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Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
Any one got a good site or chat room for info on a 2.5 lt motor ? My son's Legacy is rapp'n on a rod bearing just a bit & I'm thinking of replacing the bearings while the motor is still in the car.
Any info would be great...thanks..... Last edited by robinhoodof she; 09-22-2009 at 11:11 PM. Reason: requested change of format...sorry |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
Hello Robin,
Please if you can edit your post or continue typing in normal font/color that would be great. I wouldn't recommend changing the bearings while the engine is still in, because the crankshaft might need to be machined/polished. You can check nasioc.com for more WRX/Legacy info.
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
Another great sight for Legacy info is http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/
I have no idea how bad your noise is, but there have been numerous times with Subaru flat 4's where "rod knock" was something much less severe like valve tap or timing belt idlers...
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
In the The 2.5, Piston slap is pretty common, and can sometimes be miss-diagnosed as a rod knock....just a thought...
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Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
If you have arms like an octupus you can do it but otherwise pulling the motor is the way to go.
Changing the spark plugs on my Outback is bad enough. |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
<< I'm thinking of replacing the bearings while the motor is still in the car. >>
you need to split the case to do bearings and thats not going to happen in the car. give us more info on the car and problems...
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Liberalism is a disease. When you can stare at facts and ignore them anyway, you have it. |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
a 2.2 will make a wonderful upgrade
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
Quote:
So these are common for piston slap....hummmm car is a 99 with 160,000 miles, few weeks ago I heard "something", sounded like bottom end noise but was'nt sure. week later he told me it overheated on the way home (never did this before) so I assumed it was the waterpump...previous sound seemed to come from the drivers side front area. When I pulled off the front end I found that the belt, idler & water pump had recently been replaced. Had a journeyman mechanic come over & listen & he figures it's bottom end. But you guys could be right piston slaps a possibility. But I don't know why it overheated...could be a relay or sensor...will have to look into further....THANKS AGAIN!!!! oh it is dohc...can I swap any motor in it's place??????? Last edited by robinhoodof she; 09-22-2009 at 11:05 PM. Reason: more info |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
Quote:
Tom |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
You can drop in a SOHC 2.5 (or 2.2) but more info on that can be had at NASIOC, as they do lots of swaps over there...(just put on your flame suit before entering....)
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Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
Thanks....Huck...neat site...going to register & see what's up.....
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
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Re: Need info on 2.5 lt SUB motor
If it's overheating, check for bubbles in the radiator overflow tank. Rev the engine and look for aquarium style bubbles coming up in the overflow tank. If you see this then it's time for a new head gasket. That's what happened to this forester I worked on. Then it's time to pull the engine, which is very easy.
I did a writeup on a Forester website: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...rogress-60595/ Copy/paste: Hello everyone, My wife volunteered me to help out her friend by doing an engine and tranny removal, so I pulled the engine and trans out two days ago. The vehicle is a '99 forester with the EJ25 SOHC engine. Using the information from this site, the process turned out to be very simple and straightforward. I will outline the steps that were used to remove the engine and the tranny, just another view point on the same procedure. My list mimmicks another list that I found on this site and I hope it helps out other folks. 1. Drain coolant and flush coolant system. By placing the rear of the car a little higher than the front, most of the coolant will drain out. Additionally, the Tstat is removed and only fresh water is used to clean out the coolant system. I use a garden hose and an adapter to flush out the heater lines and cores. The car is driven with fresh water and then allowed to drain for few hours. 2. Front of car is parked on ramps. If possible, park all four wheel on ramps or on jack stands. The more room you have underneath, the easier it'll be. 3. Remove splash shield from under engine bay. 4. Open hood all the way and using a strap to keep it open. I removed the prop rod because it was annoying me! 5. Remove belt covers using 10mm 6. Depressurize fuel system - run engine, pull fuel pump relay under dash. Engine dies. 7. Put transmission in neutral, roll down windows. 8. Disconnect battery , remove battery and tray 9. Disconnect radiator hoses 10. Remove overflow tank and drain old coolant. 11. Remove fan assembly (two connectors) 10mm 12. Remove Radiator 13. Place a large cardboard in front of the A/C condenser to protect it from accidentally getting hit with tools or engine during removal. 14. Disconnect fuel line trio - mark hoses first. 15. Disconnect MAF sensor wire 16. Disconnect throttle position sensor wire 17. Disconnect and remove air intake assembly and large box at the throttle body 18. Remove the A/C belt tensioning bracket 19. Disconnect ALT and A/C compressor connectors and move the harness out of the way. 20. Remove Alternator 21. Remove AC Compressor - you'll end up removing the lower bracket with the compressor. Notice the large bracket to the left of the A/C comp, that's the engine lifting eye. It stays with the engine! 22. Put the comp in the space vacated by the battery. Careful twisting the flexible hoses. 23. Remove Power Steering Pump and put it in the area vacated by the air filter housing. Don't forget to disconnect the PS press switch connector. 24. Place crankshaft pulley at TDC. Remove the crankshaft pulley using 22 mm socket. Use a screwdriver through the upper rear access hole in the bellhousing to stop the engine from rotating. DON'T use a chain wrench on the pulley. 25. Remove the plastic timing covers. Being careful to break the bolts loose. If you live in a rust prone area, soak all of these bolts/nuts with penetrating oil for few days. 26. Using the same screwdriver to stop the engine from rotating, loosen the two camshaft bolts using 17mm socket. I think it's easier to do this in the car then to do it on an engine stand due to wobbly and instability. YMMV. 27. Remove starter solenoid single connector. 28. Remove one vacuum line (by air cleaner) from the VSV at the passenger fender. 29. Disconnect brake booster vac line (by starter) 30. Remove hose from PCV Valve 31. Disconnect two large Grey and one Brown connector from the engine. 32. Disconnect main harness (by O2 sensor) 33. Disconnect O2 sensor. Leave O2 sensors screwed into the exhaust pipe. 34. Disconnect exhaust pipe at the exh manifold and toward the middle of the car and totally remove it. Need to do this for tranny removal. 35. Disconnect rear engine mount (pitch stopper) bracket and move out of the way. 36. Remove the Throttle body from the intake. By doing this, you give yourself more wiggle room. If you're planning to reuse the gasket, carefully remove it. 37. Remove drive plate to torque converter nuts (four 12mm bolts). I accessed them through the hole in the upper rear of the engine, toward the passenger side. 38. Disconnect two lower engine mounts by removing the nuts. 39. Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the engine to the tranny bell housing. All are 14 mm.
41. Disconnect the starter and move it out of the way. 42. Connect lifting chain to the front and rear engine lifting eyes. 43. Lift engine slightly to check for any obstructions. 44. Lift engine until the motor mount bolt clear the bolt holes. 45. Separate the engine from tranny bellhousing by shaking the engine or using a flat head or similar prying tool. If not separating, then check to make sure that you've removed all bolts and two nuts. I missed two bolts that were the near the top but hidden under brackets. 46. Push the torque converter back by using a screwdriver through the rear access hole on top of the bell housing. 47. Lift engine out slowly and carefully Total elapsed time for actual engine removal: 5 hours All hardware were broken loose manually then spun off using air ratchet. Impact were used to remove the tranny to engine bolts and the exhaust bolts. This is a NM vehicle so zero rust was encountered during this process. Below are some pics of the engine bay looks like after the engine has been pulled out.
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E |
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