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#31
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Steering axis or king pin angle
Harvey mate, I am amazed by your statement in this thread as follows : -
06/18/03, Quote ---- I'll explain it better. Looking from the front of the car at the right side wheel. The steering axis or kingpin inclination, is a line drawn down from the top strut bearing, down through the bottom ball joint, to meet the ground in the centre of the tyre contact patch. This is the line that the wheel steers around. ---------------------------------- It is the fact that the line of the steering axis or king pin inclination does NOT meet the ground in the CENTRE of the tyre contact patch as you so exactly state that provides correct steering geometry. If what you state was true there would be no caster angle and no offset. In fact what you later describe would not take place. In the usual set up i.e. a car with positive caster, the line of the king pin or steerin axis will meet the ground at a point ahead of the centre of the tyre contact patch so as to provide caster angle and will also be inside or outside the centre point to provide offset. I have looked at the drawing you have provided but this in no way corrects your statement and in fact illustrates your error in respect of offset. Cheers, have a Cooper's. Trevor.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#32
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Re: Steering axis or king pin angle
Quote:
I am not interested where the caster line meets the ground, or the camber line, or the Ackerman angle is. Just where the steering axis line meets the ground, in line with the center of the tyre contact patch. Caster has nothing to do with torque steer. Harvey.
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One Arm Bloke. Tell it like it is! 95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels. 97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls. 04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls. |
#33
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Hi Harvey,
Not to worry as this was quite a difficult concept to put into words I agree and the reason for the diagram. I have kept my old 1972 FF1 Subaru on the basis of it being the best basically engineered car I have come across. It has an ideal set up for front drive. There is no front wheel off set and no torque steer. This is achieved as a result of inboard front brakes which allow for an extreme dish in the wheels so that the steering axis can align with the for and aft centre line of the tyre contact patch. This gets over much of the torque steer problem as you have described and also reduces steering effort as well as unsprung weight. It does mean that the drive assembly also has to take a considerable reverse load on braking but this has proven to be no disadvantage although unusual in a " cooking model " car. The FF1 has lots of other down to earth design features which indicate absolute common sense as the main consideration of the designers. All driving and front suspension stresses are isolated and concentrated within a tubular front sub frame. This can be unbolted from the body section and removed as an assembly which pretty well incorporates all the cars important wearing components. Removal can be achieved in less than an hour. In point of fact the car sort of trundles along behind a traction unit ! Quite quickly too. 107 genuine MPH is even now not bad for a 1200 c. c. full sedan with vast luggage space. It would be very easy to go one step further to facilitate a set up allowing one to drive in for repairs and in 15 minutes drive out again with a rental mechanicals in place. What a set up that would be for fleet vehicles etc. Working on the removed assembly would be a piece of piss as the saying goes. How about that for changing some of the hard to get at stuff on the SVX ! We can but dream. How do you get a license to shoot a pistol in OZ , for the fourth fffing time ? What is the oil ? Regards, Trevor.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#34
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Quote:
Quote:
I am bumping this up just in case anyone else recently has experienced this problem. Now....I have to find out how to go about getting a bad transfer valve solenoid assy. *sigh* SUCKS!!!! Is this part expensive?
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Kevin Thomas 1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph 1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph 1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph ***R.I.P*** 2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph ) 2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph) |
#35
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What Harvey was saying in an impressive display of confused text, is that if the centre clutch is not engaging properly, the car is effectively front wheel drive and can exhibit the torque steer tendencies of a FWD car.
You can assess whether this could be your problem, by inserting the FWD fuse and run a test drive by way of comparison. N.B. “a bad transfer valve solenoid assy.” will not necessarily be the cause if there is such a problem.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#36
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Kevin did this problem start when you had your valve body replaced? Are you getting the TCU trouble code?(16 flashes of the "Power" light at startup)
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
#37
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Chris,
To you alone I sincerely apologise. After years of frustration, sorting out Harvey's messy unsound statements I regret that anger remains. Please do not blame me for Harvey’s absence. For the record I correct the facts regarding the real crap. N.B. Harvey’s swan song constitutes a thread, in which his knowledge was challenged by another very respected member. In a fit of pique, ego dented, he chose not to reply and has remained absent ever since. Furthermore he has never to accepted responsibility for, and or tendered an apology, in respect of a sly thread he posted, directly challenging my honesty and integrity. Hence my anger. Sincerely, Trevor.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
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