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  #1  
Old 08-21-2008, 05:19 PM
glaze148 glaze148 is offline
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Question Rust Proofing

Just shipped my rust free 92 LSL Touring to the East.
How does one rust proof a car???
Thanks,
Steve
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  #2  
Old 08-21-2008, 05:32 PM
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Re: Rust Proofing

Rust Bullet. 2 Layers.
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  #3  
Old 08-21-2008, 07:55 PM
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redlightningsvx redlightningsvx is offline
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Re: Rust Proofing

The underneath of the car already has good rust proofing. The things I would do is reroute the sunroof drain hoses past the rear wheel wells straight to the outside of the car on the ground. This helps prevent the common quarter panel rust. Another good spot for rust is along the lower door cladding. I would say run a piece of 3M moulding tape along the top of it. I think there should be one on there all ready but it's old. That's all I can think of.
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  #4  
Old 08-22-2008, 09:16 AM
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Re: Rust Proofing

The major problem with the northern and Northeastern cars is that owners do not wash them completely (including under the car) often enough during the winter with salty roads. This would greatly reduce much of the rust problem.

Lee
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  #5  
Old 08-22-2008, 04:14 PM
maxg765 maxg765 is offline
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Re: Rust Proofing

Quote:
Originally Posted by redlightningsvx View Post
The underneath of the car already has good rust proofing. The things I would do is reroute the sunroof drain hoses past the rear wheel wells straight to the outside of the car on the ground. This helps prevent the common quarter panel rust. Another good spot for rust is along the lower door cladding. I would say run a piece of 3M moulding tape along the top of it. I think there should be one on there all ready but it's old. That's all I can think of.
Hello

Relocating the sunroof drains? Just wondering a little more about this. Looks like I too I will be using my SVX (97 Ebony)through the winter months. If it does happen I would like to take care of it as best I can. Is this hard to do? Is it reversible afterwards if one should want to return it to the factory setup?

Thanks

Max
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  #6  
Old 08-23-2008, 05:13 AM
glaze148 glaze148 is offline
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Re: Rust Proofing

Thanks everyone. I'll look into all of the suggestions.
Steve
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  #7  
Old 08-23-2008, 09:53 AM
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Re: Rust Proofing

Quote:
Originally Posted by lhopp77 View Post
The major problem with the northern and Northeastern cars is that owners do not wash them completely (including under the car) often enough during the winter with salty roads. This would greatly reduce much of the rust problem.

Lee
Totally agree with this. People laugh at me when I was/wax my car before a snowstorm. Guess who has no rust after winter
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  #8  
Old 08-23-2008, 08:04 PM
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redlightningsvx redlightningsvx is offline
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Re: Rust Proofing

All you'll be doing is adding more hose to the existing ine to make it long enough to drip water to the ground instead of pooling in the fenderwell.



Quote:
Originally Posted by maxg765 View Post
Hello

Relocating the sunroof drains? Just wondering a little more about this. Looks like I too I will be using my SVX (97 Ebony)through the winter months. If it does happen I would like to take care of it as best I can. Is this hard to do? Is it reversible afterwards if one should want to return it to the factory setup?

Thanks

Max
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94' Barcelona Red w/ Tricoat black 2-tone AWD Ls -Sold
Mods:AWD conversion/4.44 swap by Budfreak, Custom red interior lights, Custom Satin black dash, Power mode switch, Cold air intake, Permecool tranny filter,Sony xplode 10" sub, Sony xplode 1000w amp, Blitz in-line driver, DDM Tuning 6000k HID's, New paint job/body work by me, 97' Grill, QC shift kit, 17'' MB Motoring rims, 15&20 min mod, front & rear urethane swaybar bushings, Custom fiberglass sub box, Custom red led a/c control unit, perrin lightweight crank pulley, Black wrinkle finish powdercoated intake manifold w/ clear hoses , 02' outback heated/power black leather seats
Soon to come:Fiberglass hood, upholster ALL suede to black leather
Past subies:

92' Pearl White/black top LS-L-SOLD
96' Legacy Outback-TOTALED
99' Legacy Outback Limited 30th anniversary edition-TOTALED
98' Forester L -Totaled
Other toys:
99' Forester S -WRX brake upgrade, soon an 04 wrx motor swap
06' B9 Tribeca-Stock
1982' Yamaha xj650 Maxim
Mods:
work in progress
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  #9  
Old 08-24-2008, 02:58 PM
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benebob benebob is offline
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Re: Rust Proofing

1. Don't put on aftermarket rustproofing crap as Subarus rust from the inside out so most of the snake oils they sell simply keeps water from getting out.
2. Wash your car very often, in snow don't park in a heated garage.
3. Add a little kerosene to your wash water as it'll form a nice little oil barrier on the metal.
4. Don't fix under body oil leaks.
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  #10  
Old 08-25-2008, 08:05 AM
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Re: Rust Proofing

Quote:
Originally Posted by benebob View Post
1. Don't put on aftermarket rustproofing crap as Subarus rust from the inside out so most of the snake oils they sell simply keeps water from getting out.
2. Wash your car very often, in snow don't park in a heated garage.
3. Add a little kerosene to your wash water as it'll form a nice little oil barrier on the metal.
4. Don't fix under body oil leaks.
Hate to disagree with your opening statement benebob. Most rust proofings do as you say and trap the water and salt against the metal, but not all. That is a problem with wax & tar/plastic coatings. When the coating is scraped or cracks it allows moisture in which is then trapped.

"Rust Check" brand and "Krown" brand work differently by staying liquid and displacing the moisture. They are the only ones here endorsed by the Canadian Automobile Association. The product is hard on some of the soft rubber gaskets which will swell after many years, but they are replaceable. My 92 has been done annually & is rust free. It's an annual application & costs about $100.00. Good insurance.

As an aside Honda Motors has their world corrosion test center here because of our "known" destruction by corrosion of cars.
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  #11  
Old 08-25-2008, 09:24 AM
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benebob benebob is offline
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Re: Rust Proofing

Personally I wouldn't trust a product that is sold only at Kmarts in all of PA, nor would I trust it just because they gave money to the CAA. My guess is that rust check is nothing more than a kerosene based product which for $100 buys you quite a bit of kero even at today's prices. If it was as good as you say then it would have a huge dealer network.

Now if they want to provide a 100% warranty for the appearance of even a niggling of surface rust then sure I'd pay 100% for their snake oil. If not buy yourself a gallon of kero and use a method that's been around the classic community for 75 years.

Good luck with your product but proper mant. goes much further than any spray on rust crap ever will. Maybe you're just rust free because you, well, take care of your baby!


Quote:
Originally Posted by SVX_MY_BABY View Post
Hate to disagree with your opening statement benebob. Most rust proofings do as you say and trap the water and salt against the metal, but not all. That is a problem with wax & tar/plastic coatings. When the coating is scraped or cracks it allows moisture in which is then trapped.

"Rust Check" brand and "Krown" brand work differently by staying liquid and displacing the moisture. They are the only ones here endorsed by the Canadian Automobile Association. The product is hard on some of the soft rubber gaskets which will swell after many years, but they are replaceable. My 92 has been done annually & is rust free. It's an annual application & costs about $100.00. Good insurance.

As an aside Honda Motors has their world corrosion test center here because of our "known" destruction by corrosion of cars.
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  #12  
Old 08-25-2008, 10:09 AM
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Re: Rust Proofing

Quote:
Originally Posted by benebob View Post
4. Don't fix under body oil leaks.
+1

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  #13  
Old 08-25-2008, 10:22 AM
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Re: Rust Proofing

There is a huge dealer network in Canada for both Krown and Rust Check which also has head office run outlets. I'm talking dealer applied product, not cans of spray bomb. They also offer a repair warranty to the value of the car if has been done annually from the time it was put into service, for what thats worth.

They are not petroleum product.

That said, for me, it's my experience over time and the fact that if you speak with body shops and mechanics in these parts they are virtually all in agreement that vehicles treated with these two products have much better body and undercarriage integrity than those that aren't.

It is also interesting to note that they will not treat some cars (e.g. newer Saabs) or only partially spray them, as they work with the car manufactures to determine correct application methods for each model which will not damage the vehicle.
( In the case of Saab their electricals are routed in such a way that insertion of the spray wands may cause damage.)
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  #14  
Old 08-26-2008, 08:59 AM
zavikan zavikan is offline
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Re: Rust Proofing

hmmm up in the north country of NH, Alot of the shops spray linseed oil all over the underside. Sounds like the kero approach, but possibly longer lasting?
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  #15  
Old 08-26-2008, 05:57 PM
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Re: Rust Proofing

Considering I took this from their website and nearly all mineral oils are petroleum based I would tend to disagree with that. I'm not knocking it at all btw just offering a cheaper similar solution that is time tested.

"The main ingredients in Rust Check products are highly refined (Purified) mineral oils. These oils are similar to those used in personal care products such as medicinal mineral oils, baby oils, and cosmetics" Rust check website in the enviromental section!

Quote:
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They are not petroleum product.
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