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  #16  
Old 07-03-2010, 07:37 AM
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Hocrest Hocrest is offline
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Re: Front diff failure/4.44 sanity check

When pulling engines or tranny's from junk yards, I always pull them from cars that were crashed.

If it's in the yard and the body is fine, you have to assume that either the engine or trans is toast.
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  #17  
Old 07-03-2010, 09:04 AM
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Re: Front diff failure/4.44 sanity check

Also, idk about in your neck of the woods, but around here junkyards have a 90 day warranty on any used drivetrain parts. It sucks if you have to do a swap all over again, but at least there is a guarantee. If going to a junkyard where you don't know the history, try to stick to one with under 100k miles on it. Around here I have a few options for under $500 and under 80k miles but subaru's are plentiful here.

If the fluids have already been drained, check the magnet in the pan as blacky said.
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  #18  
Old 07-12-2010, 10:00 AM
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Re: Front diff failure/4.44 sanity check

Thanks for all the info. I got my quotes back from the shop and unfortunately all the options are beyond my funds at the moment, so I'll just be parking her while I save up some money.

I think I need one last sanity check though; I looked through the doc that svxfiles provided, and it seems well written and quite detailed. Now the problem with well written, detailed documentation like this is that it often times makes a job seem easier than it really is. So, given that I have no garage, and a modest selection of tools, jacks, jack-stands, etc... but a willingness to get dirty/break things, and save money; should I attempt the 4.44 swap myself?

More detailed: I have a 2-1/4 jack, a set of jackstands, and basic hand tools. No garage, no power tools or air compressor. Doable without major purchases of new tools?

Last edited by Ricter; 07-12-2010 at 10:02 AM.
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  #19  
Old 07-12-2010, 11:01 AM
gbianchi gbianchi is offline
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Re: Front diff failure/4.44 sanity check

No major tools to buy, you will need 2 sets of jackstands, nice weather helps with no garage, unhooking some wire conectors is a real patience testor, unbolting the flex plate is tricky, a floppy head ratchet is the best for that if you don't have a 2foot extension. I copied the file to my laptop then just followed the steps one at a time, altering some to fit my needs. This is a MAJOR job for the diy mechanic, that being said look at your ability/confidence befor jumping in, give yourself plenty of time to do the job, I have in the past got in over my head on some things but worked through them and learned alot, there is a great feeling of acomplishment when you get done and drive your job around and it accually works!!. O K my 2 cents, good luck..............G
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  #20  
Old 07-12-2010, 02:38 PM
1986nate 1986nate is offline
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Re: Front diff failure/4.44 sanity check

If you can find someone and borrow either a low profile transmission jack or even a motorcycle jack, it will help greatly. I actually built almost a platform on top of a standard floor jack to use for getting the trans in and out when I did one in my driveway. All other times I have been able to use a shop so it made it 10 times easier. It can be done in a day but take your time as to make sure you cover everything. Before doing a trans R&R in my driveway, I had only previously done brakes and oil changes so that should tell you something.
Good luck and be careful if you decide to do it.
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  #21  
Old 07-23-2010, 08:57 AM
Ricter Ricter is offline
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Re: Front diff failure/4.44 sanity check

Everytime I think I have no more questions it turns out I do.

So, when looking for user 4.44 donor parts, how big of an issue is mileage? Obviously lower is better, but these Outback donors are getting older everyday, and low mileage examples are getting hard to come by.

My specific point: I found an Outback here locally where the timing belt/tensioner went bad and ruined the engine. Owner is parting it out, and is willing to give the trans and rear diff (which he swears had no issues) for a little over $300. I balked when I heard the mileage though - just over 200k. Should I reconsider this or keep looking for lower mileage offerings?
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  #22  
Old 07-23-2010, 09:16 AM
1986nate 1986nate is offline
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Re: Front diff failure/4.44 sanity check

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricter View Post
Everytime I think I have no more questions it turns out I do.

So, when looking for user 4.44 donor parts, how big of an issue is mileage? Obviously lower is better, but these Outback donors are getting older everyday, and low mileage examples are getting hard to come by.

My specific point: I found an Outback here locally where the timing belt/tensioner went bad and ruined the engine. Owner is parting it out, and is willing to give the trans and rear diff (which he swears had no issues) for a little over $300. I balked when I heard the mileage though - just over 200k. Should I reconsider this or keep looking for lower mileage offerings?
Well, that high of mileage I would stay away from. Luckily here in the midwest, there were plenty of subarus so there are a lot of 4.44 geared 4EATs around. I can find quite a few with under 80k miles for around $500 for the trans and rear diff. I would try to stick to under 125k and if possible, under 100k. Just my opinion.

I can't remember if it was said in this thread yet, but if it's from a running car that you can get the transmission, check the fluid or even check out how the car drives if possible. If it is a junkyard transmission, more than likely fluids have been drained. However, usually they don't bother cleaning off the magnet in the pan which can tell you just how much wear has been done. Another nice thing is that around where I am, almost all the junkyards and picknpulls offer 90 day warranties on any mechanical parts. It's a bit of an assurance and if you're doing the labor yourself, there is only extra time spent/lost...
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