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  #31  
Old 07-12-2010, 05:22 PM
sowise sowise is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

Ok dude first gotta say I loved the camera rig I actually laughed out loud but hey it functioned right.

Second, bad news I still couldn't see anything the second video is definitely better than the first and in the general area. Have you been under there when someone else tries to recreate the noise?

I really wish there was more to see or more that could be seen with the rig it really was a note worthy effort. Maybe someone else has ideas? I do think that it looked odd in the way that I couldn't tell if I was looking at item 3 or item 11 from the parts graphic, in your video. If it was indeed item 3 it is either on the wrong side of the dust boot or the boot is damaged (item 6). If it was item 11 I didn't see anything around it much, sorry.
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  #32  
Old 07-14-2010, 05:59 AM
Lookin4SVX Lookin4SVX is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

In the second video you are staring up at what I think is the bottom of part 11.
The camera is halfway up the spring.
The black rubber piece in the middle of the spring is part 6.
I can't see anything up there either...

Glad you liked the camera rig. I almost didn't post the camera rig pics.
The video, they didn't really get to what I needed, but I kept looking at the pics and decided that they were amusing enough to post for that reason alone.

No I haven't been under there while someone else jumped on the rear end of the car.
There is barely clearance under there for my head when someone doesn't have their weight on the car.
I fear I would get crushed to death or at least smacked in the head a few times with the muffler while I screamed for them to stop jumping.

Oh well, this is going to have to put this off until next week when my friend gets back and I can get it on jack stands with the wheel off and get my head under there.

I decided to occupy my time building myself a new mid range gaming computer and upgrading my other 3 computers with the parts from my old gaming rig.
I spent yesterday backing up everything, that's why I didn't get here to reply until now.
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  #33  
Old 07-14-2010, 06:30 PM
sowise sowise is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lookin4SVX View Post
In the second video you are staring up at what I think is the bottom of part 11.
The camera is halfway up the spring.
The black rubber piece in the middle of the spring is part 6.
I can't see anything up there either...

Glad you liked the camera rig. I almost didn't post the camera rig pics.
The video, they didn't really get to what I needed, but I kept looking at the pics and decided that they were amusing enough to post for that reason alone.

No I haven't been under there while someone else jumped on the rear end of the car.
There is barely clearance under there for my head when someone doesn't have their weight on the car.
I fear I would get crushed to death or at least smacked in the head a few times with the muffler while I screamed for them to stop jumping.

Oh well, this is going to have to put this off until next week when my friend gets back and I can get it on jack stands with the wheel off and get my head under there.

I decided to occupy my time building myself a new mid range gaming computer and upgrading my other 3 computers with the parts from my old gaming rig.
I spent yesterday backing up everything, that's why I didn't get here to reply until now.
No problem but yes I enjoyed the pics of the rig definitely worth posting. The video was ok but inconclusive but didn't see anything to really cause me to say That's IT! Yes the car is low. They have cheap ramps you can buy or borrow from someone just to get it up higher if your interested in checking while under the car. Just back it up on the ramps and have some one move it while looking underneath.

Sounds like you are ok to wait on your friend to get back etc. Also for the gaming rig if you don't use them already www.newegg.com is great for low cost PC stuff and super quick shipping.
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  #34  
Old 07-15-2010, 10:47 AM
Lookin4SVX Lookin4SVX is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

Yeah I have a set of small ramps I backed the car onto to do the sway bar.
i just didn't think it be a good idea to put it up on ramps and then jump on the end that was up on ramps.
You think it be safe and not fall off the ramps and crush me?

And yes I am a newegg shopper, this is my new computer:
Motherboard:
ASUS M4A88TD-M AM3 AMD 880G SATA 6Gb/s AMD Motherboard = $90
CPU:
AMD Phenom II X2 555 Black Edition Callisto 3.2GHz Socket AM3 80W Dual-Core Desktop Processor - C3 Revision HDZ555WFGMBOX = $99
RAM:
Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model 996782 = $109
HDD (2 Disk RAID-0 Array)
Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive = $54ea. x2 = $108
PSU:
CORSAIR CMPSU-450VX 450W ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC = $45
Optical Drives:
ASUS DVDRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM = $19ea. x2 = $38
Case:
HEC 6C28BB8S Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case = $47

Total: $536 shipped.

I plan to making a picture thread on this at some point. I don't think there is enough off topic threads on this board.
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  #35  
Old 07-15-2010, 05:30 PM
sowise sowise is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lookin4SVX View Post
Yeah I have a set of small ramps I backed the car onto to do the sway bar.
i just didn't think it be a good idea to put it up on ramps and then jump on the end that was up on ramps.
You think it be safe and not fall off the ramps and crush me?
Depends on your ramps and you can always chock block your front tires while it is on ramps so it doesn't roll forward if that is the concern. However should be fine but it truly is your head etc. However one of your clips it didn't look like it had to be shaken too hard to get the noise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lookin4SVX View Post
And yes I am a newegg shopper, this is my new computer:
Motherboard:
ASUS M4A88TD-M AM3 AMD 880G SATA 6Gb/s AMD Motherboard = $90
CPU:
AMD Phenom II X2 555 Black Edition Callisto 3.2GHz Socket AM3 80W Dual-Core Desktop Processor - C3 Revision HDZ555WFGMBOX = $99
RAM:
Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model 996782 = $109
HDD (2 Disk RAID-0 Array)
Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive = $54ea. x2 = $108
PSU:
CORSAIR CMPSU-450VX 450W ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC = $45
Optical Drives:
ASUS DVDRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM = $19ea. x2 = $38
Case:
HEC 6C28BB8S Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case = $47

Total: $536 shipped.

I plan to making a picture thread on this at some point. I don't think there is enough off topic threads on this board.
I like the low $ set up, the processor is nice and seems to be well liked with all the positive reviews. The motherboard doesn't have alot of reviews and though all of the reviewers are highly skilled with pc so unless you are doing crazy stunts with it (I doubt) the negatives or cons probably won't bother you. Looks like you are setting it up to run 32 bit based on the amount of RAM, just curious if you considered 64 bit OS (Windows 7?). I am on a bit older laptop the HP HDX18 it's big and heavy but love it. I have one of the first eeePC from Asus as well running vista (cut down version) on a 4gb sshd 2gb ram lol. My Asus has OBDII software for my other vehicles and is ultra portable. I use Autoenginuity software and so far no complaints.
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  #36  
Old 07-15-2010, 07:26 PM
Lookin4SVX Lookin4SVX is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

My friend will be back on Saturday, so will try and get to the bottom of this noise over the weekend if he has time.

Far as the mobo goes, I am an asus fan.
Board fired right up, no problems with drivers or anything.

I wanted a microATX board. This one has a lot of good stuff crammed onto it.
I have 3 other store bought computers, and they don't support the full size boards.
So this way when I upgrade, the boards rotate into one of the older slower computers.

The core unlocker is literally just flip a switch on the mobo.
I flipped the switch and it was able to unlocked 1 of the disabled cores. Now I have Phenom II X3.

Recognized my non QVL ram as DDR3 1333, I manually corrected to 1600.

This board offers plenty of overclocking options.

Has its own auto overclocking utility, or preset profiles up to 10% overclock.
It does this with increased FSB, and since I have an unlocked multiplier, I was able to get better results using manual overclock settings. But this is a nice feature for the not so experienced.

Highest stable clock on stock HSF and voltage is 3884mhz 1704mhz ram. That gets up to 68șC under prime95.
It will do 3996mhz stable (18.5multi/216FSB) with small voltage bump, but it is too hot for stock fan, I was hitting 70 after bout half hour of prime95.
I have an arctic cooler coming but it shipped out of CA not NJ with the rest of the parts.
Highest screenshotable clock on stock voltage: 4.2Ghz

I can't speak of the onboard video, I have 4870 for that.

Currently running 3 cores, 3.6Ghz, 1704mhz ram 7-8-7-20 T1, Stock volts.
45șC idle, 61șC Max 100% loaded on stock HSF.

Running Windows XP Pro. I don't like change...

I have a computer with windows 7 ultimate 32bit. I hate win 7.
I have everything turned off, and it set to look like win2000, just like I run my XP.
I still hate win 7.

64bit.. nah don't feel like dealing with that mess.

Last edited by Lookin4SVX; 07-15-2010 at 07:31 PM.
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  #37  
Old 07-22-2010, 01:48 PM
Lookin4SVX Lookin4SVX is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

Update:
Well my friend and I looked all over the car. We took turns riding around in the backseat and trunk.
The noise is definitely coming from the rear deck area.
My friend says my rear struts mounts are shot, and that the struts, while not visibly leaking, may as well be replaced at the same time.

Took it to my mechanic today, wanted to get another opinion on it still.
He said the noise sounds high, like the rear strut mounts.
When I asked him what I should replace along with it, he said to just wait and do the entire complete struts and mounts, replace everything...
As priced above, that will be $1000+...
And I know the fronts are shot, so that will be another $1000...
So now I am looking at a $2000 project to replace the struts.

While at the mechanic I also had him inspect the used motor mounts I bought off of a member here.
Unfortunately he confirmed my suspicions, the used mounts are already splitting. When he pulled on the mounts you could see the edge of it separating.
He told me to find another set, that these would tear soon after they were on the car and would be a waste of money to install. Well I guess that was $ well spent.
On the bright side, at least I now have a set of svx engine mount brackets to modify to use with some of those STi mounts...goodie, another project..

BTW, am I crazy to consider dropping another $2k into my 92 with 193,000mi on her? I payed 2K for her.
She has her cosmetic issues, normal faded sunroof and sails.
Her back bumper is chipped bad, looks like parking lot damage, trailer hitch would be my guess, it needs bondo and paint.
Hood needs paint to fix chips above lights, its chipped like its got 190K on it.
There are small dents in the roof from roof mounted bike rack, not sure if its fixable, haven't even looked into it. It is the least of my worries, hardly notable compared with the big sun-bleached sunroof spot.
Front passenger side of the bumper was repaired poorly. They just riveted a metal bar in front of the tire to mount it on. Bumper hangs fine, I am just not happy with there choice of mounting equipment. It is like something my friend would come up with as a jury rig, not a repair.

Oh, yeah and to make my day even better..
As I was driving back from the mechanic, my check engine light came on. Get home pull the code, Code 34, EGR solenoid.
Joy, nothing like having hot exhaust gas pumping into the motor at all times, though this may explain the funky idle I had going on this morning.
So I popped the hood and the engine bay felt extremely hot. I have never felt that much heat from my engine bay, but yet my temp gauge on the dash says perfect middle.
If my engine bay is hot like the surface of the sun, shouldn't my temp gauge reflect that? Does EGR solenoid have anything to do with the engine temp gauge?
I am trying to figure out why the engine bay was so hot, yet temp gauge reading perfect normal medium.

All of this is really a pain as this is my daily driver.
It is times like these when I consider buying another used car and parking the SVX until I can afford to drop her at svxfiles door and make her proper.
But there is one problem with this plan....every time I look at used cars, all I keep looking at are other SVX! I think I am finally coming to understand...I need 2 SVX? lol

Well I am definitely having one of those fukucar days today and I just wanted to share.

If I do the complete struts will be at least October until I can afford to drop 2k at once to fix it.

Anyone with advice on the ERG thing and the engine bay being hotter than the sun while temp gauge reads normal, please let me know.
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  #38  
Old 07-22-2010, 05:04 PM
Cam Cam is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lookin4SVX View Post
I am trying to figure out why the engine bay was so hot, yet temp gauge reading perfect normal medium.
On gauges like ours, they can develop a kind of "memory". The gauge is so used to sitting in the middle, it would take a spike in the signal to make it move. This is fixable by supplying a full 12v load to the gauge, and it should spike. Hold it there for 15 seconds or so and that should fix it. It's kind of like resetting it.
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  #39  
Old 07-22-2010, 06:36 PM
sowise sowise is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

Hey again, I still would have to agree it would be your strut mounts. Again they aren't hard to do and while not super cheap they aren't super expensive either. If you are looking to save money you could just do the mounts since you don't seem to complain or notice handling issues. I would have to say I wouldn't pay $2k for stock parts, that is just me though I would definitely look into upgraded aftermarket parts and someone may be able to hook you up with koni's for less than that, way better improvement over stock.
As for your EGR issue what it may be doing (not certain but just something to consider) is sending exhaust gas constantly to your intake manifold, this would potentially cause your whole intake manifold to heat up and also increase the combustion air temperature which hot air is less dense than warm air and could cause the car to run poorly also since it is exhaust gas and not just air it cuts down on the amount of oxygen and may also affect the way your engine is running. I believe for highway speed our valve is supposed to decrease EGR (I have a difficult time remembering which type of EGR valve we have). You may be able to pull your EGR off and clean it, I ordered new EGR valves from autocenter.net for about $138 the control valve is about $72. Also don't forget to make sure all your tubing is good and free of cracks and splits or completely broken as the older hoses tend to do.

Cosmetic issues. Depending on how much you want to fix them there are easy spot fixes or complete redo's paint jobs aren't super cheap but some people on the forum have done their own and others got decent deals. You could fix your own if you are willing to put in time sanding down the area properly. There are these pretty cool refillable paint spray canisters I believe home depot sells them. They don't hold alot of paint but you can cover a decent area with what they do hold. Basically turns any canned paint into a spray paint canister. Very cool actually and cheap since you don't need compressors and spray guns just excellent prep before painting and then attention to detail after painting by wet sanding and then applying clear coat. I know you can find the specific paint codes for your car on the site. You can have some paint made up and spot paint and clear coat areas that are needing attention.

Edit: Also your temp gauge should be reading coolant temp. not air temp though the extra heat will make your coolant a bit hotter or the cooling system less efficient it may not be enough to move the gauge if you have a properly working cooling system. Also Group N motor mounts would be a nice upgrade for the money hope you didn't spend too much on the used ones you bought.

Last edited by sowise; 07-22-2010 at 06:42 PM.
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  #40  
Old 07-23-2010, 04:51 PM
Lookin4SVX Lookin4SVX is offline
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Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

Thanks for the advice on the autocenter for the egr parts. I bought some stuff from them before. I got to see if I have any broken hoses or whatnots.
I just had the mechanic replace the PCV valve and all hoses connecting to that about 2000mi ago. I should have just had him replace every stupid hose under there..kicking myself now.

I have one of them PWR radiators in the car, never had a problem with the cooling system yet. Hopefully the coolant temp gauge is correct. Where would I apply 12v to the gauge? Do I do this at the sensor end? I am not really wanting to rip apart the dashboard. If I can do it from the sensor end, where is the sensor?

Far as the engine mounts go, nah i didn't pay very much, and I will need the set of brackets they came with to do the group N mounts anyways.
I knew it was a crap shoot buying used mounts, I just figured I give a shot and grab them with the brackets just in case they were actually in working condition.

Well apparently I have not learned my lesson yet because I am looking at a set of used WRX mounts for $20 shipped.
They look like the group N ones, they are square. I figure with the $20 investment in the WRX mounts, I can see if I can mod the brackets to accept the groupN mounts. I don't have a drill press to slot the holes, or a grinder to cut off whatever corner needs to be ground down, or a welder to the 1/4 plate mod, but my friend has a vice and a dremel and thinks thats is all we need if we just go slow. The lack of welder means I will be going the washers on the bolts route. If I can get the WRX mounts to fit the brackets properly with these limited tools, then I will spend the $140 on the groupN mounts.
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  #41  
Old 08-23-2010, 03:23 PM
bagheera223 bagheera223 is offline
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Exclamation Re: Another Guess That Noise Question...

OK - I have a possible cause for the sound - I have it on my SVX and also recognized it on my garaged (slipped timing belt) WRX. The WRX had this issue before my SVX (bought SVX because of timing belt issue above).

The sound is very possibly from a rear axle that is pulling out of the rear diff and causing a chattering sound as the circlip gives way and lets the axle start to pull loose - the teeth on the axle are hitting the diff gears incorrectly as it pulls out and makes the sound. Does it get worse with more weight in rear - then this is definitely the issue, IMHO. If it happens too much, the gears go on the axle and/or the diff (I had to replace both on the WRX).

Why does this happen? A) car has been lowered (like WRX), and axle is dropping down to mate with the diff - the greater the angle, the more likley this will happen. B) Springs are weak, can't hold up load C) too much weight in back (or a combination of any of these).

I hate these crappy R160 diffs! The R180 apparently doesn't have this issue.

So - in the interim, go to autozone or wherever and get some coil spring helpers and that will get you by (maybe). Also, keep weight out of the trunk and avoid anyone in the back seat (especially larger types).

I would think if you put the spring helpers in and tried the bounce in park deal it would either go away (the sound) or be much less. Let me know.
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