Horrible noise from new.... - Page 12

want-a-fast-svx · #**166** 11-11-2004, 09:57 AM

I had the driveshaft lengthened. This is really really odd because before there were no vibrations at all and I never had to screw with anything? Well the clutch master cylinder should be coming in today so I'll be working on the car all day hopefully. Maybe I'll be able to figure soemthing out.

TomsSVX · #**167** 11-11-2004, 12:43 PM

i was not able to drive my car long before i ripped it apart. on the ride i was getting some subliminal vibrations i thought were just bad tires. Also, every once and a while the virbations would shake the steering wheel violently, but this would fade away eventually. I thought it was just bad tires but could this be related to the mounting of the trans? should i check the angles once everything is back together? well i would love some advice

want-a-fast-svx · #**168** 11-11-2004, 02:34 PM

Ok well i just got the car running up in the air and it seems the driveshaft has alot of play in the center carrier bushing. (The rubber thing that the front part of the driveshaft goes through to meet the rear part. I can't tell if it's the ujoint's or the center piece itself but in second when brought up to 4k and then letting it drop down the vibe is extremely present down to aprox. 2500. Any and all info is greatly appreciated. Thanks again..

mbtoloczko · #**169** 11-11-2004, 05:36 PM

Derek, Tom

Some movement of the driveshaft at the rubber collar is normal. Any time you have a change in acceleration, e.g. flooring it to 4k rpm and then letting off the gas pedal, the driveshaft can move around in that collar for a few seconds. You have a problem on your hands when you are driving down the road at constant acceleration (or constant speed) and the driveshaft starts spontaneously vibrating (and you can feel the vibration).

Derek, you mentioned before that a nut/bolt were missing from the connection between the two halves of the driveshaft. Have you fixed that yet?

Tom, are you also using a lengthened driveshaft, or are you using the driveshaft extension kit that smallcar sells?

want-a-fast-svx · #**170** 11-12-2004, 09:02 AM

I am going to be installing a nut and bolt today, however upon observing the driveshaft I noticed the U-joints in the front part of the driveshaft right by the back of the tranny have some slop in them. There is enough slop that would warrant replacing however I thought I remember hearing the ujoints can't be replaced?

want-a-fast-svx · #**171** 11-12-2004, 09:13 AM

Also, the vibe is normally on deceleration in gear but not always, the vibe is also present when not in gear. I don't notice it anywhere near as much accelerating as i do declerating. Thanks for any and all help

#**172** 11-12-2004, 10:46 AM

there should be NO slop whatsoever in a u-joint. if you can grab the prop shaft and get any side to side movement from a u-joint it is bad, bad, bad. it most definately cause vibrations in any mode. acceleration, deceleration and coast because the balance will be off due to the shaft being out off center.
most u-joints are rebuildable. I am not familiar with the joints ont ths subaru drive shaft. (I haven't had the need to get under my car yet.) the part that fails on a u-joint is the the needle bearings in the bearing cups. there are 4 bearing cups in each joint. there are held in place by a snap ring. If you can find a repair kit, it is not that difficult a job to knock apart a joint and repalce the bearing cups and the center yoke. if left alone it will eventually fail catastrophically and probably at the worst time, like when you are accelerating onto a highway.

mbtoloczko · #**173** 11-12-2004, 11:03 AM

All Subaru driveshafts use staked-in u-joints which are non-replaceable. (There are kits out there for replacing the staked-in u-joints, but the driveshaft shop I work with says its impossible to properly center these replacement u-joints.)

I'm curious about what you mean about slop. Do you mean you can rattle the u-joint while the driveshaft is installed? If so, are you sure that its not the freeplay between the nose of the driveshaft and the tranny?

want-a-fast-svx · #**174** 11-12-2004, 11:29 AM

Nope...definitely not play. Its just like when the ujoints started to go bad in by jeep. However like mychailo said these aren't the same. So what then should i do? I feel like I heard of someon using a conversion on there ujoints so they were replaceble if they ever failed when that person swapped to a five speed.?.?Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. This is obviously something that needs to be addressed and fixed A.S.A.P.

mbtoloczko · #**175** 11-12-2004, 11:52 AM

You'll either have to buy a new driveshaft and get it lengthened, or find a shop that will rebuild your current driveshaft. Either way you go, I'd suggest getting rid of your current driveshaft and switching over the the center CV-joint driveshaft. Its a better design that is less prone to vibration. You could probably find one used for $100, and then have it rebuilt and lengthened.

I just remembered, there is another option. There is a shop in CA that rebuilds Subaru driveshafts, and they will sell you a rebuilt and lengthened driveshaft for around $300. They only do the center u-joint style though.

#**176** 11-12-2004, 12:33 PM

by free play at the nose of the drive shaft, do you mean fore and aft? the splined shaft is supposed to slide fore and aft to compensate for legnth changes due to slight movement of the engine and gearbox on it's mounts, ( or if there is floating rear axel which the subaru is not ) but should have no side to side movement at all. if there is its either the joints or worn splines. the drive shaft must be rigid except for the flex center mount.

want-a-fast-svx · #**177** 11-12-2004, 01:08 PM

Ok well i just got done installing the slave and clutch master and now i can get absolutely no pedal feeling at all. The clutch goes straight to the floor. I bled the system via beavs' advice with the ketchup bottle and clear hose. Both items are brand new out of the subaru box and no air is present in the system that I can tell of. It shouldn't be since i filled it from the slave up. All the air should of been pushed out with the fluid. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. As far as the driveshaft goes I'll have to deal with that on monday when I have more time to find shops around here. Im hoping the people I had lengthen the driveshaft will be able to swap the ujoints out for me. I'll take my chances and see if it works or not. I know I've read somewhere on here of someone's driveshaft shop doing the same.

want-a-fast-svx · #**178** 11-12-2004, 01:10 PM

I'm not talking about freeplay of the driveshaft moving forward and backward. I'm talking about grabbing the driveshaft right at the ujoints and shaking it. When shaking it the ujoint itself is moving side to side.

#**179** 11-12-2004, 01:47 PM

not good, not good at all..

want-a-fast-svx · #**180** 11-12-2004, 02:49 PM

Alright well I guess I have clutch pressure. I really don't understand though. Even after numerous bleeds and no air coming out the pedal just doesn't feel right. The top half is non existant and then it feels like a normal clutch on the bottom of the stroke. From the floor to half way out it feels like a good clutch after that there is nothing. Is this just how its supposed to be?Well thanks again for the help so far.