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#1
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How much, and where to get?
Kay, had a rather horrible experience last night involving a rancid burning smell and my brake pedal sinking to the floor, so I took it in to get looked at. Lo and behold, the rear brake calipers are rusted into a partially 'on' position and as such are using up the pads and heating up my brake system. Figures.
Price quote was 400-something to replace the calipers and pads on both sides. And 700-something to do that plus rotors. I'm no dummy, and I've done disc brake replacement before (though not on ABS cars), so I would like to avoid this insanely hefty price tag. I know I can get replacement rotors for a good price, but my rotors actually seem fine. I can get OEM pads cheap too, so that's not a problem either. But where could I get rear brake calipers, and how much? Hopefully less than $125...? |
#2
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NAPA has prices from $52-84 per each...these are remanufactured...either way wherever you get you new ones make sure you trade the old ones in because they are worth a core value!!! My question now is...di you actually see for yourself that they were rusted? The pistons (is that what they're called?)may have run out of grease and without that lube this could have made them "stuck" anyway the link below is for calipers at napa. I went to their site because they have locations nationwide so I figure wherever you are there is prolly one close by and if they don't have them in stock they usually don't take a long ass time to ship.
http://napaonline.com/masterpages/NO...Rear&VehCode=Y |
#3
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Also the replacement is super easy so let me know if you need any info on that. Even for a first timer it shouldn't take more than 2 hours tops!
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#4
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Yes, I did inspect them myself and yes, they are quite rusted. It's pretty nasty. Thanks for the info. There's a Napa place not too far from here... I'd just have to take a different car.
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#5
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You are having a string of problems. My sympathies. But, you want to know that rusted calipers don't account for your pedal going to the floor. That would be a leak. Either external and you're losing fuild, or internal in the master cylinder, no fuild lost.
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#6
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Rusted calipers account for brakes being constantly on which accounts for heat building up in my brake system. After driving it a while, that'd make the fluid heat up... and fluid boiling does account for pedal going to the floor. And that's backed up by my brakes working fine right now, after the whole system has cooled overnight. Just driving it to Midas made the burning smell begin to return.
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#7
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If you say so.
Quote:
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#8
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All right, but I didn't find any leaking brake fluid upon inspection, and does a leak in the line account for rancid burning smell? Where should I be looking for a leak, then? Why has my brake feel returned to normal overnight?
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#9
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Unless a steel line is rusted, a rubber line cracked or a connection is not tight (or needs a new gasket because someone reused the old one) external leaks are rare. But, if you have one the fluid in the reservior will drop.
I don't recall ever smelling burning brake fluid, but when it evaporates it smells a little sweet. The rancid burning smell is probably the brake linings. What's likely happening is that your piston is working when you apply pressure, but not releasing when you stop braking. Heat will build up until enough pad material wears away to create clearance between the pad and rotor, each time you use the brake. Some pads smell worse than others. Most of the heat is concentrated in the rotor. Pads are insulators, so almost all the heat transferred to the caliper is by raditaion. Under normal driving conditions this heat is enough to weaken, warp and scorch the rotors, but not enough to boil your fluid. I don't have any direct experience with this, but I do recall Darrel Waltrip (NASCAR) describing that boiling fluid would lock-up the brakes and I'm willing to take his word for it. Last edited by cdvs; 04-25-2007 at 06:24 PM. |
#10
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Quote:
So when you replace the caliper, rather than just bleed enough to get the air out, it will be a good time to completely flush the lines.
__________________
Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
#11
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Okay, I'll go with that because it sounds true enough. That is, they don't return to normal operating position.
But the fluid level has not dropped. Guy even came back and asked me if I added more fluid in after I felt the pedal sink, which I had not. I've got normal levels. Air pocket? Could the problems actually be unrelated? As in, yes the rear brakes aren't returning to a neutral position but that isn't why I lost brake pedal response? And if so... well, while my brakes sticking makes a bad smell and isn't good for the pads and rotors, it's losing my brake pedal and response which has me worried the most. I want to get that taken care of. If fixing the calipers fixes that, so be it. If not, I'm not gonna be a happy camper. Suggestions? EDIT: Didn't see Hocrest's post before typing this. Will definitely check this one out, as I don't think brake fluid replacement was part of the flush treatment I gave the car a while back. Thanks. Last edited by Nomake Wan; 04-25-2007 at 06:46 PM. |
#12
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If the fluid was hot enough to boil, it should be replaced now anyway. Good luck.
__________________
. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#13
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4 drilled and slotted rotors plus 8 pads:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subar...03417073QQrdZ1 I have something similiar on my car, from ebay, irotors, and they are working quite well. pads are a little dusty, but i can live with that. Here's what i have: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subar...02768467QQrdZ1
__________________
*No SVX at the moment...* 1987 Winnebago Elandan 35' 2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver. Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!! |
#14
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No, I've already found a great source for brake rotors and pads for my car, that's not an issue. But thanks anyway.
Replacing fluid later, hopefully getting some stuff more thoroughly inspected. |
#15
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You might want to check on the bearings as well. Extreme heat from a constantly engaged brake can boil the grease and make it useless.
__________________
Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
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