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  #1  
Old 05-19-2004, 09:48 AM
SVXer95 SVXer95 is offline
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Lucas - The Dark Knight

Lucas is most definitely the knight of darkness. At least this holds true for my dads '76 triumph TR6.

I'll start at the beginning:
My father's tr6 would never run rich, even if the carbs were adjusted to full rich. The car would not pass emissions either. Turns out there was a leaky intake manifold gasket, so that was replaced. After replacement, the motor was still running lean! With carbs adjusted to full rich, the plugs were still white/tan. This is utterly unbelievable if you know triumphs. These cars tend to run rich no matter what you do.

All of a sudden, the motor decided to run rich. And to boot, decided to run on only cylinders 1 2 3. All six are getting spark from the coil, and I changed the plugs with no avail. It seems like an electrical problem, but it is getting spark.

Carb adjustment tends to do nothing, although, our adjustment tool broke, so we are sol until the new one comes in.

I am thinking it is flooding and fouling plugs on the rear three cylinders. Could this be it? The weird part is that it would never run rich before, now it won't at all????

The firing order is every other for the front three and rear three cylinders, so it runs smooth, just with half a motor. When I remove wires one at a time while the motor is running, there is no change for the rear three, but significant change for the front three.

The weirdest part is that the front and rear carbs are balanced fine, but the front runs and the rear doesn't. Diaphragms are in perfect working order as well.

Any thoughts? I must be missing something simple.

TIA
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  #2  
Old 05-19-2004, 10:54 AM
LarryIII LarryIII is offline
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Collin,

Lucas was always known as the "Prince of Darkness" not just a knight. This goes back to MG A's, Sprites, & TR-3's.
Can't help with your problem. Contact Randy, he had a Spitfire.
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  #3  
Old 05-19-2004, 11:28 AM
lee lee is offline
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I suppose you've tried sites such as:

http://www.6-pack.org/6pack/html/

I have no ideas to help you - but I feel obligated to point out that Lucas is in the electrics business, not carbs...and you did say all the cylinders were getting spark...

I'm probably in a minority, but I have nothing bad to say about Lucas. I own and ride a 1975 Norton Commando Roadster. There have been only three electrical problems and two electrical pieces that I have changed since it rolled out the dealer's shop a little over 29 years ago.

1) Changed to a solid state ignition (Boyer, another Brit electronics company) just because I hated messing with the points. Still have the original coils, etc.

2) Ignition/key switch. Actually, I still have the original switch, I just had to take it apart and do an overhaul on the contacts.

3) I changed the headlamp bulb two years ago.
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Old 05-19-2004, 06:41 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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The prince of darkness,

Being Australian, I am well versed in the devisive ways of the Prince. Though in this case, I think he is in the clear. If the motor runs on the first 3 cylinders OK, then it is every second firing that is missing. This clears the ignition system, even the Prince can't arrange this.

I would be looking at the rear carb, has to be the cause. You can't really adjust the mixture on the CV carb, only the idle. I would check to see if the needle has dropped out of the slide, and is sitting down in the jet. If you can remove the air cleaner and look down the throat of the rear carb as you open the throttle, you can see the fuel leaving the jet. Compare this carb to the front to see if there is a difference.

All the best, on the hunt.

Harvey.
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Old 05-19-2004, 07:23 PM
SVXer95 SVXer95 is offline
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Re: The prince of darkness,

Quote:
Originally posted by oab_au
Being Australian, I am well versed in the devisive ways of the Prince. Though in this case, I think he is in the clear. If the motor runs on the first 3 cylinders OK, then it is every second firing that is missing. This clears the ignition system, even the Prince can't arrange this.

I would be looking at the rear carb, has to be the cause. You can't really adjust the mixture on the CV carb, only the idle. I would check to see if the needle has dropped out of the slide, and is sitting down in the jet. If you can remove the air cleaner and look down the throat of the rear carb as you open the throttle, you can see the fuel leaving the jet. Compare this carb to the front to see if there is a difference.

All the best, on the hunt.

Harvey.
I figured it wouldn't be electrical, but, with these cars you never know.

When I remove the plugs they are wet, meaning they are getting fuel. I was thinking the charge off the coil was weak, but this wouldn't explain the first three running smoothly.

These are 175 CD carbs. I am pretty sure the mixture is adjustable using a special tool that holds the diaphragms from turning while adjusting the needle. If not, what have we been adjusting? The adjuster goes in where the oil damper is.

I have to agree that the rear carb is the problem, just have to determine what it is. I have a feeling that a rebuild may be in order.

I am a bit naive about these cars, so I may be wrong on a number of these things. Thanks for the replies folks.
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2004, 07:44 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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The screw that you adjust, moves the needle up or down to adjust the idle mixture. As against the SU where you adjust the jet up or down.

If the plugs are wet, then it is flooding. Bad float, needle and seat leaking, bent float frame that pushes the float needle up. If it is leaking past the float bowl needle and seat, then it should be running out the bowl breather.

Try what I said about looking down the throats, if it is that rich, it should be obvious. Is the rear slide lifting?

You didn't say if it does this, only at idle, or when the throttle is opened?

Harvey.
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  #7  
Old 05-19-2004, 08:46 PM
SVXer95 SVXer95 is offline
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We are going to pull it apart and check out the float and the rest of the internals next week. Thanks for the tips!
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