transmission codes.

stiguy · #1 01-08-2009, 11:42 PM

i keep try ing to pull the codes off of the tranny comp i did exactly as the how-to section says and i did it about 10 times. am i missing something??

stiguy · #2 01-11-2009, 02:54 PM

i tryied it againg today and it still wont blink it at me. anyone run into this??

log1call · #3 01-11-2009, 03:18 PM

Hi,
I just had a look because I had never notice the "how to" section before and I don't see any instructions in there for getting the trans codes out.

I presume though that you were doing this....

To perform the self diagnostic test for EXISTING problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

To perform the self diagnostic test for PREVIOUS problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "2" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "D" and turn manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

stiguy · #4 01-11-2009, 04:36 PM

yes mainly the second one cus thats the one i need

log1call · #5 01-11-2009, 09:07 PM

Well assuming that the light in the dash is going at start-up, and, you are not getting the "no problem" code, I would suspect that your ecu has a fault in it. You could get a wiring diagram and check that all the earths and all the power wires going into it have their right voltages and if they are all good take it out and inspect it internaly with a magnifying glass for cracks on the printed circuit, burnt our resistors, leaking capacitors, blown transistors or any other visible damage. If you can borrow one of someone or a wrecking yard then try plugging it in and see if you get a better result.

What problems are you having with the tran?

stiguy · #6 01-11-2009, 09:18 PM

some bilding as wrote up here
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=48366

and the second,of not moving in the snow with no wheel spin.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=48477

log1call · #7 01-11-2009, 10:29 PM

Oh, ok, I had read those posts but hadn't clicked it was the same you.

Well for the record... there isn't an electrical fault possible that will not let the car have any drive at all. If you get electrical probelm they go into a "limp" mode so you can limp home with just third gear (I think it is) in those. So that rules out electrical problems from the snow situation.

The binding problem is probably electrical though.

Since you are not getting any fault codes I would pull the trans ecu and inspect it. It, or the power to it, are the only electrical problems it can have that will not post a trouble code. The trouble code cover sensors and valves but they do not get set for internal problems or loss of power.

stiguy · #8 01-11-2009, 11:16 PM

well when you start the car and the power light flashes that means theres a code right??

and when i try to pull the codes it wont even flash once every 1/4sec as that means clear codes.

log1call · #9 01-12-2009, 12:36 AM

Doh, we are talking across two different posts here!

As I just suggested in the other post, the binding will be caused by the solenoid being defective or not allowing fluid through it.
The binding problem though is an exact opposite to the wheel spinning problem in the snow.
If the ecu was working and you had an electrical problem with the solenoid it would show up in the codes. If the solenoid is blocked and not allowing fluid through then it won't show in the codes.
I think that you first of all need to get your ecu to work so you can be sure it's not causing the solenoid problem to manifest.
I'm a mechanic and I know that sometimes it's quicker and easier to pull ecus out and inspect them that spend hours trying to diagnose systems where the built in diagnostic facility is not working.
Pull the ecu and inspect it and/or swap with a KNOWN good one.

log1call · #10 01-12-2009, 12:41 AM

Doh to that Doh!
It is me that is talking across posts... not us. Sorry about that.

Have a look at the thread about rear end thump though.

log1call · #11 01-12-2009, 12:46 AM

If you cant borrow an ecu then you could take yours down to the wreckers and ask if they have a car they could plug it into and see if that car gets the codes off it. Then ask nicely if you could plug their ecu in to your car to check it is going to cure your problem, (or at least get you trouble codes), before you buy it off them.

1986nate · #12 01-12-2009, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stiguy

yes mainly the second one cus thats the one i need

Try both as one is for current codes and the other is for stored codes... Also check the wire looms under the hood to make sure they are connected...they are located under/behind the throttle body...