Can we get rid of the thermostat??

[Hocrest]

In the racecar, we are having some issues with running warm. We have short spurts of hammering on the engine, followed by 20 minutes sitting in the pits waiting for the next run. Right now we have one fan, and we're looking for ways to aid in the cooling process.

What would happen if we completely removed the thermostat or replaced it with a cooler one (if they exist)? I've also heard in the past of just using a "washer" that would always be open, but provide some restriction???

A mechanic that races trucks advised Ben against it because it would confuse the sensors and ECU. During the winter it probably won't be seeing as much action, and we can put it back in.

Some other thoughts are;

• creating more "grill area" in the front
• adding a scoop and/or vents to the hood
• add another fan
• look for a different radiator that may provide more cooling power (we have slightly more space than stock)

[SVXer95]

I would definintely try to attack your 'Other Thoughts' before trying to delete the thermostat.

[dcarrb]

I can't say how this would translate to an SVX, but I drove a Legacy with no thermostat, and in my normal commute it took quite awhile to even approach normal operating temperature. Some say the cooling system actually "needs" the restriction imposed by the thermostat. That makes no sense to me, but hey, I'm no mechanical engineer, and can only relate that my Legacy was perfectly content without one. But again, that's not an SVX.

As to "confusing" the ECU, it won't mind; it'll just read the engine's temperature as usual and react accordingly.

dcb

[ssnsltd]

Basically heat=power.
There is an optimal temperature for each engine run at. The SVX was designed to run at 190. If you take out the thermostat the computer will try to adjust other things to compensate.

This is a pretty good basic article
on the cooling system.

[benebob]

Yeah like this one runs at 190 for more than its first run . Then its 220 the rest of the way

[ssnsltd]

If he is drag racing it is a bit different, sorry.

I assume you tried just water and water wetter (Purple ice etc.) ? Antifreeze is not doing you any good if you are just drag racing. It actually inhibits the cooling systems ability to remove heat.

I'll throw in my two cents.


Engines run better, are more fuel efficient, and produce less pollutants at certain temperatures. The job of the thermostat is to force the engine to heat up to that optimum temperature as soon as possible by staying closed until the engine temp starts to rise. It can then open and close as necessary to maintain that optimum temp.

Taking it out would force your engine to run outside of this optimum temp range for much longer than it normally would.

I would agree with the mechanic.



Dave

[thundering02]

Maybe you could set to a colder thermostat as I know you gan get anything from 150* to 200* for a small block GM. Just thinking that maybe it'll keep it closer without fully "playing" with things

[mbtoloczko]

The engine gets warm during the runs, and then when it sits after the run, the one fan does not efficiently pull off the waste heat. Adding a cooler thermostat probably wouldn't help. I'd suggest either adding another fan, or if you haven't done it already, add an engine oil cooler and thermostat-controlled fan for it. I've been planning to do this for a while for my own car. Some companies make some nice sandwich adapters (only 3/4" to 1" tall) that go in the spin-on filter location. Stick the oil cooler in the left side fenderwell, and cut out a nice scoop in the bottom of the fender to direct air into the cooler. That will probably add enough cooling capacity to keep your engine cooler during the runs and help cool it off when sitting between runs. Also, are you allowed to pop the hood while waiting between runs?

[SVXRide]

Ben/Dave,
I'm with Mychailo on this. I'd add the following - 1. cut the front bumper out in front of the radiator to expose as much of the radiator as possible, 2. get some Al flashing and create a "tunnel" that feeds the radiator (i.e. the idea here is to not let any air bleed around the radiator), 3. think about popping in the second fan while you're waiting beween runs, 4. get a 2 gallon pressure sprayer (the kind that you use to spray fertilizer, weed killer, etc.) and spray the radiator down between runs - you can also use it to spray the tires down between runs so they don't get slippery due to overheating.
-Bill

[benebob]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Ben/Dave,
I'm with Mychailo on this. I'd add the following - 1. cut the front bumper out in front of the radiator to expose as much of the radiator as possible, 2. get some Al flashing and create a "tunnel" that feeds the radiator (i.e. the idea here is to not let any air bleed around the radiator), 3. think about popping in the second fan while you're waiting beween runs, 4. get a 2 gallon pressure sprayer (the kind that you use to spray fertilizer, weed killer, etc.) and spray the radiator down between runs - you can also use it to spray the tires down between runs so they don't get slippery due to overheating.
-Bill

Can't cut the bumper for an E Prepared (but you can take it off completely.

We currently remove the hood between runs, it heats up during the runs and doesn't get a chance to cool back down.

Can't use a pressure sprayer on the engine- enviromental issues Can do the tires (and we do try to do that.

Fans simply add weight (esp to a front that is already well overweight). Trying to come up with solutions that don't add weight but will actually take it away.

I actually bought a bottle of water wetter today to throw in tomorrow but it's kinda cool now and we only have one driver tomorrow as both Dave and I can't stomach straight line driving.


Hocrest's description of the additional space is a little deceiving. I'd say we could fit a 6 inch wide radiator in there now w/o much issue. I've actually been eying similar sized rads in the junkyards. It looks like a 240 (no Ron the REAL 240 as in Volvo) radiator is VERY similar!!! Only bad thing is it is made for a crank fan.

[michael]

You might have some hot spots on the radiator where your single fan can't reach. Could you use your windshield squirters to spray on either side of the fan, of course assuming you still have a resivoir and sprayers. SVXRide mentioned AL flashing too that might help on the top of the rad if you don't have the factory foam. I wouldn't use it on the sides because you would block the air to the intake. Also a good flush might help remove possible calcium build up.

[SVXRide]

So, take the bumper off!!
-Bill

[michael]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

So, take the bumper off!!
-Bill

True, that thing weighs a ton!

[benebob]

Originally Posted by michael

True, that thing weighs a ton!

Bumper is gone, the bumper cover is not. Heck if we took the bumper cover off though we might as well race an Impreza WRX or the like b/c obviously looking good going fast isn't a concern.