Central locking switch in gear shift area

[Trevor]

Very helpful David, but I am unable to clearly read the diagram. If possible can you please increase the relative size.

Thanks, Trevor.

[Trevor]

Thanks David, all now OK.

The diagram shows a completely different actuating mechanisms, which appear to incorporate a rotary motors with brush gear. This is exemplified by the condensers, (capacitors) included for noise suppression.

The door lock switch switch is poorly drawn as is usual with auto stuff. Is it a three position rocker switch with up and down momentary positions, or a double pole, momentary two position rocker ? The latter would be required to prevent parallel connection of the lock/unlock circuits unless blocking diodes were included.

It is very unfortunate that the topic is now divided between two threads.

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by Trevor

The door lock switch switch is poorly drawn as is usual with auto stuff. Is it a three position rocker switch with up and down momentary positions...

Sorry, I did leave that out of my description -- The switch is "center off." It is indeed three-position, with both of the "ons" being momentary.

There are other errors in the US diagram I posted (all of the diagrams that I have for '94 through '97 look the same): Notice that the SPST switch in the driver's door lock actuator shorts across the passenger actuator's motor. And the wire colors are inconsistent between the Door Lock Timer and the 4-pin connector B30.

Also, the driver's motor is shown with one side connected to ground but the passenger's is not. I wonder if both motors are really connected in parallel, neither side to ground, so that the door lock timer can apply one polarity to lock and the opposite polarity to unlock?

To confuse matters even more, here's the 92/93 diagram for US/Canada:

(tn)

And here's the diagram for Canada on the 94 and 95 diagrams (I suspect this may have carried forward to 96 & 97 too, but is not present on those diagrams):

(tn)

I think my SVX is closer to the US '96 diagram. When my doors are already unlocked and I push the center-console "unlock" button, I hear the door motors try to run again. Likewise when the doors are already locked and I push the "lock" button. In other words, there does not seem to be switches within the actuators that disable the motors from a repeated command.

It is very unfortunate that the topic is now divided between two threads.

You can blame Steve for cross-posting

There are really only 2 useful posts in that other thread currently. If you were to transplant yours, then it would be down to 1 . If Phil followed suit then the time/space/thread continuum would be restored, and we could ask the mods to delete the other thread...

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

94 or 95 cars got this push to shut off central locking switch. It was only ever necessary on the JDM types, which locked up at about 15 km/hr.

It's fascinating to hear about the JDM and other non-US SVXs. Apparently none of the US SVXs have the speed-sensitive automatic locking.

What word or icon is on this pushbutton? Does it still have a small lens on the lower half for an "on" indicator (similar to the rear defrost. cruise, and security buttons)? Is there a picture anywhere (or could you post one)?

They had to do the factory fix, everybody had the same problem, letting passengers out.

Which problem -- 'driver unable to conveniently unlock the passenger's door' or 'driver/passenger simultaneous unlock conflict'? What was the factory fix?

Originally Posted by b3lha

I am somewhat perplexed by the switch in my 94 to disable the auto locking feature. There does not seem to be a switch to re-enable it and the only method I can find of doing so is to disconnect the cars battery.

It sounds like the feature is defective in your car. According to this post (#22) by NZ_SVX in an old thread, the car should automatically re-enable the auto-lock feature once the car slows below 15kph, and will lock the doors the next time the car exceeds that speed.

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by SVXdc

Which problem -- 'driver unable to conveniently unlock the passenger's door' or 'driver/passenger simultaneous unlock conflict'? What was the factory fix?

It sounds like the feature is defective in your car. According to this post (#22) by NZ_SVX in an old thread, the car should automatically re-enable the auto-lock feature once the car slows below 15kph, and will lock the doors the next time the car exceeds that speed.

1)
For me, the problem was a difficulty in letting passengers off. The door was too far away to reach the unlock button that was behind the passenger's shoulder [so they were unable to see where to unlock if they were not familiar with the car]
Lifting the driver door latch activated the microswitch and unlocked everything. However, it also opened the driver door, so you had to open it and re-shut it after letting every passenger off.

Very, very badly thought out and a total pain in the butt.

2)
I would imagine a fault in Phil's car also. At the price he bought it for, he could afford to fix it.

[SVXdc]

Based on the wire colors and some educated guesses from the diagrams for other years, I think the lower portion of the 94-97 diagram should look like this:

(tn)

The changes are all in the lower-right corner of my diagram. I have not confirmed this by looking at the actual wires in the car.

(The "(tn)" is text I've started adding so that people will still have a visible link to click if for some reason the thumbnail image fails to load)

Added: I just noticed that connectors D2 and D22 (going to the actuator modules) are both 4-pin. I wonder if the passenger's module also has a switch like the driver's, just not used.

[Trevor]

Unfortunately, all of the above diagrams would appear of little use to those wishing to retrofit a switch to earlier models which did not have this feature, as the older arrangement, is apparently completely different.

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Unfortunately, all of the above diagrams would appear of little use to those wishing to retrofit a switch to earlier models which did not have this feature, as the older arrangement, is apparently completely different.

The JDMs may be different (particularly the older years). We really need to see the corresponding wiring diagrams to be sure. However, I would be a little surprised if at some point in time they did not converge to having similar wiring as the newer USDMs.

As for the USDMs, all model years do have the two wires which will permit an easy mod for lock and unlock control. Just a matter of finding those wires (anywhere at or between the Door Lock Timer and the Security module), tapping them, and momentarily connecting either of them to ground.

Which JDM model years, if any, have (or have the capability for) the RF-style keyless entry? I would expect that those models/years would thus have the connector for the JDM's counterpart to the USDM's Security module. Perhaps even the same pin-out as the USDM's connector.

[SVXdc]

[I'll go ahead and transplant the other replies into this thread]

In this post in Steve's cross-posted thread in the Down Under area, b3lha wrote:
___________________________________________

Assuming it works the same as the system on my Legacy, it should be easy:

There is a control wire running from a microswitch in the drivers door lock through to the control unit above the glove box. This wire tells the control unit whether the drivers door is locked or unlocked.

When the door is unlocked, the microswitch keeps this wire connected to ground. As you lock the door, the microswitch disconnects the ground from this wire. The control unit senses this and drives both driver and passenger lock motors into the locked position. When you subsequently unlock the door, the microswitch grounds the wire again, the control unit senses this and drives both lock motors into the unlocked position.

So, to lock the doors you simply have to momentarily break this wire, then the lock mechanism will move and the microswitch will keep the wire ungrounded.
Then to unlock them you have to momentarily ground the wire, then the lock mechanism will move and the microswitch will keep the wire grounded.

If you look at the diagram in the thread below, you can see the microswitch in the drivers door actuator.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...2&postcount=14

__________________
1992 Alcyone SVX Version L 4WS
1994 Alcyone SVX S40-II 40th Anniversary Model
1996 Subaru Legacy 2.2 GX Wagon
1988 Subaru Justy J12 SL-II

___________________________________________
(please be sure to attribute the above to b3lha if you quote from this post)
.

[SVXdc]

In this post in Steve's cross-posted thread, Trevor wrote:
___________________________________________

Thank you Phil,

It certainly does appear that there are distinct similarities between models.

After a little investigation in respect ot the JDM system in my car, which did not involve exposing the internal components, I analyse as follows.

(1) The passenger door locking latch is directly controlled manually from the inside sliding locking lever, together with the facility for electrical operation of the same mechanism.

(2) The drivers door locking latch is depends entirely on electrical control and the sliding lever comprises only an electrical switch, with any mechanical connection restricted to the key barrel. [See (5) below.]

(3) The changeover contacts shown in the diagram as associated with both door actuators, are switches which reverse in response to the position of the door locking latch; i.e. through manual actuation, passenger side, electrical actuation drivers side. Without these contacts lock/unlock operation could get out of synchronisation.

(4) If the door handle is not operated by holding up the handle while closing the door, both latches will become electrically unlocked. This would indicate that the door handle switch is somehow incorporated within the control circuitry.

(5) Both key barrels directly mechanically operate their respective inside sliding locking levers.

(6) The normally open contacts shown associated with the drivers side actuator provide the lock/unlock control signal via the door lock timer module. These contacts appear to be operated only by means of the internal drivers door sliding lever. Refer to (2) above.

(7) It would appear probable that contacts ref. (2) are opened to facilitate unlocking and closed for locking, rather than having of a momentary function. The diagram gives no indication of momentary operation as would be expected, but it is accepted that automotive drawings are seldom accurate in respect of electrical symbols.


Queries :-

Absolute confirmation regarding intermittent or closed/open switching as per (7) above, either being possible.

Without digging inside the door I am unable to establish -

(a) That my assumption as per (3) above, is in fact correct.

(b) Whether the motor marked “M” has a rotary or linear motion.

(c) Whether on each application of current, “M” changes the position of the mechanism, from locked/unlocked/locked.

A resistor is shown as being incorporated in series with “M”. This would indicate a means of limiting current when the mechanism is stalled at the end of travel, and thus eliminate the need for limit switching, taking into account the timing module.

(d) The function and situation of the “Key Plate Switch interestingly protected only against a substantial current. Possibly this is associated with remote facilities.

(e) That I may have misconstrued something in respect of what I report as having discovered.

I hope to exactly determine the reason for the malfunction which occurs if both drive and passenger try to simultaneously unlock doors by means of the slide switches. This fault creates a dangerous situation and has always caused me real concern. I have some definite ideas, but require confirmation regarding operation of the actuators (M).

Cheers Phil, Trevor

___________________________________________
(please be sure to attribute the above to Trevor if you quote from this post)
.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by SVXdc

The JDMs may be different (particularly the older years). We really need to see the corresponding wiring diagrams to be sure. However, I would be a little surprised if at some point in time they did not converge to having similar wiring as the newer USDMs.

As for the USDMs, all model years do have the two wires which will permit an easy mod for lock and unlock control. Just a matter of finding those wires (anywhere at or between the Door Lock Timer and the Security module), tapping them, and momentarily connecting either of them to ground.

Which JDM model years, if any, have (or have the capability for) the RF-style keyless entry? I would expect that those models/years would thus have the connector for the JDM's counterpart to the USDM's Security module. Perhaps even the same pin-out as the USDM's connector.

The two wires referred to terminate at 5 & 6 on the Door Lock Timer. In the diagram covering the older arrangement, these wires run to an Electronic module, rather than a switch. The Australian diagram I have, shows no Timer or Electronic module.

If anyone wishes to play, go to 5/6 on the timer, but in no way hold me responsible.

[SVXdc]

Now I can reply in this thread to Trevor's post...

I experimented in my own car. Here are the differences I found:

Originally Posted by Trevor

(2) The drivers door locking latch is depends entirely on electrical control and the sliding lever comprises only an electrical switch, with any mechanical connection restricted to the key barrel.

I removed the fuse for the Door Lock Timer module, which in turn powers the door lock motors. The driver's door locked and unlocked normally using either the lock slider (behind driver's shoulder) or the key from outside. After closing and locking the door, opening via the inside door handle unlocked and opened the door.

This makes sense -- you'd want to be able to enter and exit even if power has died.

(4) If the door handle is not operated by holding up the handle while closing the door, both latches will become electrically unlocked. This would indicate that the door handle switch is somehow incorporated within the control circuitry.

Again, with the DLT fuse removed, when I opened the driver's door, locked the lever, and closed the door without holding up the outside handle, the door mechanically unlocked (the slider went up) as the door latched closed.

I think it is only the driver's door lock status switch that commands the passenger's actuator to do likewise (via the DLT module).

Judging from the wiring diagrams, the door handle switch only serves to light the outside keyhole light (on the USDMs, at least).

(d) The function and situation of the “Key Plate Switch interestingly protected only against a substantial current.

The diagram is misleading. That same fuse (#22) also provides power for many other circuits, including: power antenna, automatic seat belts, AT shift lock solenoids, hazard lights, and key-in-ignition-while-door-open chime.

For some reason the security module gets the key plate signal also. This is interesting because the switch contact closes after inserting the key by only a slight amount. It does not guarantee that the key is one that belongs to the particular car.

I hope to exactly determine the reason for the malfunction which occurs if both driver and passenger try to simultaneously unlock doors by means of the slide switches.

I could not duplicate the malfunction on my car, even after many attempts (after having replaced the DLT fuse).

On your car, Trevor, it sounds like there is a conflict when both the actuator motor and the door lock slider try to unlock the passenger door at the same time.

Could someone with a USDM 92 or 93 test and report their findings?


We might be able to answer some of your other questions if we can dig up pictures of the doors with the inside panels removed. I'll bet there are a few lurking in the lockers by now.

[Trevor]

Thanks David,

The plot thickens and it is obvious that there are several variations to the theme.

I agree that my problem is associated with timing and interlocking but so far a wiring diagram has not come to hand. I admit that I should take both door panels off and investigate, but that option offers little excitement.

You mention a door lock timer fuse. This offers an interesting possibility in respect of the experimental by grounding of terminals 5/6. The fuse could be removed and a meter inserted to establish normal operating currents. The smallest possible fuse link, preferably quick blow, could the be fitted by way of increased protection, during testing.

Best of all, someone with a parts car may be happy to take a risk, which would not appear to be that great.

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by Trevor

The two wires referred to terminate at 5 & 6 on the Door Lock Timer. ...

The pins are 5 and 8 (not 6) on my diagrams.

Admittedly the diagram that John/Suby_Fan posted is harder to read, but I'm fairly sure they are the same pin numbers there. The DLT module on that diagram has no pin 6.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by SVXdc

The pins are 5 and 8 (not 6) on my diagrams.

Admittedly the diagram that John posted is harder to read, but I'm fairly sure they are the same pin numbers there. The DLT module on that diagram has no pin 6.

Having had a closer look I think you could very well be correct. Phil's image is hard to define and as I gather you have originals you are best able to decide. Do colour codes offer any extra confirmation ? Given that I/You/we are sticking our necks out.