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  #16  
Old 07-05-2005, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benebob
Yeah, my e brake kinda came apart too quickly to pay attention to where the weird parts go. As for the abs sensor I soaked it a day or so with pb blaster then first I used a punch to wack the mounting bracket around (then a screw driver to move it back). Did this a few times then used the punch very lightly on the shiney sides to slowly work it out. Did that only after trying to then pry it out with a small pry bar from the back only to have the bracket bend.
ya, this is a really huge *****. I am soaking it again, hopefuly i can get at ti a little more. This is just taking way to much time. Time to bust out the torch for the front lower control arm. ITs not moving at all.
phil
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  #17  
Old 07-06-2005, 01:16 PM
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I used a 1/2 in breaker bar and just jumped on it. You will need a wrench of some kind on the other side be it nut or bolt. I stepped on it and then used my weight to apply the right amount of pressure to break it loose. I hope this helps. A little heat never hurt anyone either, just be careful of the bushing and the gas tank.

Tom
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  #18  
Old 07-06-2005, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomssvx
I used a 1/2 in breaker bar and just jumped on it. You will need a wrench of some kind on the other side be it nut or bolt. I stepped on it and then used my weight to apply the right amount of pressure to break it loose. I hope this helps. A little heat never hurt anyone either, just be careful of the bushing and the gas tank.

Tom
Yeah that would help.. If I wanna break the breaker bar or strip the head of the bolt. I've had nearly 5 feet of pipe on it and alls it does is bend the pipe and mishape the bolt.
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  #19  
Old 07-06-2005, 01:53 PM
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breaking tools is the name of the game. O broke a 1/2in Snap-on breaker bar with my bare hands try to pull a pitman arm on a jeep.

Tom
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  #20  
Old 07-06-2005, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomssvx
breaking tools is the name of the game. O broke a 1/2in Snap-on breaker bar with my bare hands try to pull a pitman arm on a jeep.

Tom
I had a KO list going when I did my struts
I think it went something like 4 sockets, 2 breaker bars, a 1/2" dr rachet, and a torque wrench (well the torque wrench fell apart in my hands, it wasn't really in use at the time).

Just incase your curious, a torque wrench is "not a hand tool"...atleast that's what Sears told me when I went to get a replacement.
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  #21  
Old 07-06-2005, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurgundyBeast
a torque wrench is "not a hand tool"...atleast that's what Sears told me when I went to get a replacement.
I gotta agree with them there, its a measuring instrument.

How many people here have reducers going from 3/4 all the way down to 1/4? I've used 'em all at once too

Doug
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  #22  
Old 07-06-2005, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohrds
I gotta agree with them there, its a measuring instrument.

How many people here have reducers going from 3/4 all the way down to 1/4? I've used 'em all at once too

Doug
doug, what are you doing this saturday im in dire need of someone te help with my spindle woes!
phil
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  #23  
Old 07-07-2005, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phast SVX
doug, what are you doing this saturday im in dire need of someone to help with my spindle woes!
phil
Sorry bud, I'm booked with family stuff this weekend. However, If it comes down to it, you could have one of the hubs off of the parts car. I still owe you a favor for the front diff you gave me years ago.

Doug
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  #24  
Old 07-07-2005, 03:28 PM
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Bob,

I'm in the salt belt as well and did two of these jobs: Legacy and SVX.

Firstly, you can forget about reusing the long link bolt. It has become "one" with the metal sleeves that're inside the bushings. So, plan on purchsing one link bolt, nut and two bushings Sorry!

Then, borrow/rent a Mo Fo strong impact gun and buzz it off. This prolly won't work, then use a sawsall, cut the link bolt and remove it out of the vehicle.

If you did manage to ruin the bushings, then they'll need to be replaced. Unfortuantely, you'll need to remove the arms and this can pose yet another problem. Since you're so corroded at this end, imagine the same thing at the chassis end! So, plan on replacing the bolts and nuts at that end too. Note: there's a camber adjusting washer at the end of one of the arms. So, be sure to remember it's position before removing it.

If all of this sounds like not your cup of tea, then drop it off at the dealer and bend over!

Cheers,

Ali
'92
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  #25  
Old 07-07-2005, 03:37 PM
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Ali, you're so optimistic.
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  #26  
Old 07-07-2005, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alia176
Bob,

I'm in the salt belt as well and did two of these jobs: Legacy and SVX.

Firstly, you can forget about reusing the long link bolt. It has become "one" with the metal sleeves that're inside the bushings. So, plan on purchsing one link bolt, nut and two bushings Sorry!

Then, borrow/rent a Mo Fo strong impact gun and buzz it off. This prolly won't work, then use a sawsall, cut the link bolt and remove it out of the vehicle.

If you did manage to ruin the bushings, then they'll need to be replaced. Unfortuantely, you'll need to remove the arms and this can pose yet another problem. Since you're so corroded at this end, imagine the same thing at the chassis end! So, plan on replacing the bolts and nuts at that end too. Note: there's a camber adjusting washer at the end of one of the arms. So, be sure to remember it's position before removing it.

If all of this sounds like not your cup of tea, then drop it off at the dealer and bend over!

Cheers,

Ali
'92

Pathetic design! I'll just put it back together and take it to my mechanic on the car. Its cheaper.
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  #27  
Old 07-07-2005, 04:04 PM
ilsegretosvx
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I'm in the same boat. The shop said they would not work on it because they would end up breaking so many parts. (NJ car). They were only able to do one side. So now Im in a search of of trailing arms and bushings bolts etc.....All of this to replace the rear bearings
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  #28  
Old 07-07-2005, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benebob
Pathetic design! I'll just put it back together and take it to my mechanic on the car. Its cheaper.

I wouldn't blame the design; blame your state for using the crap all over the road during winter! I never had this problem until I moved to the Midwest.
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  #29  
Old 07-07-2005, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
Ali, you're so optimistic.
David,

Ain't I though?

This is why I try to buy all of my vehicles from the West. It sickens me to see how rust (cancer) can attack these vehicles in the salt belt.

Ali
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  #30  
Old 07-07-2005, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilsegretosvx
I'm in the same boat. The shop said they would not work on it because they would end up breaking so many parts. (NJ car). They were only able to do one side. So now Im in a search of of trailing arms and bushings bolts etc.....All of this to replace the rear bearings
I suggest that you source all parts yourself then take them in the car to your mechanic. It's easier for the mechanic to know that he doesn't have to salvage parts. This way, it's probably faster just to cut parts off and then replace them with new parts. And make sure to have the mechanic to apply "anti seize" to all everything if he doesn't already. If you doubt that he did that on one side, then I'd remove the link bolt and nut, then apply antisieze to all threaded parts and everywhere where the bushing is contacting the link bolt. You'll thank yourself later when you have to change the bearing again

Remember, antiseize is your friend

Ali
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