Overheating, First thing to do... try the HG Test.....

[Hocrest]

rear main crank seal, front cam seals, front crank seal...

[SoCal LS-L]

Machine shops are pretty varied in cost, id call around to get the best price. Id say around 80-100 bucks to steam clean and machine both heads, my toyota 22re cost 80 but it was just one, but larger than the eg33 heads.

[nsm484]

Update:

Well... I got a name of a Machine shop from a Subaru GL Owner, and says they do great/quality work. I will call and find out the nitty gritty this week.

Also, I've been driving the car to/from work, keeping the rpm's steady at 2k, with very small bursts to 2.5k from a dead stop. So far, the temp doesn't move from the middle as long as I do this.
Yes, I have found out any higher then this, and things start to boil

I will also find out tomorrow afternoon when I will be able to get my 5 days off to do this.

Anymore tips anyone can think of? I have a week (if I get my wished days off) or more (if I don't get my wished days off) to plan.

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by nsm484

Update:

Anymore tips anyone can think of? I have a week (if I get my wished days off) or more (if I don't get my wished days off) to plan.

Hmmmm id recommend a good easy listening cd or some spa music Its pretty much a certainty you are going to want to kill something at some point (points) during a HG repair and the music just might keep it limited to screaming expletives. Dont forget to take lots of pictures....... for reassembly... NOT for the memories

[nsm484]

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

Hmmmm id recommend a good easy listening cd or some spa music Its pretty much a certainty you are going to want to kill something at some point (points) during a HG repair and the music just might keep it limited to screaming expletives. Dont forget to take lots of pictures....... for reassembly... NOT for the memories

LOL, I don't know about Easy Listening ot Spa Music, but I got a ton of Vocal Trance just for something like this LOL

And yes, I got 4 camera's handy, and it will be for both, because I plan on making a few posts. Mite even take some "photo requests" while I have the engine out

[nsm484]

Well it looks like I have 2 more weeks or more to wait before I can get the time off needed to do this. I found another Subaru Owner who is selling an Engine Lift and Engine Stand, and I plan on picking these up here soon.

Anyone, off the top of their head, can give me a list of tools I will need for this? Other then the Torque Wrench of course... but is there anything else special I will need to do this job?

[nsm484]

Ok, I am finaly able to update this thread and get this going again.

Since my last post, the car as been parked, and hasn't moved.

I have not picked anything up from subaru in terms of parts... they are still waiting... But... I am going to have about $900 to play with to get me back up on the road.

Since the engine is going to be out. What should I go ahead and replace. the car just turned over to 100k. What Tom said on page one be enough?

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

TIming belt, water pump, Thermostat, thermostat gasket, engine seal kit, timing belt idlers. Looking at around $500+ in parts. There is no how-to, kinda just need to know how to do it honestly. Just gonna need the torque sequences and specs you can find in your basic Chilton/Haynes manual

Tom

I just got done helping my Bro-inlaw replace the head gasket on his '85 300ZX, so I have an idea of how to do it. I know its going to take alot of time, even more so since I can't get time off to do it all at once.

I will be doing this slowly on my days off, as I am a night owl and sleep most the day before work.

I will start another thread when I start removing the engine and beginning the teardown.

If I go ahead and grab the Chilton manual, does it give enough detail of the teardown/rebuild of what I need? (I know the 300zx manual did) I'd rather ask from someone with experience.

Also, if the parts listed above is all I really need, is there a cheaper place to get those instead of a dealer... and are they of equal/better quality?

Thanks for any info. I can't wait to get Calista back on the road

[Trevor]

At this point do not panic. Do not throw money at the problem without proving exactly what is the exact cause.

Post #1 -- (which is why at one point in the video, you hear the belt squeak)

Check the belt tension. If the belt is slipping. the pump could be running slow.

Post #6--- Its starting to get hot even comming to work (3/4 or higher on a 15 min drive) however the other day when I was geting my running done.... She was steady on the hot line... Then on the last 3 miles heading home she was in the red.... Then once I stoped at the house she droped back to the hot line before the red.... And I had alot of bubbling in the overflow tank.

The problem could be confined to the radiator cap and or thermostat. First off, test or replace both.

Any good shop should have a radiator cap tester. The thermostat can be simply tested, using an electric jug, or a pot on the stove. The valve within the thermostat, should open before the water reaches boiling point.

Best of luck, Trevor.

[redlightningsvx]

I had mine overheat when coming to a stop during my 12hr road trip. I had similar problems before and replaced the Tstat and rad cap with new OEM only to have them be defective. OT replaced the T-stat with an OEM and I got another cap and haven't had any problems since.

[Sean486]

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

I had mine overheat when coming to a stop during my 12hr road trip. I had similar problems before and replaced the Tstat and rad cap with new OEM only to have them be defective. OT replaced the T-stat with an OEM and I got another cap and haven't had any problems since.

And everybody was hell bent on trying to convince you that it was the Head Gasket. I'm glad you turned out to be right.

[redlightningsvx]

I no really???

[SoCal LS-L]

Post #4

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

Before you do anything crazy, go rent or buy a block tester kit. It consists of a hollow tube with a coned rubber plug you stick on top of your radiator cap hole, fill with this blue fluid, and run the engine watching for a change in the fluid color. If it turns yellow, bam, its a HG. Makes diagnosis way easier.

This is really worth a shot to try, may save you a LOT of work.

[nsm484]

I have a block tester, tried it a few times.... which I belive I posted before in this thread, Also, the day I parked her, out of no where she starting running oddly. I can't describe it as its been months since I've drivin her, but after that happened, after all the problems, and doing the block tester a few times which both came yellow within the 2nd pump of the tester.

Edit: I did post earlier in this tread about my block test... 2nd page:

Originally Posted by nsm484

Also, just to update... I did buy a Block Tester. I Syphoned my fluid out of the rad. just enough to make sure it didn't get sucked into the tester.
I did the test 3 times, going nice and easy on the ball as to not suck in air too fast, And each time... It changed to yellow fairly quickly.

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by Sean486

And everybody was hell bent on trying to convince you that it was the Head Gasket. I'm glad you turned out to be right.

Because it is... Patches work for a little while... In the end the remedy will be replacing the gasket if it has not been let go too far

Tom

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by nsm484

I have a block tester, tried it a few times.... which I belive I posted before in this thread,

Edit: I did post earlier in this tread about my block test... 2nd page:

I missed it in my skim-thru reread lol, I was the one prodding you to do it the whole time lol. Now that im back in the shop im tired much and look at far more different cars, i just spaced that I mentioned all this already. oops

And you dont have top describe the running oddly thing, most of us have seen it plenty of times. Its a bad feeling when you diag your own car with a headgasket leak