Intake Idea

[Myxalplyx]

Not quite there yet. That straight pipe is too straight. Want it curving into the intake. The piping is a little to small overall but that is about it. 2.25" to 2.5" isn't cutting it on the main pipe. The two smaller pipes are 2.25" & 2.00". I think I rather have 3" main pipe to two 2.5" pipes. I will go for that next and hopefully get a curve into that left throttle body rather than a straight pipe. Just goofing around. Will get it right.

[Phast SVX]

what exactly is your thinking for having 2 differnt sized plenum feeds

[Myxalplyx]

Originally Posted by Phast SVX

what exactly is your thinking for having 2 differnt sized plenum feeds

None! It was a design flaw by the person who made it for me. At least I have a rough draft of exactly what I want to get done.

[SVXtasy]

take a look at the pics of my intake and i think that is what you are trying to get at i copied mine form what FAT did with theirs, truly i don't think there is much HP there. how we did mine was taking a 90 deg elbow and grafting another elbow on to it. it was tricky but it worked well... i think i have no data for that. i remember it being a real pain to weld the part between the two pipes. if i had it to do over again i woudl just have used the stock splitter. o right i remember why i did it out of steel i added additional injectors to it... then never used them. but hell that car has got like 500hp worth of fuel )

[Phast SVX]

Originally Posted by SVXtasy

take a look at the pics of my intake and i think that is what you are trying to get at i copied mine form what FAT did with theirs, truly i don't think there is much HP there. how we did mine was taking a 90 deg elbow and grafting another elbow on to it. it was tricky but it worked well... i think i have no data for that. i remember it being a real pain to weld the part between the two pipes. if i had it to do over again i woudl just have used the stock splitter. o right i remember why i did it out of steel i added additional injectors to it... then never used them. but hell that car has got like 500hp worth of fuel )

The stock plastic will not hold boost, thats why you didnt use it!. But in all seriousness, it took me about an hour to make mine, and it would be much easer. If you want to be more correct and tune it out for a true expansion chamber, you could use set back velocity stacks where i just used pipes. (What do i care, i dont need to build a charge )

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

After reading this thread I have one thing to say.

Your stock intake is not restrictive. Everyone can throw around ideas that may seem usfull but the engineers did it right the 1st time around. The MAF is set in the position it should stay in and everything behind it should not change.

Tom

Here here,

The most accurate statement within this thread.

[Myxalplyx]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Here here,

The most accurate statement within this thread.

Lol! Trevor...I don't disagree with you or Tom. I am just curious to see what happens to the power curve once what I do is completed.

Based on your calculations, and the latest type of intake design I am trying to complete, please tell me what I can expect to see. I am talking about my dyno runs that I had previously done and what I can expect to see happen to the power curve with the setup I am trying to complete now.

I just want an educated guess as to what I can expect to happen to my powerband. No what ifs or maybe's. Thanks!

SVXtasy...thanks for replying. If you are in a 'waiting stage' I am willing to dyno test that piece to the throttle body and send it back to you. I just want data. I did the same thing with an Ebay intake @ Nasioc because this was the same response that I got.....until the test.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...highlight=ebay The ebay intakes were ragged big time before this.

The XT6 intake seems to be ok to with no restrictions. Things changed after adding an intake when the exhaust was already opened up.
http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3498&start=0

I just want data and I'm asking for help. I already have the design part in my head. Just want to know what you think will happen with this design and where in the powerband. I will gladly post the results.

[SVXtasy]

i think it is an interesting idea comparing the SVX intake to the impreza intake. and that link is very convincing. so this might just work out, wouldn't that be cool. i woudl love to send you my intake but i am in CO and it is in NM under a car cover in my dads drive way so i cant really get to it and it has those additional injectors in it. good luck i woudl very much like to see what the results are on this.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Myxalplyx

Lol! Trevor...I don't disagree with you or Tom. I am just curious to see what happens to the power curve once what I do is completed.

Based on your calculations, and the latest type of intake design I am trying to complete, please tell me what I can expect to see. I am talking about my dyno runs that I had previously done and what I can expect to see happen to the power curve with the setup I am trying to complete now.

.

LOL . I would not be silly enough to hazard a guess. Viz. Dyno runs at different times are unlikely to accurate, as an exact basis of comparison. Furthermore you have not exactly detailed the final set up you have decided to use.

The trial set up you have pictured has several serious faults. Two tubes terminate into the size of one, before opening into the larger tube. You must appreciate that that this is plainly obstructive.

[Myxalplyx]

Originally Posted by Trevor

LOL . I would not be silly enough to hazard a guess. Viz. Dyno runs at different times are unlikely to accurate, as an exact basis of comparison. Furthermore you have not exactly detailed the final set up you have decided to use.

Dyno runs will be on the same day. 6 dyno runs total. 3 with stock intake setup and 3 with the new intake setup.

New intake setup is to be made exactly like you see SVXtasy's intake setup (and the one pictured above). 3" piping going into two 2.5" pipes that connect to the throttle body. Maf air sensor will be in it's stock location. Cone air filter will be attached to the maf sensor.

Come on...take a guess! You could be right. I respect your opinion. Just want to confirm your facts thats all, even though I am wasting my time. It is all in fun.

[It's Just Eric]

....I was never a fan of cone filters....something about the higher flow jsut seemed countered by the engine bay heat...Plus most people run very, very condictive aluminum intakes....you gotta figure that heat is going right into your "cold air" intake...

Unless, of course, the cone is in its own filter box typed warm air go away apparatus, and the metal intake is insulated..then youll be sitting pretty(At least from that perspective)

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Myxalplyx

Dyno runs will be on the same day. 6 dyno runs total. 3 with stock intake setup and 3 with the new intake setup.

New intake setup is to be made exactly like you see SVXtasy's intake setup (and the one pictured above). 3" piping going into two 2.5" pipes that connect to the throttle body. Maf air sensor will be in it's stock location. Cone air filter will be attached to the maf sensor.

Come on...take a guess! You could be right. I respect your opinion. Just want to confirm your facts thats all, even though I am wasting my time. It is all in fun.

I will back the original system, provided it IS original. Large effective filter area, intake from a cold high pressure location, adequate cross section throughout.

That said, in the event of close measurements, in no way do I trust a wheel dynamometer, much less the skill/knowledge of operators. Any figures recorded can only be --- because calibration can not be relied on and is hit and miss.

You would be much better served, by selecting a suitable piece of road with an upward gradient, and do comparative timed runs in second, from a standing start.

[Myxalplyx]

Originally Posted by Trevor

LOL . I would not be silly enough to hazard a guess. Viz. Dyno runs at different times are unlikely to accurate, as an exact basis of comparison. Furthermore you have not exactly detailed the final set up you have decided to use.

I took from this statement that dyno runs at the same time would be accurate, but you say now-->

Originally Posted by Trevor

That said, in the event of close measurements, in no way do I trust a wheel dynamometer, much less the skill/knowledge of operators. Any figures recorded can only be --- because calibration can not be relied on and is hit and miss.

So dyno runs altogether can not be trusted. How is a person supposed to plot hp/torque figures?

Originally Posted by Trevor

You would be much better served, by selecting a suitable piece of road with an upward gradient, and do comparative timed runs in second, from a standing start.

I have a G-Tech Pro and can do this however I rather go to the track. I do not care for the 1/4 mile time but trap speed.

At any rate, I see your stance on this. Thanks!

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Myxalplyx

I took from this statement that dyno runs at the same time would be accurate, but you say now-->

What I exactly said was:- "That said, in the event of close measurements, in no way do I trust a wheel dynamometer, much less the skill/knowledge of operators. Any figures recorded can only be --- because calibration can not be relied on and is hit and miss."

If you study and take into account all the possible variables, points I have made will be appreciated. In order to obtain accurate comparative figures, in particular tyre pressures must be equal between runs, which means the same temperature. The tyre rolls on a small area and any variation rolling diameter is critical. This is not easy to achieve.

There are different types of machines. The most accurate measurement possible is torque. This can be obtained by braking the applied power with some form of resistance, applied via a lever which as such can be calibrated in pounds foot. If a direct measurement could be carefully taken, using a simple ruler and weight, the figure obtained would be accurate.

However when several transducers and instruments become involved, variations due to tolerances and wear and tear are unavoidable. A load cell is often used as a means of indicating applied torque. Figures are usually produced by combining indicated torque and RPM. The latter should be taken directly from the engine, rather than via the rolling road. Few machines, if any are checked regularly if at all. The prime object is to present a fancy print out and get paid.

The local supermarket must be able to provide factual official certification, in respect of any measurements applied to produce sold. Try asking for the same, in respect of dyno figures you are being sold. You will get heaps of blurb from the manufacturer of the machine, but nothing officially certified, particularly in respect of any individual installation.

A true dynamometer, as the word implies, consists of an electric dynamo, the output of which is absorbed by a variable resistance bank. Current and voltage measurements are taken and directly indicate power in Watts. Even then there is discrepancy, as dynamos can vary in efficiency. Braked loading in lbs foot and RPM, is again the ultimate.

You most certainly can use "dyno" testing as means of estimation, but be aware of the limitations involved and take these into account.

[Tiamat-red]

If I read this correctly, this intake setup has been in the works since Jan 06??
Comon! I want results!