alternator wires

[Gamesy]

Where do the 2 wires that attach on the screw on top of the alternator connect to?

i need to replace mine since thye are completely corroded.

thanks

[BoxerFanatic]

I am doing the alternator wiring upgrade as soon as my ordered alternator arrives.

SVXCESS wrote it up, and it is around here, readily available for a search.

But the basics are, if I am not incorrect (and please correct me now, if so), that those two white wires get cut back to a point where they aren't baked to brittleness, and capped together, and insulated.

Then new 4 or 2 gauge wiring installed from the alternator, to the battery's positive terminal, with a MegaFuse inline, near the battery.

I am probably going to replace the battery ground lead and engine ground strap, with the same gauge of wire, as well as possibly digging into the fusebox, and replacing the leads from there to the battery terminals, as well.

Then the only thing left for wiring on the SVX is to track down an intermittent short with the windshield wipers when it is raining.

[Gamesy]

good to knew since i'm looking at getting a 160A one but i need to replace the cable cause its all corroded, and looks like it runs into the fender so b4 i start taking stuff apart i wanna know what it connects too

[BoxerFanatic]

I've ordered the Maniac Motors 160amp alternator, but there seems to be some delay with the shipping.

I inquired about it, am hoping it will be cleared up soon.

[svxcess]

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MY original alternator configuration writeup can be found HERE


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...9&postcount=84


You will need to add the larger power wire and the 2 larger ground wires if you are using the 160A alternator. You could just add them into the circuit with the original wires left in; the current will follow the path of least resistance and flow through the new wiring, not the old corroded wiring. But cutting them back and splicing is better


Here is the schematic. I removed the two white wires from the alternator (circled in green) cut them back and spliced them together. Add the new power cable and fuse (shown in magenta) and new grounds. This circuit maintains all the factory fusing.







Since one of the white wires is the charging wire from the alternator to the battery, you must add the new charging wire to take its place, if you are going to cut and splice the old ones together

[BoxerFanatic]

Thanks again, Svxcess.

Just as a clarification... two new grounds...

That is from the chassis to battery, and engine to battery, right?

Can it be accomplished by a grounding strap and a large-gauge negative battery lead, both anchored to the chassis at the horn bracket, just in front of the battery?

Or should the engine grounding strap, and chassis ground both need to terminate at the negative battery post clamp? Does it make an electrical difference?

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

Thanks again, Svxcess.

Just as a clarification... two new grounds...

That is from the chassis to battery, and engine to battery, right?

Can it be accomplished by a grounding strap and a large-gauge negative battery lead, both anchored to the chassis at the horn bracket, just in front of the battery?

Or should the engine grounding strap, and chassis ground both need to terminate at the negative battery post clamp? Does it make an electrical difference?

Personal preference.

i prefer having the 4 gauge grounding cable going from the battery directly to the chassis (horn bracket is fine) AND the same type of cable from the negative battery to the engine (A/C bracket is fine)

Electrically, I like the high strand copper wire better than the steel grounding straps. Less resistance.












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[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Gamesy

good to knew since i'm looking at getting a 160A one but i need to replace the cable cause its all corroded, and looks like it runs into the fender so b4 i start taking stuff apart i wanna know what it connects too

just cut the cables back to where you have fresh copper. they should not be corroded all the way back.


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[svxcess]

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

I've ordered the Maniac Motors 160amp alternator, but there seems to be some delay with the shipping.

I inquired about it, am hoping it will be cleared up soon.

That's because they have no cores left. Many have been buying alternators and not returning their old cores for rebuilding. I have posted this problem many times. This hurts all of us.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...3&postcount=21

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[Gamesy]

i'm gonna have to replace those white cables completely, they are corroded and frayed all the way.....

hopefully i'm readin that wiring diagram correctly to see that its only going to the fuse box since i see the one cable connecting to 3 others....

btw i'm sending in 2 alternator cores

hey SVXcess, in the writeup you connected the 2 white cables together and not attach them to the alternator?

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Gamesy

in the writeup you connected the 2 white cables together and did NOT attach them to the alternator?

Correct.

In the original wiring diagram, both wires were.connected together at the alternator. One of those wires was the charging wire to the battery. This was replaced by the new separate cable to the battery.

They are still connected.


Submitted all of this data, (modification writeup,schematic, photos, etc.) to Subaru of America quite a while ago (2009). Here is part of the reply from the Technical Analysis and Performance Division:

"The two wires that you shortened were originally joined at the alternator post, all that had to be done was to remove them from the alternator post, shorten them and connect them together. This restores the original circuitry and its inherent safety elements, but excludes the original alternator output, which now has its own dedicated, fused line to the battery."...

"...Implementing this modification is easy, safe and removes and isolates the alternator output from the rest of the electrical system. As it seems that the voltage regulator within the alternator is the weak link and is most prone to go bad, most would want to guard against it. This does exactly that."


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[Gamesy]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Correct.

In the original wiring diagram, both wires were.connected together at the alternator. One of those wires was the charging wire to the battery. This was replaced by the new separate cable to the battery.

They are still connected.


Submitted all of this data, (modification writeup,schematic, photos, etc.) to Subaru of America quite a while ago (2009). Here is part of the reply from the Technical Analysis and Performance Division:

"The two wires that you shortened were originally joined at the alternator post, all that had to be done was to remove them from the alternator post, shorten them and connect them together. This restores the original circuitry and its inherent safety elements, but excludes the original alternator output, which now has its own dedicated, fused line to the battery."...

"...Implementing this modification is easy, safe and removes and isolates the alternator output from the rest of the electrical system. As it seems that the voltage regulator within the alternator is the weak link and is most prone to go bad, most would want to guard against it. This does exactly that."


.

interesting to know, i'm wondering how long it takes them to REMAN a new alternator once they have em

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Gamesy

Interesting to know, I'm wondering how long it takes them to REMAN a DEAD alternator to like new, once they have em?

Between 24 and 48 hours, if they have the cores.

Stock 95A units are rebuilt and waiting to go. 160A high-output units are made to order.


The only other option for Maniac is to try to buy cores from a third-party supplier, which is more costly for everyone.


I know there are a lot of dead cores out there. Just pack them up and ship them to her with a pre-paid label she will send you. Christian's phone number is 972-557-5768

[Subaru Alliance]

Very nice simple write up. I will plan on doing this mod also, but one of the weapons in my arsenal is some good ole fashioned dielectric grease.

Just curios if anyone used it with this mod, maybe it's not necessary, but my two most used every chance i get items are dielectric grease, and anti-seize.

Maybe just wishful thinking here, but I think the dielectric grease will shield the exposed connections from the elements, and hey it conducts electricity.

I always hate to see that Ole green corrosion show it's face, BTW I am sure there is some of that corrosion on or around my battery connections that could use a cleaning and a hit of grease, Ima go check. .


Oh yeah, a lot of people in the army use axle grease on battery terminals and it irritates the crap outta me, I tell them if it's not dielectric grease, then don't use anything on the terminals.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Subaru Alliance

Very nice simple write up. I will plan on doing this mod also, but one of the weapons in my arsenal is some good ole fashioned dielectric grease.

Just curious if anyone used it with this mod, maybe it's not necessary, but my two most used every chance i get items are dielectric grease, and anti-seize.

Maybe just wishful thinking here, but I think the dielectric grease will shield the exposed connections from the elements, and hey it conducts electricity.

I always hate to see that ole green corrosion show it's face, BTW I am sure there is some of that corrosion on or around my battery connections that could use a cleaning and a hit of grease, I'ma go check. .


Oh yeah, a lot of people in the army use axle grease on battery terminals and it irritates the crap outta me, I tell them if it's not dielectric grease, then don't use anything on the terminals.

I don't use dielectric grease. It is a non-conductive grease and does not enhance the flow of electrical current. Dielectric grease is, however, often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector. If you want, spread a thin layer around the outside of your connection; do not use it on mating parts during assembly as it does not conduct electricity.

The best use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic portion of the plug.

Using oxygen-free copper cables, a really heavy crimp (no solder on the battery wires) and adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing keep the corrosion away.

Without any cleaning, my cables look as pristine and non-green as when installed them almost 2 years ago in the above photos. My voltmeter also tells me that my voltages haven't dropped due to corrosion resistance.

If I was really anal, I would used an electrical conductive grease on the surfaces prior to assembly On the battery cables only, but haven't found the need so far.


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