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  #1  
Old 01-23-2004, 11:21 AM
charlie charlie is offline
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power window

My thanks to all who previously posted on the sleeve lock regulator, especially Lee whose step by step instructions made this a very quick and cheap fix. Now, does anyone know how to adjust the p/w cable? Mine has too much play - the window clunks hard into the bottom of the window assembly when lowered. It's done this before and after new regulator but if i can adjust it now while door panel is off that would be great (am also going to replace door speakers now). Thanks for the help. This is a great network!
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  #2  
Old 01-23-2004, 11:41 AM
JLittell
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I'm egar for a response.. Mine does that 'clunk' too!
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  #3  
Old 01-23-2004, 01:30 PM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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someone tell us what the hell that is and what can be done about it
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  #4  
Old 01-23-2004, 02:44 PM
lee lee is offline
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first thanks Charlie.

next, although I've not done it, there are adjusters at the motor. not sure if these will cure the problem or not, I just saw them there since I've had my doors off so many times for power lock problems, sleeve lock breakage, and stereo speaker installs.
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  #5  
Old 01-23-2004, 10:53 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Mine clunks too! Lee, get out there and get us an answer!

Charlie - if you know the thread that tells about fixing it, send me the link and I will try to get something into the How-To Locker.
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  #6  
Old 01-24-2004, 10:30 PM
charlie charlie is offline
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Here is a link to the fix it by Lee http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...threadid=10854
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  #7  
Old 01-25-2004, 03:23 AM
James Scott James Scott is offline
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TIGHTEN THIS!

After you get the clippy in place, you can tighten the cable by unlocking the adjustment locknut (on top of motor, toward front of car, where cable is going up), then turning (long hexagonal) adjustment nut until cable slack is taken up (or until adjustment nut will tighten no more [mine wouldn't tighten totally]). Retighten locknut, then cable should be less likely to come off or to cause thumping. Also, there is a small rubber stopper at bottom of door where bottom edge of door glass rests when window is down. Mine was very funky! You can probably fabricate from other rubber part (new or old) laying around, so you don't have to order it (glue with contact or weatherstripping type cements). These repairs worked good for me. Hope this helps!
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Last edited by James Scott; 01-25-2004 at 03:28 AM.
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  #8  
Old 01-25-2004, 06:41 AM
lee lee is offline
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thanks Jim,

I did consider going out to mine & trying it, then I remembered both my interior door panels are entirely covered in Dynamat, so I would have had to rip that off first.
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2004, 01:07 PM
charlie charlie is offline
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Jim, thanks for the suggestion. My door panel is still off so I will try this as soon as it stops snowing, sleeting and icing here in NJ. I'll let you know how it works. Thanks
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  #10  
Old 01-26-2004, 03:52 PM
James Scott James Scott is offline
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1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13)
2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011)
Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme!
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