of THE most annoying problems the SVX throws up.

You are driving around in a rock solid quiet luxury coupe, and pulling into or out of car parks you get this rattle. Makes it sound like a banger!!

Sounds like your problem is loose baffle plates in the resonator.

You might have gathered that I fixed my last car by replacing with a straight pipe. Bad move! The exhaust sounded permanently like you had a hole in it somewhere. A "flat" sound, with no hint of rumble or the power growl that the SVX shows in a subdued way at low revs. I could not recommend it.

If it happens again in Betty, my latest, I will either replace the resonator [comes with a whole section of pipe, so it's not cheap] or else take the tin opener to the rattly resonator box and fix all loose baffles.

Joe
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  #58  
Old 12-04-2006, 01:30 AM
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Guys you need to keep a eye on the tail shaft as it can cause vibration as well.
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