Rust Removal Time!

[B 4 You]

Alright, I'm attacking this rust and nipping it in the bud. I know the process and have all the tools needed (still need paint, but it's in small discrete areas so I'm not going to be a huge stickler over matching it 100%), but most of it is under the side panels on the doors. Obviously those need to come off. Is there a how-to to remove them? I don't know how to attack them, and I don't want to break anything. Also, I'm assuming the brackets inside have rusted away as well, would anyone be able to supply the part numbers? I will be taking off all 4 of the fiberglass panels. And no, there are no holes from the inside, I've removed all 4 inside panels to check to make sure. The driver's door has some rust on the inside but it's not bad. Any other suggestions, shoot away!

[Marcus]

Hi, maybe you can find something by conducting a search (e.g. for repair on window opener). I only took the pannels from the doors off. To do so you need to remove the inner trim.
There is a screw you need to remove, which is hidden by a plastic cover (beyond the door release lever) the cover can be removed with a flatbed screwdriver. Then there are two more screws beyond the textile cover at the bottom of the little bay behind the inner door handle. And finaly a screw openly visible next to the A-column. All other fixing points are clips, just pull carefully. Then you need to remove a plastic foil to get access to the holes in the metall door inner side. They give access to the nuts (about 5, dont know for sure), which keep the outer pannel in place. In addition there are clips. The clips broke, when I removed the pannel. Good luck! (This far I did not find a way to stop the rusting issue, I think its based on a constructional flaw.)

Marcus

[B 4 You]

I did do a few searches but couldn't come up with anything. I have taken the door and rear inside panels off a handful of times, so that's no issue for me. So just those 5 bolts inside and it should pop off? I bet the rear are similar. If anyone else has part numbers or some pointers, shoot away

[svxcess]

Go here.

http://www.phantomotaku.com/SVX/MSA5...d_exterior.pdf

Pages 102-104 have the complete side garnish and rear garnish removal procedures


Here is the component overview:



Download and save this particular manual. I covers every body components and how to remove, repair, replace, etc.

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[B 4 You]

Thanks John, that's the exact picture I remembered from a while back, just couldn't find it. I'll start attacking this today, and maybe make a how-to since
There isn't one yet

[SVX_MY_BABY]

If you have rust behind the plastic door panels you can almost guarantee that the same is happening behind the rear quarter panels. You remove those by undoing the fasteners behind the rear seat panels below the window. Very good directions in the manual mentioned above. Be careful not to twist them or you will have trouble with fit when replacing. is the hold the warp.

[redlightningsvx]

Mike, Eric and myself came to the conclusion years ago the door rust is formed by the horrible design flaw of Subaru adding foam strips behind the garnish which in turn holds water to rot the door out. The best fix is to remove the plastic panels, fix the rust right, remove ALL foam strips as you dont need them, and I put undercoating on the metal bar for assurance. That's the only way to fix it.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

The best fix is to remove the plastic panels, fix the rust right, remove ALL THE foam strips as you don't need them, and I put undercoating on the metal bar for assurance. That's the only way to fix it.

Once repainted and reassembled, I would probably run a thin bead of clear RTV sealant between the side garnish and the door. Just like caulking a door; let the water run over top instead of inbetween. Works with windshields, tail lights, etc.

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[SVX_MY_BABY]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Once repainted and reassembled, I would probably run a thin bead of clear RTV sealant between the side garnish and the door. Just like caulking a door; let the water run over top instead of inbetween. Works with windshields, tail lights, etc.

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How would you ever get the panel off in future in the event you needed another repair?

[redlightningsvx]

Don't even run silicone, just nothing. I removed them when I painted mine years ago and its fine. The seal does nothing but hold water.

[dannmarr]

Originally Posted by SVX_MY_BABY

How would you ever get the panel off in future in the event you needed another repair?

All you need to do is to run a razor across it. Personally I would not seal it.

[B 4 You]

The plan all along was to prime it and then absolutely smother it with spray on undercoat. What does it matter? I'll never see it. I'm going the door panels and the rear panels. I don't think I'm going to even worry about the little panels in front of the door, they seem fine. I can hear a crunch when I press on the side panels. I didn't know about the foam, I'll definitely throw that away.

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by B 4 You

The plan all along was to prime it and then absolutely smother it with spray on undercoat. What does it matter? I'll never see it. I'm going the door panels and the rear panels. I don't think I'm going to even worry about the little panels in front of the door, they seem fine. I can hear a crunch when I press on the side panels. I didn't know about the foam, I'll definitely throw that away.

Fenders are easily replaceable anyway and typically aren't rusty when the doors and/or quarters are. Though I have seen a few with rust on REALLY rusty cars. Just be sure to get down to bare metal anywhere there is rust or else it will just come back and be much worse by the time it's actually noticeable.

Oh, but be sure to get the new metal pieces. They're really cheap anyway and there's no way of cleaning them up effectively. And if you did, you'd spend a hell of a lot more than $25 worth of time on each piece or whatever they are new. I'm not kidding, they really are dirt cheap.

[SVX_MY_BABY]

Took my driver's side door garnish off to figure out why it isn't staying in place at the bottom. Door is solid, but the panel has a definite curve to it when off. It flares at both ends.

Any Ideas on how to correct this? I was wondering if some 2 sided tape like 3M 2-way adhesion tape, vertically near the bottom might work to hold it snug. Am going to replace the retainer bar thing at the top that bolts & snaps onto the door.

Is this black stuff supposed to be here? Or is it leftover from a previous paint job hack? It's hard and brittle like plastic. Any idea on how to remove it if it's not supposed to be there?

[SVX_MY_BABY]

To answer my own question and let others know; that black blob is panel bond. The shop that painted the car used it as an adhesive to try to hold in the garnish, which was incorrectly installed. It obviously failed. The only way to remove it is to GENTLY heat it and slip something wide behind it to pop it off as it softens. (A plastic putty knife or similar.) Get things too hot and the paint will be damaged.