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  #1  
Old 02-21-2007, 05:09 PM
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What am I going to need (pic included)

So the "axle boot"? is torn my driver side wheel, and making all kinds of fun noises. The question is, barring any other unforseen problems, what parts am I going to be needing to replace/ what kind of service needs to be performed? Take a look at the pic and let me know. ThankS!

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  #2  
Old 02-21-2007, 05:14 PM
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Replace the axle. You can get rebuilts for ~$60.
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Old 02-21-2007, 05:21 PM
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anything else i could forseeably need?
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1992 Subaru SVX LS-L Ebony Mica: Custom Cold Air Intake, Smallcar Shift Kit, ECUtune Stage 1v4, Flowmaster Exhaust, UR underdrive pulley, 4.11 gears, iRotors Drilled and Slotted rotors, Axxis Brake Pads, 18" Enkei Wheels w/Pirelli Pzero Nero M+S, 20% Window Tinting, K&N Panel Filter, Rockford Fosgate Sound System w/XM Radio, Removed Intake Resonator *SOLD*

2003 Subaru WRX: 2003 Impreza WRX (Aspen White); Vishnu Stage II; IHI VF-34 Turbo; Walbro fuel pump, STi Injectors, Vishnu Up-pipe, Down-pipe and Signature 3" Cat-back; Samco Intercooler hoses; JIC Coilovers; STi A-arms; Whiteline swarbar bushings; Stoptech 13" rotors w/4-piston calipers; Braided Steel brake lines; 17" Rota Wheels with 225/45/17 Falken Azenis (R-Comp).
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Old 02-21-2007, 05:30 PM
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Not for that, the axle will come complete with the inner DOJ and boot, the outer CV and boot and a new axle nut.

www.cvaxles.com has gotten good reviews over at USMB if you can't find one locally.
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Old 02-21-2007, 05:35 PM
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on this page on subaruparts.com what am i going to need?

http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...ategory=280A-1
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1992 Subaru SVX LS-L Ebony Mica: Custom Cold Air Intake, Smallcar Shift Kit, ECUtune Stage 1v4, Flowmaster Exhaust, UR underdrive pulley, 4.11 gears, iRotors Drilled and Slotted rotors, Axxis Brake Pads, 18" Enkei Wheels w/Pirelli Pzero Nero M+S, 20% Window Tinting, K&N Panel Filter, Rockford Fosgate Sound System w/XM Radio, Removed Intake Resonator *SOLD*

2003 Subaru WRX: 2003 Impreza WRX (Aspen White); Vishnu Stage II; IHI VF-34 Turbo; Walbro fuel pump, STi Injectors, Vishnu Up-pipe, Down-pipe and Signature 3" Cat-back; Samco Intercooler hoses; JIC Coilovers; STi A-arms; Whiteline swarbar bushings; Stoptech 13" rotors w/4-piston calipers; Braided Steel brake lines; 17" Rota Wheels with 225/45/17 Falken Azenis (R-Comp).
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  #6  
Old 02-21-2007, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amazonparrot
on this page on subaruparts.com what am i going to need?

http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...ategory=280A-1
From this diagram;

Item 3;
28021PA061 Drive Shaft Ay Bj95 $368.72

Or you could get 1,4,6,7,7,5,6,8 and reuse your DOJ and rebuild your own for $233.30.

Or you could call CVaxles and get a quality rebuilt (same as item 3) for around $60.
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  #7  
Old 02-21-2007, 05:52 PM
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If the boot was torn and it wasn't making noise, you could possibly get by with cleaning, regreasing and replacing the boot. But once it starts to make noise, forget it.

If you search around enough, you may be able to find the components to rebuild the CV joint, but till you factor in the costs of both boots and the rebuild components and the grease, you might as well get a good rebuilt.
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  #8  
Old 02-21-2007, 06:05 PM
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well it actually was making noise, and has at least, for the moment, ceased..
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1992 Subaru SVX LS-L Ebony Mica: Custom Cold Air Intake, Smallcar Shift Kit, ECUtune Stage 1v4, Flowmaster Exhaust, UR underdrive pulley, 4.11 gears, iRotors Drilled and Slotted rotors, Axxis Brake Pads, 18" Enkei Wheels w/Pirelli Pzero Nero M+S, 20% Window Tinting, K&N Panel Filter, Rockford Fosgate Sound System w/XM Radio, Removed Intake Resonator *SOLD*

2003 Subaru WRX: 2003 Impreza WRX (Aspen White); Vishnu Stage II; IHI VF-34 Turbo; Walbro fuel pump, STi Injectors, Vishnu Up-pipe, Down-pipe and Signature 3" Cat-back; Samco Intercooler hoses; JIC Coilovers; STi A-arms; Whiteline swarbar bushings; Stoptech 13" rotors w/4-piston calipers; Braided Steel brake lines; 17" Rota Wheels with 225/45/17 Falken Azenis (R-Comp).
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  #9  
Old 02-21-2007, 06:07 PM
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Good luck finding someone to take the chance rebuilding yours as most mechiancs don't even bother anymore b/c it'll end up costing them just as much in the long run. Personally I wouldn't do it as its as messy as messy gets! Go for the quality rebuilt one from a place like Hocrest showed.
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:36 PM
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Remember also if you're planning to replace the boot you'll need access to the proper boot band crimping tool-- I've seen about three different types of bands, and found there's really no way to crimp them well without that tool. The last joint I rebuilt, I ended up taking to an axle shop just to get a band put on-- cost me $10 and next time I'll probably just get a rebuilt axle.
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  #11  
Old 02-21-2007, 06:37 PM
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got my 2 fronts done for $130.00 each. the guys not even a Subi machanic. He said it was easy
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  #12  
Old 02-21-2007, 07:30 PM
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It is very easy the 2nd time you do it. The first time you learn the tricks.

One pain in the butt is you have to remove the wheel to take the axle nut dust cover off, then put the wheel back on and lower the car to the ground to be able to break the axle nut loose. Then raise the car back up to replace the axle.

You are going to need a very long pipe to go over your socket wrench/breaker bar when you try to loosen that axle nut.

Don't bother with a pickle fork to separate the ball joint. Instead just take off the 3 nut/bolts that hold the entire thing on. It could save you from ripping the dust cover boot.

You'll need a punch or a small allen wrench to push out the pin that holds the axle on to the differential.

The lower suspension arm is spring loaded (or something in there at least that makes it push upwards) Use a long lever bar to push down on it after you loosen the ball joint nuts. I usually use a 4 foot long pipe and push it down and then kneel on it - that way both of my hands are free to pull out on the hub to get it free from the axle. Once you get the hub out of the way the axle will slide right out.

Make sure you use a torque wrench on the axle nut when you put it back on. If you don't torque it properly you could destroy your bearings.


Anyone else have any tips? I'd love to hear them.
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  #13  
Old 02-22-2007, 09:04 AM
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Tools

You need a 32mm socket to get the axle nut off. Also, a torque wrench to put it back on. This can be rented. Suggest using the lowest torque spec to prevent over tightening and messing up the bearing.

Go to AutoZone and get their rebuild. It will last longer than you will own the car and cost a fraction of a new one from Subaru.

Lee
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  #14  
Old 02-22-2007, 02:52 PM
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would this work:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=945&ptset=A

or this :

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...%7ENONE%7C%7EV
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1992 Subaru SVX LS-L Ebony Mica: Custom Cold Air Intake, Smallcar Shift Kit, ECUtune Stage 1v4, Flowmaster Exhaust, UR underdrive pulley, 4.11 gears, iRotors Drilled and Slotted rotors, Axxis Brake Pads, 18" Enkei Wheels w/Pirelli Pzero Nero M+S, 20% Window Tinting, K&N Panel Filter, Rockford Fosgate Sound System w/XM Radio, Removed Intake Resonator *SOLD*

2003 Subaru WRX: 2003 Impreza WRX (Aspen White); Vishnu Stage II; IHI VF-34 Turbo; Walbro fuel pump, STi Injectors, Vishnu Up-pipe, Down-pipe and Signature 3" Cat-back; Samco Intercooler hoses; JIC Coilovers; STi A-arms; Whiteline swarbar bushings; Stoptech 13" rotors w/4-piston calipers; Braided Steel brake lines; 17" Rota Wheels with 225/45/17 Falken Azenis (R-Comp).
Charlottesville, VA Represent! (voted #1 place in America to live!)

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Last edited by Amazonparrot; 02-22-2007 at 02:55 PM.
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  #15  
Old 02-22-2007, 04:30 PM
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I'd be leary Amazon, have heard that the SVX axle they sell isn't the right one. My mechanic went through 3 before going with a legacy axle and said it wasn't real good on the quality.
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