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  #1  
Old 01-17-2004, 01:51 AM
nextcubepro
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Repaint AGAIN...

Geting another free Earl Scheib paint job in the summer. Yes, after only 3 months, the black is peeling, and i'm going back to the original color, but a little darker. But THIS time, i'm doing the prep work so the paint sticks. Here's my question:

I plan to hand sand it to perfect adhesion texture and smoothness, but how? Should I go down to the metal? I ask because the brochure of the 92 SVX says the metal is zinc coated to prevent rust, so how far down in the sanding do I go so as not to remove the rust protection, or is it built into the metal. I don't want to remove the zinc coating. Any ideas? Anyone ever do this?

Last edited by nextcubepro; 01-17-2004 at 01:53 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-17-2004, 02:20 AM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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when doing body work like that deffinately don't go down to raw metal unless you absolutly have to. try to get it down to the original primer. Don't it metal unless nessesary.
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  #3  
Old 01-17-2004, 06:47 PM
nextcubepro
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Quote:
Originally posted by tomssvx
when doing body work like that deffinately don't go down to raw metal unless you absolutly have to. try to get it down to the original primer. Don't it metal unless nessesary.
How can I tell when i'm down to the primer?
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2004, 07:36 PM
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CDG CDG is offline
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go thru the last colour, then the original colour, then you will most likely see a grey colour, gray will be the primer. most primers are pastel shades of grey, green, red, blue, orange....

but the plastic parts on the bottom are different, may not have any primer that you can see. Anyone else with experience sanding to primer????
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2004, 10:03 PM
boundsie
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Oh, boy do I ever know about what it looks like under the paint. I just finished three weeks of work to repaint mine. Actually I still have some work to do but at least I finished shooting paint today. If you start sanding your car, you have to decide what you plan to do. If you just need to scuff the original paint for a repaint, I'd just wet sand it with 400. If you need to do any body work, you'll have to go further. I dry sanded mine down to color or primer with 80 grit, primed, wet sanded with 320, reprimed, wet sanded with 400. Blah, blah, blah. Anyway, when you sand, you first are sanding clear. When you hit the color, it is a VERY thin coat. Under that is gray primer that's not too thick either. Then metal. My plastic was primed with gray also.
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  #6  
Old 01-17-2004, 10:32 PM
nextcubepro
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Wow...very nice job on the repaint and thanks for the info. Basically, i'm just going to be sanding down the car, removing all the trim (and cleaning that and wetsanding the headlights), and having a cheapo place spray a darker version of claret on it for free.

See, if you look at my first thread I ever did in these forums, it was about the situation. Basically, Earl Scheib told me they'd make my car "like new" in any color I wanted for $650. I decided to do it because the car had been repainted before to this hideous plymouth prowler purple, and it needed to go. Car looked great in gunmetal gray for a week till the paint started peeling from the doors and bumpers. Hmm...I said. So I *****ed at them for a full repaint at another shop. I went to the other shop, and they were like OMG we're so sorry this happened. So they said they would repaint it, but this time I wanted metallic black. So they did it. When I went to pick it up, the car looked phenomenal...no runs, overspray, or orange peel, and they informed me that the place that originally painted it for me did a huge rush job ecause they were closing shop 2 days after I picked up the car (!!). Fast foreward 2 months. All of the paint around the wheel wells is peeling, and guess what...THE SECOND PLACE DIDN'T PROPERLY SAND, EITHER!

So, i'm going to do the prep work myself. They agreed to another repaint for free, and to be perfectly honest, their actual paint is very good...better finish than a new E class Benz I saw the other day. But it's not adhering because those lazy ass people in there aren't sanding properly.

So I figure, do the prep work, get it back to its almost original color (I actually think claret is too light, so the "dark orchard mica" pro paint will be perfect, thus why I call it "dark claret"), take good care of the paint, and all will be well.

Wow...I just realized my car has been/will have been 5 colors in its life (claret, prowler purple, gunmetal gray, metallic black, and soon, dark orchard metallic)...can anyone beat that?
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  #7  
Old 01-18-2004, 03:51 AM
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Hey, how about posting a pic of each color so we can compare?
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2004, 03:28 PM
nextcubepro
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Originally posted by Alycone
Hey, how about posting a pic of each color so we can compare?
If I had a digital camera, I would. I may be meeting up with someone on the SVXnet soon, so i'll take pics then.
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  #9  
Old 01-18-2004, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by nextcubepro
Wow...I just realized my car has been/will have been 5 colors in its life (claret, prowler purple, gunmetal gray, metallic black, and soon, dark orchard metallic)...can anyone beat that?

Repaint! And thin no more!
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  #10  
Old 01-19-2004, 07:12 PM
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CDG CDG is offline
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sort of:
I have an old Mini.
I repainted it 7 times myself, with spray bombs. took 4 cans each time.
1. & 2.Came Green but was light blue before that.
3.I painted it white,
4. Painted it Black
5. painted it yellow
6. painted it back to black again right away
7. painted it red
7b. painted again red, paint washed off in a heavy rain storm 2 hrs after I painted it.
8. Added blue and white to the red.

That was the last paint job it even got. Cut it up with a blow torch and threw it in a dumpster after selling the Cooper S motor and front end assembly.

fyi, when you change the colour of your car you're supposed to get your registration changed.
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