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  #16  
Old 02-04-2008, 01:45 PM
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Phil's already ahead of you, thats what he posted just 10 mins before you asked for it




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  #17  
Old 02-04-2008, 09:21 PM
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01. Front and rear swaybar bushings LINK TO THREAD
02. Rear swaybar end (stabilizer link) bushings (OT) INSTRUCTIONS
03. fifteen minute / $15.00 mod (OT) INSTRUCTIONS
04. Alternator wiring mod (updated) UPDATED INSTRUCTIONS POST 5
05. Rear Camber Bolts
06. Transmission Filter (Summit Racing)
07. 9005 headlight mod (okay, so they're not OT's HIDs....) INSTRUCTIONS IN POST 15
08. Transmission Resistor Replacement (OT)
09. Filled Transmission mount
10. Filled "dog bone" mount
11. Debadging your tailbar Thread Here
12. Power Mode Switch http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39133
13. Stop sunvisor drooping for <$2 How To
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  #18  
Old 02-06-2008, 01:44 PM
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Lightbulb How's about...

...a 10 oz. bottle of LUBEGUARD (red) the next time you change out your tranny fluid?
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  #19  
Old 02-06-2008, 05:01 PM
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Small Car shift Kit???
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  #20  
Old 02-06-2008, 05:11 PM
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Not!.....................

Quote:
Originally Posted by pearlm30 View Post
Small Car shift Kit???
Small car shift kit is Not necessary or even a good thing for a SVX!
Better to keep it the way it was designed. The harder shifting from the shift kit may even be detrimental to the transmission.

Keeping a top quality cool clean transmission fluid with a transmission cooler installed gives us the best chance of trouble free miles. Of course we need a transmission filter.
Not pushing the car to the limit "because we can" also doesn't hurt!
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  #21  
Old 02-08-2008, 12:54 AM
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01. Front and rear swaybar bushings LINK TO THREAD
02. Rear swaybar end (stabilizer link) bushings (OT) INSTRUCTIONS
03. fifteen minute / $15.00 mod (OT) INSTRUCTIONS
04. Alternator wiring mod (updated) UPDATED INSTRUCTIONS POST 5
05. Rear Camber Bolts
06. Transmission Filter (Summit Racing)
07. 9005 headlight mod (okay, so they're not OT's HIDs....) INSTRUCTIONS IN POST 15
08. Transmission Resistor Replacement (OT)
09. Filled Transmission mount
10. Filled "dog bone" mount
11. Debadging your tailbar Thread Here
12. Power Mode Switch http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39133
13. Stop sunvisor drooping for <$2 How To
14. Poor-man's reinforced brake linesThread

I think I'm going to repost this in "Mod Mania," as it would seem more appropriate.
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  #22  
Old 02-08-2008, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwren View Post
Small car shift kit is Not necessary or even a good thing for a SVX!
Better to keep it the way it was designed. The harder shifting from the shift kit may even be detrimental to the transmission.
Exactly kwren.

What is more normally the dropping resistor introduces a second series of current pulses applied in parallel with the pulse modulated control signal operating line pressure control, solenoid valve "A". These shorter pulses are applied during the off cycles and are timed to check the travel of the armature as it reaches the closed position, thus reducing both shock and noise. These secondary parallel signals in effect, “round off” the closing period and reduce the closing shock.

It will be appreciated that increasing the resistance in the circuit, or opening the circuit by omitting the dropping resistor, has two outcomes. Firstly the relative electrical off time is increased, thus increasing the line pressure and therefore makes shifts more abrupt. Importantly as an undesirable second issue, shock loads applied to the valve are increased.
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  #23  
Old 02-08-2008, 03:48 AM
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The continuing recommendations regarding the badly named modification, “Alternator Upgrade” are a cause of real concern, and in the interest of members I feel duty bound to comment on this issue. The following is a write up I prepared some time ago. It is presented in good faith, on a take it or leave it basis.


The Alternator (wiring) “upgrade” ? i.e. extra added parallel wiring.

Look for the cause rather than by passing a fault. Making modifications is not the way to fix “crap connections“ in the charging system.

If you are running a special alternator capable of delivering increased current you are in a different ball park, but you should think very seriously about the need to incorporate a suitable fuse link installed as close to the battery as possible.

It must be appreciated that the alternator wiring mod as originally suggested, by passes all alternator over current protection, as has been incorporated in the original set up for very good reason. There has been a thread recorded where this factor appears to have directly caused alternator damage.

In the event of a front end prang and a short circuit at the alternator, you could end up with an engine compartment fire, as this circuit is capable of passing a very high fault current thus producing intense heat. Should you make an insurance claim and your insurer’s assessors are on the ball, you will be out of luck in a big way through having removed OEM protection.

Provided the original alternator wiring, grounds, and all connections are in good original condition, there should be no problem. If a problem does exist and the original wiring or connections are suspect, it is a simple matter to locate exactly where there is resistance in the circuit, including the ground points, which could be dropping the output voltage from the alternator.

Connecting a volt meter across a resistance/conductor measures the voltage dropped as current passes via the resistance/conductor, as well as the associated connections, if the test probes are in contact with the first point in the circuit, e.g. the terminal bolt, screw, battery post ot whatever. With the suspect circuit under full load, a volt meter test probe against each end of the suspect wire or connection will accurately register any voltage drop. After the first check with the meter set at the circuit voltage as a matter of meter safety, the lowest range available can be finally selected.

There can be an advantage in having a small resistance between the alternator and the battery, as this can be a form of over current protection for the alternator. What is more any small voltage drop will not effect the as designed alternator output voltage, as the electronic regulator senses battery voltage directly, via a separate pilot wire. It could be that Subaru designers had this in mind, as it is hard to accept that they were trying to save on a few strands of copper, or were ignorant in respect of basic Ohm's law.


Information recorded in the how too section:-

The long term test results of the alternator wiring upgrade I did about 8 months ago. The electrical system has performed flawlessly since that mod.

I ordered a custom made digital plug-in voltmeter, with green numbers (they now are offered only in red) from Nordskog Performance
http://www.nordskogperformance.net/m9025.html

Besides constantly monitoring the voltage, it has a button which recalls the highest voltage measured. After 2 weeks in the car, monitoring various loads, here are the results:

Start-up voltage in the morning, cold engine: 14.5 volts
Normal highway speeds, stereo on, no A/C: 14.1 volts
Normal highway speeds, high electrical load (high and low beams, stereo, rear defroster, air conditioning): 13.8 volts
700 rpm idle, no load: 13.9 volts
700 rpm idle, high electrical load: 13.5 volts.

My last test was turn on everything that could possibly be turned on. This full load included everything mentioned above plus hazard flashers, cruise control, room and map lights, heated mirrors, and front and rear wipers.
At highway speeds, voltage was 13.5 volts At 700 rpm idle: 12.2 volts.

No matter what I did, as long as the engine was running, the voltmeter never went below 12 volts (at which point it would blink rapidly)

Interesting notes:

On my car the difference between headlights on or off is only 0.1 volt. It makes no difference when I change to high beams.

My rear window defroster only draws about 0.2 volts, but it is the heated mirrors which really suck the current (0.8v-1v). I am not sure why that is.

Electrical system: Original stock 95amp alternator, Optima "red top" battery, 4 gauge wire upgrade.


N.B. ------

The test as above proves no more than that the system was operating as it should. Any improvement alleged must relate to a system which was faulty before modification . The correct procedure should have been to restore the original wiring to good condition, rather than fit an overriding band aid.

(1) The figure are not compared with OEM wiring in good condition. There is absolutely no proof of improvement on OEM wiring.

(2) It would appear that a meter was plugged into the cigarette lighter socket rather than voltage monitored directly at the battery and alternator.

(3) The checks are irrelevant. The only factor applicable to the so called “upgrade”, relates to voltage drop occurring within the wiring.

I have checked the original alternator wiring on my car and these figures can be taken as typical and indicative. Measurements were taken, using two high class digital instruments in parallel, as confirmation of the accuracy of calibration.

N.B. Measurements were taken directly across the conductors involved so as to establish exact definitive figures, rather than comparing end voltages.

1. Voltage dropped alternator + to battery + with dead flat battery and all lights and accessories drawing current, engine at 4500 rpm. --- 0.5 volts.

2. As above but with fully charged battery (measured at 12.6 volts no load), --- 0.4 volts.

3. As 2, but with only engine electric's drawing current. -- 0.2 volts

4. As 1 above, but alternator frame to battery negative --- 0.13 volts

5. As 2 above, but alternator frame to battery negative --- 0.11 volts

6. As 3 above, but alternator frame to battery negative --- 0.08 volts

From the above the total voltage drop in the alternator to battery circuits can be accurately summarised as :-

a, Conditions as 1 above, --- 0.63 volts

b. Conditions as 2 above, --- 0.51 volts

c. Conditions as 3 above, --- o.28 volts

Charging current based on the above can be calculated as follows, ---

a. 0.63v / 0,008 = 78 Amps

b. 0.51v / 0,008 = 63 Amps

c. 0.28v / 0.008 = 35 Amps

The above measurements indicate that the charging system on my 1992 SVX, i.e. as originally manufactured, is working perfectly. This is born out by over seven trouble free years with the car in my hands, plus no indication of any repairs while in the hands of previous a Japanese owner. It goes without saying that I will not be messing with it.

Please accept that my only object is to be helpful, rather than controversial.
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  #24  
Old 02-08-2008, 03:58 AM
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Trevor, that post has used up all your allowed bandwidth on the Network for a month.

Kidding, Trevor, just kidding mate.

Seriously, thanks for taking the time for giving us that breakdown.

Of late I have noticed that many of the driveability issues with our cars are caused by electrical items; wires hardening and breaking from heat, sensors breaking down, MAFs, HT coils, solenoids too old and wearing out, bad wiring connections etc etc.

They are heading for 17 years old now, so much of this is understandable, if hard to troubleshoot. So diligently working on the alternator and wiring is one sure fire way to enjoy our cars longer, pun intended.

Thanks man

Joe
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Last edited by svxistentialist; 02-08-2008 at 04:08 AM.
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  #25  
Old 02-08-2008, 06:58 AM
dcarrb dcarrb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandar View Post
01. Front and rear swaybar bushings LINK TO THREAD
02. Rear swaybar end (stabilizer link) bushings (OT) INSTRUCTIONS
03. fifteen minute / $15.00 mod (OT) INSTRUCTIONS
04. Alternator wiring mod (updated) UPDATED INSTRUCTIONS POST 5
05. Rear Camber Bolts
06. Transmission Filter (Summit Racing)
07. 9005 headlight mod (okay, so they're not OT's HIDs....) INSTRUCTIONS IN POST 15
08. Transmission Resistor Replacement (OT)
09. Filled Transmission mount
10. Filled "dog bone" mount
11. Debadging your tailbar Thread Here
12. Power Mode Switch http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39133
13. Stop sunvisor drooping for <$2 How To
14. Poor-man's reinforced brake linesThread
13. Gets my vote for most sensible "mod" for normal, everyday driving.

dcb

Last edited by svxistentialist; 02-08-2008 at 07:06 AM.
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  #26  
Old 02-08-2008, 03:53 PM
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Trevor, would you agree that an upgrade of the original wiring would be a more useful solution?

That is, not to add on to the original wiring, but replace it with a higher gauge setup?
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  #27  
Old 02-08-2008, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manarius View Post
Trevor, would you agree that an upgrade of the original wiring would be a more useful solution?

That is, not to add on to the original wiring, but replace it with a higher gauge setup?
If you are running a higher output alternator, in lieu of the original then you are in a different ball park, as I mentioned in the write up. The original set up would retain the protection of the fusible link and all would be correct.

Likewise if the original wiring is broken and tatty, it would not stupid to replace it using an increase in gauge if you wished. The important aspect it to retain over current protection.

Although not very tidy, extra conductors can be added provided a fuse is incorporated, as I understand is now illustrated in the how too section, as an afterthought.
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  #28  
Old 02-22-2008, 12:57 AM
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Does anyone know where all the stock grounds are?
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  #29  
Old 02-22-2008, 07:57 AM
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Excellent breakdown Trevor, thank you for injecting some sensibility into the alternator issue, I appreciate the amount of time you put into that post.


As per the resistor modification, a power mode switch completely eliminates the need for it any uses existing OEM (albiet hidden to normal folks) shift maps. While I cannot be certain without extensive testing, I believe it pushes the transmission up to full line pressure, and locks the drivetrain into 50/50 power distribution.

Modification to the resistor was my prime suspect for the 1-2 flair that I started experiencing a bit after the mod was done, replacing the resistor with a new OEM spec one fixed the problem.


-Patrick
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  #30  
Old 03-18-2008, 09:34 AM
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