Replacing the timing belt!

It's my first post! I'll be driving an SVX for the next few days since I blew my mustangs transmission up and my corvette's transmission, so until I get one fixed, I'll be paying a favor to my friend, who has an SVX. I told him I would go ahead and replace the timing belt and a few other things for him to get it back to running condition. My question is on the timing belt, what will I need to get clocked in? I assume of course both cams and the crank have hash marks to where to line them up to, is that correct? Is there any counter shafts or anything else I need to be concerned with? Anyone have some pictures or how-tos for this one?


let me know! And thanks for your input.

And yes, I just realized I put this in the wrong forum.

But I definately need some info still!

[ensteele]

Welcome to the site. Good luck with the repairs.

I moved it to the proper forum for you.

[mbtoloczko]

I'm working on a complete "how-to" for the timing belt and water pump (which would be good to replace while you're down there). Its not quite done, but I can send you what I have. Send me a PM with your email, and I'll send it to you by email.

[Earthworm]

Until the howto is done try a little searching. It would also be a good idea to replace the seals and inspect/replace the belt idlers while in there.

The belt idler is what went nuts, I'm replacing the idler and the belt, he didnt mention any problems with the water pump so I'm not going to worry about it. Do the cams/crank have hash marks to set them on the right tooth?

[mbtoloczko]

Yep, engine case, the cam sprockets, the crank sprocket, and the belt all have alignment marks. The water pump begins to become a suspect item after 100k miles, esp if the cooling system hasn't been well maintained. The pump is right down there behind the timing belt, and its not that much more work to do the pump.

[Beav]

Don't forget that the water pump can sieze and jerk the bejeesus out of the belt system, causing immediate failure of all the idlers and tensioner. I've seen it happen and it ain't purty - a bunch o' ugly dollar signs.

Still no help at all honestly. The how-to is incomplete, its good though, it just dosent even get me to where I'm at. I need to know how you line the cams and crank up, and if theres anything special to do outside of a normal timing belt replacement.

I answered my own question!

http://www.ryanmacdonald.com/car/howto/belt/belt.html

there you go future timing belt searchers

[Beav]

One of the easiest belts to replace. Covers off. Remove tensioner and belt. Align marks on cams to cover, crank to mark near TDC. Compress tensioner in vise and pin. Install tensioner, leaving bolts slightly loose. Remove idler below tensioner. Install belt. Marks on belt match cams and crank when installed correctly. When belt is installed you can now reinstall removed idler (tough to install belt without removing the idler.) A couple clothespins help to hold belt on cams. Lightly pry tensioner towards tensioner pulley and tighten bolts. Remove pin from tensioner. Engine should now start (no need to go crazy, just make sure it starts and runs for a couple secs), if it does, shut it off and re-check marks. If o.k. button it back up. Simple.

beav, thank you sir, excellent help, thats exactly what I wanted to know, how that tensioner piston worked.

[Hocrest]

Originally Posted by 5.0_CJ

beav, thank you sir, excellent help, thats exactly what I wanted to know, how that tensioner piston worked.

I've heard that it needs to be compressed in a vice slowly. Over a period of a few minutes or so??

That's the way I've always done it, not sure if it's necessary or not????

[Beav]

Just don't go crazy and think you need to exert superhuman force. Full compression in a 5" vice probably takes ~30 seconds. Just a steady pressure on the handle.