something happen need help if anyone knows what to do.

sorry... got double posted

just need to do something about these brakes. i hit 120 the other night on the freeway and i was tapping the brakes and the e-brake and i had no front brakes what so ever. i was sooo pissed cuz i bout those raybestos brake pads from dayle and the slotted and drilled rotors from him and the squeek and it is soo embarassing so i have to slam on the brakes real quick so they done squeek.

I was told that new brakes always squeak a bit at first. You're supposed to drive a bit more conservatively for the first 500-600 km or so (300-400 miles) and avoid any hard braking and not "test" the brakes by slamming them excepting emergency situations. If you've been braking hard since the install of the new rotors, then they might well squeak forever.

I got new brakes recently which were squeaky at first, but it's gone now.

[Noir]

Originally Posted by Bipa

I was told that new brakes always squeak a bit at first. You're supposed to drive a bit more conservatively for the first 500-600 km or so (300-400 miles) and avoid any hard braking and not "test" the brakes by slamming them excepting emergency situations. If you've been braking hard since the install of the new rotors, then they might well squeak forever.

I got new brakes recently which were squeaky at first, but it's gone now.

weird. i thought the same until reading the suggested 'curing' process from the manufacture by accelerating to 40mph-ish and then stopping. do it a few times to 'heat-cure' the rotors and pads???

anyway, i've tried a few brakes and the OEM ones are the quietest by far. all of the rest of them squealed. the set i put on not too long ago didn't squeek for about a month. it just started squeeking and i think it'll get louder. guess i could try some of that gunk you put on it to help keep it quiet.

120mph? i hope it wasn't in the city and on some empty desert road. trying to slam on your brakes at that speed probably wouldn't be a good idea. i could be wrong though.

[awdsvxh6]

it was on the interstat at night and no one was on it so i figured y not i dought im gonna get another chance. i wasn't slamming on the i was like tap tap tap so it woulden't heat up the brake fluid but i dont know. when i hit the brakes in the road they stop on a dime like it is nothing but when i am moving faster i really have to get on them and it kinda scares me sometimes.

[Crazypolo95]

Yeah so who knows what’s the best thing to do and were to get the parts or what ever? Cuz if I have to change the brake line I’ll get new brake when I’m at it

Did a little reading on the internet. Here's what I came up with. Seems Noir and I are both right, in a way Since I drive a lot on the autobahn at high speeds of 100+ mph, I suppose that my "normal" braking pattern will bed the brake pads just fine

Rotor seasoning, why and how
No, this isn't done with salt and pepper, seasoning is how you prepare a new rotor for service. Seasoning will bake out the oils and solvents used to manufacture the rotor and will also even the temper of the rotor, increasing its life, improving its wear characteristics, and lessening its tendency to warp. Seasoning is performed by GENTLY heat cycling the rotors several times. For street cars, this is best done over a 2 or 3 day period. Drive the car normally, avoid panic stops, get the brakes warm but not smoking hot. Allow the brakes to cool to ambient temp to complete each heat cycle. Avoid holding the brake pedal down or setting the parking brake when the rotors are hot, this promotes uneven cooling of the rotor surface which can lead to uneven tempering.

Again, the key phrase here is 'gentle heat cycling'. If you go to the trouble and expense to put on new pads and rotors and then go out and immediately HAMMER the brakes, you're wasting your time and money.

Now that the rotors are seasoned, the brake pads, if they are new, can be bedded.

Bedding my brake pads, what will my spouse think?
Since pad bedding (sometimes called burnishing) can be done on the public roads, your spouse shouldn't mind all that much. Bedding is necessary to get the maximum performance from any metallic compound brake pad. During bedding, the pad releases excess gasses from its hardeners and organic bonding agents. Bedding also tempers and cures the friction material so that it will withstand future agressive use with minimum fade.
Find a location where you can accelerate up to 60 MPH, brake heavily to 5 MPH, and then repeat this cycle several times (usually 5 to 7) until the brakes fade significantly. If done properly, the brakes will smell and may smoke somewhat, that's why bedding is often referred to as "letting the smoke out". Now, drive for 10 minutes or so, at highway speed, utilizing as little braking as possible. Park the car overnight, allowing the brakes to cool to ambient, again, don't set the parking brake, especially if you've put new pads or rotors on the rear.

BTW, if you bought cheap rotors, with poor temper, they will probably warp during pad bedding, so sorry.

Some pads come pre-burnished, the manufacturer has baked the pad to drive off the organics and cure the bonding agents. These pads don't need to be bedded, but it won't hurt anything if you do it anyway, bedding also helps to carbon-load the rotor surface, improving brake effectiveness.

Note about carbon-loading: if you change from carbon-compounded brake pads to pads with no carbon content, you'll need to change the rotors. The surface carbon loading on the rotors can make non-carbon content pads somewhat ineffective, i.e. NO STINKIN' BRAKES!

From: http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html

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Longer and more detailed description:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Caution: When you've just installed new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in almost no braking power. Gently apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.

When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.

From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this couple of times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors. (Note: With some less aggressive street pads, you may need to do fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

The brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.

If club race pads, such as Hawk Blue, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT 14, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.


Have you voted today?

[Crazypolo95]

Yeah I started the car up today after looking at the engine. And what I found out was that the battery was die danm that suck that is any other thing to add to the new parts list. Danm. But wanted to ask everyone I can out sti brake on a SVX right. Or any other parts

[NikFu S.]

You want to put STi brakes onto an SVX? Personally I don't see the point. The SVXs brakes were designed to handle the weight and potential speed of the car, and in my opinion suit the vehicle just dandy.

As for other parts, sure you could put a filter in there, the bench spoiler, the seats, steering wheel, turbo (good lucking making it work), intercooler...

Again, not sure why anyone would do such a thing. I'd personally install things that are specifically designed for the SVX.

The SVXs brakes were designed to handle the weight and potential speed of the car, and in my opinion suit the vehicle just dandy.

Perhaps the stock brakes are good enough for driving in North America, but they definitely don't give enough stopping power for us here in Germany. To be honest, I believe the majority of brake complaints that Subaru has gotten over the years about the SVX come from Germany due to our unique driving conditions.

Brakes are the only "mod" we've done to this car, and it was really more of a necessity rather than an optional enhancement.