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  #76  
Old 10-18-2006, 12:30 PM
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So, while everyone is stuck on racing techniques, I'm more interested in daily driving. The issue I have to deal with is commuter traffic. You have to stay on the tail of the car in front of you so no one will wedge in front of you while staying far enough back as to be able to out stop the car ahead.

Doing multiple 50MPH to standstill for minutes at a time leaves deposits on the rotors and is giving the "Warped rotor" feel after only a few months. I have always used Subaru pads and rotors because they are relatively cheap and I don't have to deal with parts people behind the counter. I try to have the new rotors turned before installation as the are never truly "true" out of the box. I do a proper bedding by slowing to a coast several times, raise speed, repeat, etc. No engaged brakes on a stationary warm disc during the process, yet the harsh commuter traffic is awful on the brakes.

What would anyone suggest as far as pads that leave the least deposits?

Doug
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  #77  
Old 10-18-2006, 02:49 PM
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They put me in F/SP because of my mods, specifically the 5MT and the coilovers. Don't know if they picked up on the camshafts. NASA puts the SVX in Class F. My mods bounce me up one class.
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  #78  
Old 10-18-2006, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohrds
So, while everyone is stuck on racing techniques, I'm more interested in daily driving. The issue I have to deal with is commuter traffic. You have to stay on the tail of the car in front of you so no one will wedge in front of you while staying far enough back as to be able to out stop the car ahead.

Doing multiple 50MPH to standstill for minutes at a time leaves deposits on the rotors and is giving the "Warped rotor" feel after only a few months. I have always used Subaru pads and rotors because they are relatively cheap and I don't have to deal with parts people behind the counter. I try to have the new rotors turned before installation as the are never truly "true" out of the box. I do a proper bedding by slowing to a coast several times, raise speed, repeat, etc. No engaged brakes on a stationary warm disc during the process, yet the harsh commuter traffic is awful on the brakes.

What would anyone suggest as far as pads that leave the least deposits?

Doug
Ceramics will leave the least and be the best on the rotors (barring some of the high cost alternatives that aren't good for street usually to begin with). Organics will leave a ton but are also good on the rotors. Semi-metallics are in between as for dust but are not so nice on the rotors.

Where do you get your rotors tured Doug? Might want to take 'em to an actual machine shop and ask if they can tell you how much the are off on each. A lot of places will simply take a rotor grind it down to flat rather than even check to see if its bad. It wouldn't suprise me if it has more to do with dirty calipers, pins and sticking pads then the rotors as it happens quite often esp. with OEM style dust makers.
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  #79  
Old 10-18-2006, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benebob
Where do you get your rotors tured Doug? Might want to take 'em to an actual machine shop and ask if they can tell you how much the are off on each. A lot of places will simply take a rotor grind it down to flat rather than even check to see if its bad. It wouldn't suprise me if it has more to do with dirty calipers, pins and sticking pads then the rotors as it happens quite often esp. with OEM style dust makers.
Good points, I should have given more detail. The place I take them to is a manufacturer that has its own machine shop that my friend is the foreman at. (Run on sentence ) They machine them about 75% of the time.

As for the calipers, I do check the slides because of our wonderful Wisconsin winters require them to be de-sludged and regreased pretty regularly.

I'll try the ceramic pads on the front in spring.

Thanks for the advice.
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Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler
1994 LSi (4/93)
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  #80  
Old 10-18-2006, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shotgunslade
Consecutive 0-100-0's is way harsh, don't you think?
Oh, yes, absolutely. From what I've read regarding brake break-in procedures, for metallic pads on sports cars, four 0-100-0 runs were advised. (0-75-0 for semi-metallics, or non-sports cars.) The thing is, a half-dozen consecutive 100-60-100 corners amounts to roughly the same thing. That seems to be about the maximum duty cycle my brakes can tolerate. If I don't late-brake, there's no problem with fade, but then I'm much slower if I'm not giving the ABS something to do.

I was just thinking that it'd probably be a safe wager to bet that the majority of people have absolutely no idea what the performance limits of their vehicles are. My old Honda was not able to perform even one hard stop from a hundred. I'm sure rear drums, non-vented rotors, and organic pads had something to do with it though.
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  #81  
Old 10-30-2006, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benebob
Huh?
never mind you changed it
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  #82  
Old 10-30-2006, 06:05 PM
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Great thread. To complete it, how about a couple posts on how/where to lub and with what? What is used to prevent shim squeek and how is it applied?
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  #83  
Old 10-30-2006, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shotgunslade
Hary:

They put me in F/SP because of my mods, specifically the 5MT and the coilovers. Don't know if they picked up on the camshafts. NASA puts the SVX in Class F. My mods bounce me up one class.
Thanks, didn't know that!

Harry
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  #84  
Old 10-31-2006, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suby Fan
never mind you changed it

Still confused as to why you think I'm making fun of you? Race wheels simply aren't bling wheels. Function over form! They definately aren't pretty!
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  #85  
Old 10-31-2006, 05:59 AM
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mine are
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  #86  
Old 10-31-2006, 07:28 AM
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mine are

Are what 10 inches wide?
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  #87  
Old 10-31-2006, 08:02 AM
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LMAO, i wish the STI BBS's were, but gold is straight up blingn' yoez!
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  #88  
Old 10-31-2006, 10:25 AM
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LMAO, i wish the STI BBS's were, but gold is straight up blingn' yoez!

Ah but they're 17 inches or bigger right. Try finding a racing slick in that size, then try finding the "right" slick in that size, finally, find that right slick for under $350 a piece. 16s are hard enough to get slicks for.
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