New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

[benebob]

Oh man, Rocket man agrees with me yet again!

Originally Posted by SVXRide

John,
Go back to Ben's comment regarding "upstream of fuses". My concerned would be the the shortened wires heating up/burning prior to the fuseable link going, as you can now - potentially - get more amps flowing through them with the upgraded alternator. Just something to consider.
-Bill

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Maybe I have been unclear.

I have not removed any of the fusible links from the system. All I have done is shortened the wires by about 2 feet, which were originally connected at the alternator post, and connected them straight to the battery.

With the normal wiring upgrade in place, measuring the normal voltage at the alternator post, where these wires were attached, was the same as at the battery terminal. It is getting the same current and voltage, just at a different junction. The original circuitry and fusible link protection has not been touched or removed-- just two pieces of old wire. We added new ring terminals to the original (same gauge) wire and connected them

I do not have mega-gazillion watt stereo amplifiers that need the extra current draw. I will be drawing the same current from this alternator as the stock one it replaced, to fulfill the requirements of our stock electrical system at any given time. I still have the 60A inline fuse in the main wire from the alternator to the battery as additional protection.

It just gives me the same amperages that I need, but at a lower RPM. At idle, with my turn signals operating, I do not hear the change in fan speed of my climate control like I used to.

If my car hasn't burned to a crisp by then, take a closer look at this at Reading. Even svxfiles had absolutely no concerns with this arrangement-- maybe he can shed some additional insights on this.

.

I did not suggest that you have removed the fusible link, but you have bypassed it in respect of the alternator sub wiring. You state in your original post:-

“I removed the two white wires and cut them back about two feet. One of these wires was factory-spliced into three wires close to the battery. I put new ring connectors on each of these wires and connected them straight to the battery.”

The original arrangement protected these circuits as they were subsequent circuit wise, to the fusible link. You did not answer my e-mail query, as to whether your faulty wiring was in fact original. If not this could have lead you astray with the rewiring and the desired connection via the fuse box and fusible link.

The heavy wiring you have correctly protected with a fuse and in respect of gauge should be OK. It is not at all likely that the heavy wiring could become overloaded to any dangerous extent due to the short length involved, possible voltage drop being the main concern.

Forget the sales blurb regarding oxygen free copper, however fine stranding providing good flexibility is worthwhile, as are good connections and mechanical robustness. In this regard you are much commended.

[processengr]

Hi !
I'm not clear on this...

• He up-sized the source from 95A to 160A .
• Removed all wires from the output of the 95A source
• Ran a up sized conduit (4ga) rated at 160A to a fuse (80A) through an area than would not be impinged upon in the event of a accident.
• Attached the wires that were previously attached to the 95A output alternator to the downstream 80A fuse...Whats not to like?

Originally Posted by benebob

Unfortunately this statement is compeltely wrong. A higher amp output alternator CAN harm your wiring harness drastically if not done properly. Any component downwind of all the properly gauged fuses will be fine as the fuses prevent more amps from flowing there BUT any wiring prior to a properly gauged fuse or fusable link (which is based on the wire size needed to transmit the amps flowing through the wire) is subject to overheating and failure if not changed to deal with the added amps from the new alternator.

If you don't believe me, why don't you change a 15 amp fuse to a 30 amp fuse and run a 30 amp component through those wires meant for a 15 amp component. I'll provide the Hershey bars, crackers and marshmellows you'll be providing the eventual fire. Would you like almonds or plain chocolate?

I'm fairly certain you are very much aware of this John as you're as anal as the best of us when it comes to your decisions. I'm also fairly sure that your circuits WILL be protected with a fusable link allowing only the factory specified amps to flow through any not upgraded in size wiring, however, not everyone is as anal nor willing to examine all aspects of the electrical system when changing it. A simple read of your plan doesn't specify exactly where and what is being changed. To do only part of what you're doing can and eventually will lead to an major issue once there is more draw then the wires can handle. Of course this is most likely to occur in cases of accidents or unprotected components grounding, not in your average day but a horrible day none the less.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by benebob

Oh man, Rocket man agrees with me yet again!

must be something in the air
-Bill

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by processengr

Hi !
I'm not clear on this...

• He up-sized the source from 95A to 160A .
• Removed all wires from the output of the 95A source
• Ran a up sized conduit (4ga) rated at 160A to a fuse (80A) through an area than would not be impinged upon in the event of a accident.
• Attached the wires that were previously attached to the 95A output alternator to the downstream 80A fuse...Whats not to like?

Stock wires from the alt ("white wires") were only shortened, not up-sized.
-Bill

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Stock wires from the alt ("white wires") were only shortened, not up-sized.
-Bill

But, they were not attached to the alternator, we attached them to the battery.
So they only see 12.6volts or whatever the battery produces.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by processengr

Hi !
I'm not clear on this...

• He up-sized the source from 95A to 160A .
• Removed all wires from the output of the 95A source
• Ran a up sized conduit (4ga) rated at 160A to a fuse (80A) through an area than would not be impinged upon in the event of a accident.
• Attached the wires that were previously attached to the 95A output alternator to the downstream 80A fuse...Whats not to like?

Yea!
What HE said!

[svxcess]

Photos are up.

Click HERE to go back to original post.

.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Trevor

The heavy wiring you have correctly protected with a fuse and in respect of gauge should be OK. It is not at all likely that the heavy wiring could become overloaded to any dangerous extent due to the short length involved, possible voltage drop being the main concern.

Why would I get a voltage drop on a shorter wire?

.

[Mike621]

I REALLY like the way it came out!

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Why would I get a voltage drop on a shorter wire?

.

My post infers that in deciding the gauge when replacing the heavy wiring, overloading should not be a likely concern and voltage drop would be the foremost issue to take into account. I did not say that YOU WOULD
get voltage drop, but only that this is the main concern to be taken into account; i.e. as you have done, as was pertinent in respect of the exercise.

Interestingly, any conductor has resistance and involves voltage drop to a degree, even though in practice this may be considered insignificant. Hence the super conductor research.

[SSSVX]

John, my first question will be like OT used to like to ask
Do you guys weigh the stock alternator compare to your high output alternator?
How many extra lbs do you put on or save? You're like increasing
68% output compare to the stock alternator? Do you keep a log of
your mileages? Does it drop down your gas mileage like 1~2 mpg?
Could you feel if the engine has more load from the higher output
alternator at different rpms? Your alternator is rated at 160A?
But at idle, how many amps would it produce? Do you also have
the info of how many amps does a stock SVX need of its entire electrical system?

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by SSSVX

John, my first question will be like OT used to like to ask
Do you guys weigh the stock alternator compare to your high output alternator?
How many extra lbs do you put on or save? You're like increasing
68% output compare to the stock alternator? Do you keep a log of
your mileages? Does it drop down your gas mileage like 1~2 mpg?
Could you feel if the engine has more load from the higher output
alternator at different rpms? Your alternator is rated at 160A?
But at idle, how many amps would it produce? Do you also have
the info of how many amps does a stock SVX need of its entire electrical system?

Ken,
The new alternator will weigh within grams of the old alternator.

Evan with the heavier wiring there is not a pound of weight differance.

I am sure that John knows his mileage.

The mileage would not drop at all. (In fact, because there is more electrical power available the coils MIGHT have more spark intencity making the car more fuel efficient.)

You could not feel the differance.

Just because there is a higher output alternator it does not mean there is more output.

It only provides the ability of higher output, when needed.

[subeman90]

looks very nice.

[SSSVX]

Good morning, OT

Ok, thank you.

I somehow have the concept (maybe is wrong) that a higher output
alternator will draw more power from the engine and so the gas mileage
might drop a bit. But, if you don't use that much, maybe it won't cause
any difference.