intake manifold

Does anybody know how to take off
the intake Manifold? i took off all the 10-12 mm bolts
i could find. and it wouldn't come off. i see some
hoses and pipes under it but they don't look attached.
i did find that 14mm bolt by the A/C pump hmmm
i'm dumbfounded.

[Beav]

Remove collector cover.
Disconnect throttle and cruise control cables.
Disconnect engine harness connectors.
Remove female harness connectors from bracket
Disconnect auxillary air control valve electrical connector.
Disconnect two (2) coolant hoses from throttle chamber.
Disconnect auxillary air control valve hose from throttle body.
Disconnect PCV valve hose from valve.
Remove R.H. PCV valve from valve cover.
Disconnect EGR control hoses from intake manifold.
Remove EGR pipe cover and EGR pipe.
Disconnect power steering switch electrical connector.
Disconnect power brake booster hose from intake manifold.
Disconnect fuel hoses from fittings at fuel rail.
Remove drive belt cover and drive belts.
Disconnect alternator "B"/"+" connector from alternator.
Remove alternator harness cover fastener.
Remove alternator.
Remove A/C belt idler pulley. Remove A/C bracket fasteners and move barcket and compressor foward to facilitate removal of intake manifold fasteners.
Remove intake manifold fasteners and remove manifold.


I hope you're not doing this for the fun of it, I'd start worrying about you if you were.

Jeez, Super
I hope you just don't have a lot of time on your hands..

Actually i am just doin it kinda for the fun of it but
also there is a pretty thick film of dirt and junk i want
to clean. also it will gimmie more room to work on
my twin turbos..

[immortal_suby]

Is there a torque spec and sequence for installing the manifold?

[svx_commuter]

Originally posted by SuperRuu
Actually i am just doin it kinda for the fun of it but
also there is a pretty thick film of dirt and junk i want
to clean. also it will gimmie more room to work on
my twin turbos..

Do you have any pictures of the TURBO"S?

[Beav]

Originally posted by immortal_suby
Is there a torque spec and sequence for installing the manifold?

17-20 ft lb - no sequence

as of now i don't have the turbos in hand
but as soon as i do i'll post pics and a comentary
about it..

does anyone know how close a super charger has to be to the engine? cause there is a huge mass of room under the battery and if that could be modified, taken out, something I'm betting you could fit one there, if not that at least a turbo.

[svx_commuter]

A super charger mount to the engine because it needs drive belts. Turbo chargers mount to the exhaust because they use the hot exhaust exhaust gas for power.

thanks for the info. probobly have to get an ugly shaped hood if it ever were to happen

probobly have to get an ugly shaped hood if it ever were to happen

Man it'd be funny to see an SVX all street-rodded up with a big hole cut in the hood and a massive air scoop sticking out of it.. maybe like one of those old drawings of the monster with the big teeth and tounge leaning out the window of some obscene muscle car.. heheh

-a

[immortal_suby]

I removed the intake this weekend and installed new knocksensors, PCV valve, and intake gaskets.
Loosening the AC compressor is not needed - you can get the the left front intake bolt with an open end wrench.
The power brake booster hose does not need to be removed - it is actually not connected to the intake.
The whole job took about 5 hours which included beer breaks and some time with carb and choke cleaner on the intake. - it was pretty ugly in there but this was a good chance to clean it up.
There was a ton of thick black gunk in the opening for the EGR system on the intake - I had to scrape it out with a small screwdriver.
Most of the small hoses under the intake were brittle and cracked when trying to put them back on- plan on having some extra hose to replace these. I think I replaced 3 of them at about 6" long each. It must relate to whatever it is they carry as some were fine but others were like glass.
Make sure everything is cool when you do this or you will burn the back of your hand.
Leave the new intake gaskets off until you have all the electrical connectors and hoses fitted and then slip the gaskets in or you may damage them yanking the intake around trying to get all the hoses connected.
The PCV was so tight I still needed to use a crows foot to get it off even with the intake removed.
I would probably not do this just for fun - although putting in a tranny was harder this was just a real PITA .
Both of my old knock sensors had the plastic housings cracked.

Beav - thanks again for the install how-to and advice.

[strange179]

I have now done this job about 4 or 5 times so I've got the procedure down pretty well. It all depends if you are removing just the plenum or the plenum and the intake manifolds. if you are just removing the plenum you don't need to remove the AC compressor. What you do have to do is remove the fuel pipes from the fuel rails and the EGR pipe from the plenum. Almost all the vacuum hoses will come off with the plenum and the metal pipes. The larger hoses that go to the "F" connector near the rear of the block are a bit tough to remove but it's doable. Be careful putting it all back together because the metal pipes bend easily.
Good luck,
Jay

[Beav]

Originally posted by immortal_suby
There was a ton of thick black gunk in the opening for the EGR system on the intake - I had to scrape it out with a small screwdriver.

The EGR passage could have been plugged to the point that it wasn't flowing sufficiently. Besides reducing NOx the EGR allows more advanced timing as it inhibits pre-ignition (O.K. I know this is a simplified version of reality, I'm not wanting to start a diatribe of theory, etc.) You may find that your mileage will actually improve if that was the case. In other words if the EGR wasn't flowing properly the engine may have been more readily prone to knocking, the sensors detect it and retard the timing, performance and mileage suffering as a result.

I'm curious to hear how this pans out...