A Couple of mystery problems

#1 07-26-2005, 06:34 PM

So I have had some problems with my SVX for a while (almost a year) and the dealership I go to has never done me wrong and are the only people I really trust with my car, but they have been as yet unable to help me with these particular problems.
Problem #1 - Sometimes she doesn't start. Don't know why, but every once in a while and more often when it is hot, I turn the key and I only hear a click. Radio and lights and everything but the engine turn on. When this happens, if I sit really quietly (not screaming with rage and confusion), I can hear a light gurgling noise somewhere behind and beneath me. Like air is escaping through a wet pipe. Also, sometimes when this happens if I turn off my headlights she will start right up, if that doesn't work I try putting my foot on the gas pedal or the brake or turning the key with the door open, or a combination of any of those and she will start. But the trick that works most often is if I turn the key and nothing happens, I will hold the key in the start position and turn off the headlights. For some reason that works best. If none of that stuff works I just keep trying every 10 - 15 seconds or so and within 5 minutes I am back on the road. But it is quite frustrating and the dealership just keeps telling me that it doesn't happen when they start the car so they have no way of finding out what is wrong.
Problem #2 - Funky acceleration. 90% of the time (every once in a while god smiles on me and allows me to drive normally) when I hit the accelerator, she will barely creep forward from idle to about 2200 rpms, and after that everything jumps into action. This is a huge problem when I am turning left and try to go through a perfect sized gap but I just creep through the intersection and almost get broadsided, and once I am out of the intersection she jumps forward. Once again the dealership has no answer for this, last time they tried to tell me that it was my transmission reacting to the cold weather, it was 100 degrees all week last week, and I had no improvements. I have put fuel system cleaner through it, and that did nothing.
Problem #3 - Terrible fuel economy. I have been averaging 14 to 16 mpg on every tank. I heard the SVX is supposed to get 18 to 21. The best I have ever got was 17.3 when I drove across the state and back. And with gas prices so high it really hurts to fill up an 18 gallon tank 3 times a month.
Any help on any of these problems would be greatly appreciated.

-Nate

kuoh · #2 07-26-2005, 07:01 PM

For #1, see this thread. Although there are other possible causes, this one seems the most common.

For #2, search for the noise suppressor crush mod. Not guaranteed to work, but has helped some.

For #3, is that with or without AC? My 92 @ 250k+ still gets 20+ in normal mixed driving and has only now occasionally dipped below 18 in city driving with AC on, and this is with the original O2 sensors. New plugs, O2 sensors, 90 octane or better gas and possibly a tune up are about all I can think of to suggest.

KuoH

immortal_suby · #3 07-26-2005, 07:43 PM

Any stored ECU codes?
Fixing #3 will probably help #2 quite a bit.
14 mpg is horrible. Something is very wrong but we need more info to try and diagnose.

Beav · #4 07-26-2005, 07:59 PM

The occasional gurgling noise is normal. The SVX has a saddle-style gas tank and employs a jet pump (venturi action) to transfer fuel from one side to the other. Sometimes a bit of air is mixed with the fuel and you'll hear the gurgling.

The lag/rush indicates you must have a '92 or '93. I had a '92 in '92 and it did the same on occasion. The lag, for me, was never severe but the rush could be surprising. As Kuo stated, check into the bead crush TSB.

The starter condition indicates a voltage drop. This can occur in several places - the battery cables/connections, the ignition switch or the neutral start (inhibitor) switch. There is also a starter interrupt relay that the security module controls that could be a problem but nobody has ever found it to be the cause.

So, how does one check voltage drops? First you'll need a voltmeter and probably a helper to turn the ignition switch, unless you have really long arms. A voltage drop is measured on any circuit by placing one lead from a volt meter at the power source and the other lead at the load. The circuit has to be active to measure the drop, in other words the load has to be active (headlights on, starter engaged, etc. depending on the circuit.) To check the positive battery cable you would place one lead on the battery post and the other lead on the starter post where the battery cable bolts on. Have someone turn the switch to 'start' and observe the volt meter. For a starter circuit up to 5vdc voltage drop is acceptable, less is better (if the volt meter goes negative reverse the leads.) Other 12v automotive circuits should read less than .5vdc drops. If the positive cable reads o.k. check the ground cable in similar fashion (battery post to engine block.) If the positive cable exceeded 5v try stabbing one lead into the cable insulation an inch or two away from the battery, leaving the other lead attached to the post. If you still show the same drop you have a bad cable to battery connection.

If the cables check out o.k. you'll need to check the voltage at the small terminal on the starter (the other lead on the battery.) When the key is in the 'start' position the voltage shown on the meter should read less than .5v, if it's more then you need to work backwards toward the ignition switch. At this point a wiring diagram will be handy, check my locker, there may be one in there. Otherwise shout out and I'm sure someone here can help you out.

msvx95 · #5 07-27-2005, 04:33 AM

I also notice the gurguling sound as well when I turn the ignition without starting the car. I want to say it's normal and that the fuel pump is working at that moment before the car is actually started.

94svxred · #6 07-27-2005, 06:58 AM

I hope you get it fixed .

I have no clue

Good luck !!

#7 07-27-2005, 11:01 PM

Well, Kuoh and Beav, I appreciate the help but it was all a bit much for my simple brain to handle. I'm not saying I am stupid, but I have only ever been able to really understand the basics of the inner-workings of the automibile. So I wouldn't trust myself doing anything that complex to a car as finicky as mine. I have been seriously considering having a 5spd put in early next year, and I am hoping that might do something to improve problems 2 and 3. Problem #2 hasn't always been there though. It started around January, but I had no problems before that. If it is only because I own a 92 I might trade her in for a newer model, but I really like this one. I don't want to spend the money on the 5spd if I will never be able to accelerate from a stop properly. And I filled up my tank last night and I got 17.3 mpg. The best I have had for not highway driving since I bought it.

odepaj · #8 07-28-2005, 02:08 PM

Problems 2 & 3 could also be the MAF sensor or an ignition coil gone south. I had both of those go out on my '92 and it was hell, I had very poor acceleration (mini-vans would pass me) and I had even worse mileage. Those are just 2 possibilities, a faulty ignition coil will make the engine run very rough though, so if yours is still smooth I would doubt a coil to be the problem.

dustin

#9 07-29-2005, 02:36 AM

fuel pump or fuel related problem. change filter up under the hood first 30 bones and easy to do (bring butter). i had a simalir problem with my need not to mention chevy blazer. it finally got to were it would not start with the same symptoms. u can at least here yours. that thing was a bad mystery for 3 to 4 weeks. i replace bat starter plugs alt and finally fuel pump that was the culpret the whole time. big watse of money. have not heard of pumps on the svx going bad but anything can happen. if it is bad to a kick azz strong powerful pump mod while u are in there.

Beav · #10 07-29-2005, 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCROGUEDOG

fuel pump or fuel related problem. change filter up under the hood first 30 bones and easy to do (bring butter). i had a simalir problem with my need not to mention chevy blazer. it finally got to were it would not start with the same symptoms. u can at least here yours. that thing was a bad mystery for 3 to 4 weeks. i replace bat starter plugs alt and finally fuel pump that was the culpret the whole time. big watse of money. have not heard of pumps on the svx going bad but anything can happen. if it is bad to a kick azz strong powerful pump mod while u are in there.

Too bad you didn't ask about the Blazer, that's a well known problem. If the pump doesn't produce a least 51 psi they won't start.

#11 07-29-2005, 12:43 PM

it was totalled shortly after.

rayford · #12 07-29-2005, 07:12 PM

I am having a problem with my remote starter, sometimes it will work fine and other times the solenoid will only click. but the car starts everytime using the key. This is the second remote module I have installed because the last one did this and I figured it was a bad module but this one does the same thing,, I have checked all my add on connections I made when installing the remote starter and they are all testing good. I am inclined to believe it has something to do with the connections from either the positive or the negative from the battery to the solenoid, what is throwing me off on that idea is the fact it starts with the key just fine, however, I have noticed the ignition switch seems a little loose, but again it works fine using the key,, I am wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem? when the remote works it is great, cranks till the car starts even if it is a little slow in starting at times.. anyway,, any help will be appreciated, Thanks Vernon..

NikFu S. · #13 07-29-2005, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayford

I am wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem?

Mine has been like that that since I got it. It has nothing to do with the starter.
Sometimes on mine it will depend on whether the doors are locked or not, and simply will not autostart if the hood is popped (safety precaution).
Check your hood pop sensor.

kuoh · #14 07-29-2005, 08:08 PM

Yup, my DEI 551T has been doing that for awhile now. I started to have problems with the keys as well a couple of years later, and have just replaced the ignition switch, so I know that's not the cause. If I wait a few minutes and try again, it often catches and starts right up. I'm thinking that it's either the relay on the remote starter module or the starter kill relay. I'm planning to bypass the starter kill next and see if that helps.

The good news is at least the ignition switch is back to 100%, so I don't have to look like a fool anymore clicking the ignition on and off half a dozen times everytime I get gas.

KuoH

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayford

I am having a problem with my remote starter, sometimes it will work fine and other times the solenoid will only click. but the car starts everytime using the key.

kuoh · #15 07-29-2005, 08:12 PM

If it were a safety shutdown sensor, the module won't even try to engage, thus no blinkie lights and no click.

KuoH

Quote:

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

Sometimes on mine it will depend on whether the doors are locked or not, and simply will not autostart if the hood is popped (safety precaution).
Check your hood pop sensor.