new SVX owner has questions

[radad]

Got a 92 lsl from my son a few weeks ago. He got it to restore but lacked the funds and time. Engine is strong and smooth. Glass has very little scratching. Body has 3 finger size holes, but otherwise looks clean. Two front wheels are in very good shape, but the rear wheels are hopeless. A previous owner had it painted black. the interior is mint & never smoked in and every electrical devices works except the sunroof sometimes won't close all the way without help.

I got this car knowing a very little on SVX's history and knowing it would not be cheap to run and repair. But I LOVE this car. After getting some exhaust work done, riding on the interstate with the radio on, I noticed I could not hear a semi next to me, I turned the radio off and still could not hear the semi! Quiet, smooth and a small dose of quickness that handles like a dream. How did it take all these years for me to find out just how cool the SVX's are?

So far all I've had done is some exhaust work done and replaced all 4 rotors & pads. I had the car on a lift with my local mechanic to find what I thought was a bad u-joint or cv. Everything looked good all the cv's the drive shaft etc. 3 guys were checking it out and could not find anything wrong. So the head monkey took it for a drive. He came back with the most perplexed look and said man I have no idea maybe you can take it to the tranny shop and they might be able to find it. I can see i'm going to have problems finding anyone to work on this car.

I got home and read a bunch here and other internet resources. I found out about the FWD fuse and popped one in a bada bing bada bang no more weird noise's. Does this mean the problems in in the rear drive? I been driving it in FWD for two weeks now any long term damage from doing this? Also I would like to know if replacing the oil/trans/diff with mobil syn. would be a good idea?

[redlightningsvx]

If its binding in the rear you need a new soloniod c. I wouldn't drive it with the FWD in but thats my opinion.

[Green1995SVX]

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

If its binding in the rear you need a new soloniod c. I wouldn't drive it with the FWD in but thats my opinion.

You're right, Seth. Driving it in fwd puts a lot of stress on the front differential. His differential will eventually fail unless he restores the awd.

[Subie59]

Or you can just put a small bottle of limited slip differential in the tranny and your problem will disappear. There are those on here who say that it won't work, but I have done it in both my subarus (legacy) and (SVX) and I have had no problems in either. Did the Legacy probably three years ago SVX at least a year ago. Both had bad binding problems that went away almost immediatley when I put in the limited slip differential additive. It can only be purchased from a car dealer, at least in Canada. My mechanic recommended it and it saved me a fortune.

for more
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...t=miracle+cure

[radad]

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

If its binding in the rear you need a new soloniod c. I wouldn't drive it with the FWD in but thats my opinion.

At this point in time I only know enought about the SVX to be dangerous, so please excuse any stupid questions.

Where is the soloniod c located? What is the estimated replacement cost? If the actual power split (not under full load) 90/10 front/rear how could that wear out the front differential with only 10% more power going to fronts in FWD light acceleration?

Also I would like to know if replacing the oil/trans/diff with mobil syn. would be a good idea?

WOW LSD for my car, what a trip LOL. Maybe worth a try since I plan to change all fulids anyway.

[Sean486]

Another thing, once you the AWD is fixed, go out and get 4 new tires, you want all the treadwear to be equal on a AWD car or else you will damage the transmission.

[radad]

Yea I'm planning 4 new wheels and tires. I have 2k i'm planning to put into the svx. Any links to a good wheel deal would be nice.

[JaySVX]

Originally Posted by Green1995SVX

You're right, Seth. Driving it in fwd puts a lot of stress on the front differential. His differential will eventually fail unless he restores the awd.

How is this? The car operates in FWD under normal driving circumstances, unless slippage is detected. So unless it's snowing, raining, or you're doing smokey burnouts, you're in FWD. I drove my 92 in FWD only for quite some time, months, and before that, i believe YT did as well. It's a fwd bias car, I'd find it hard to believe that your front diff will fail from driving it the way it's designed to be driven.

[msvx95]

Are you near central ohio? The lsd fluid Subie59 was talking about never helped my car. I have minimal vibration when turning. Replacing sol. C would be the best thing to do.
I don't see the benefit in replacing synthetic fluids either. My car has been fine with standard factory recommended fluid.

[dcarrb]

If a friction-lowering agent alleviates AWD binding, isn't the net effect is the same as inserting the FWD fuse?

I drove one of mine with the FWD fuse for awhile (weeks, months, I've forgotten), with no obvious problem.

No need for synthetics or such, in my book.

Good luck with it.
dcb

[comp_jas]

I can say changing the ATF and adding a bottle of Lubeguard solved a shudder problem I had in the AWD system from a couple years ago. I've read that the demands on the additive package in the ATF are greater than before. Saab supposedly recommends Lubeguard.

I'm not sure it is a cure-all for a true mechanical issue though.

[radad]

Wow thanks for all the good info !

Originally Posted by JaySVX

How is this? The car operates in FWD under normal driving circumstances, unless slippage is detected. So unless it's snowing, raining, or you're doing smokey burnouts, you're in FWD. I drove my 92 in FWD only for quite some time, months, and before that, i believe YT did as well. It's a fwd bias car, I'd find it hard to believe that your front diff will fail from driving it the way it's designed to be driven.

Yea seems logical to me. I would think flooring the gas is going to put way more stress on the front diff. vs FWD only

Originally Posted by msvx95

Are you near central ohio? The lsd fluid Subie59 was talking about never helped my car. I have minimal vibration when turning. Replacing sol. C would be the best thing to do.
I don't see the benefit in replacing synthetic fluids either. My car has been fine with standard factory recommended fluid.

I'm near Cleveland. Know any good suby mechanics around here?

Originally Posted by comp_jas

I can say changing the ATF and adding a bottle of Lubeguard solved a shudder problem I had in the AWD system from a couple years ago. I've read that the demands on the additive package in the ATF are greater than before. Saab supposedly recommends Lubeguard.
I'm not sure it is a cure-all for a true mechanical issue though.

I'm going to change the atf this week and see what happens. If no changes then I'll add the lubeguard (are lubeguard and lsd fulid the same thing?). If that don't solve it I guess its time to look at replacing the soleniod c thingy

[msvx95]

I don't know of any good mechanics other than the dealerships who charge probably 100/hr rate up near the lake. Cheapest rate may be brunswick subaru off of Rt. 42, but you have to stay on them about getting things done timely

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by radad

I got home and read a bunch here and other internet resources. I found out about the FWD fuse and popped one in a bada bing bada bang no more weird noise's. Does this mean the problems in in the rear drive? I been driving it in FWD for two weeks now any long term damage from doing this? Also I would like to know if replacing the oil/trans/diff with mobil syn. would be a good idea?

Hi there Radad, and you are very welcome to the Network.

Nobody mentioned one issue, so I'm going to because it is important. The transmissions tend to fail because of heat spike issues. With that in mind we always recommend to new owners to ensure their transmission gets an external transmission fluid cooler. You should do this, it is a cheap insurance policy against future melt-down. Do a search on 'transmission cooler' and you will pull up loads of info and advice. The B&M Supercooler
19000 lbs GVW slots right in between the two rads and will cool your oil in the hottest summer conditions, plus allow rapid heat up in winter. Pick of the bunch.

Regards the FWD fuse one of our founders Randy ran his car way back in FWD for I think 18 months, and it could have been longer, no ill effects. Provided you are driving your car normally, and not like you stole it, it can't do much harm.

You ask about Mobil synthetic transmission oil. It has a higher spec than the manufacturer asks for. I've been leery of fully synthetic in the past because it can be 'thinner' in action than OEM, tends to clean gunge from inner seals and so possibly create new leaks. Plus it's expensive, and you probably won't need it if you have installed an external cooler. In its favour it will be much slower to break down under excess heat than the regular oil, and that alone might make your transmission last longer in action.

To sum up, if you drive your car in a really hot, hostile environment, such as lots of traffic work in a very hot city, or pulling up hills in a hot desert climate, belt and braces, use the synthetic.

If the above does not apply fit the cooler and use manufacturer's recommended.

Joe

[Mephis]

Just asking here because it's already an issue.

Every mechanic I talk to tells me NEVER to change your transmission fluid. I just turned over 63k miles dead even last night, and I honestly don't see how it would hurt it.

I can understand it for 100k mile + cars thought, but not this. Anyone have input? If I lost my transmission I would be entirely up the creek without a paddle, this car HAS to stay on the road.