My SVX... Finally Roadworthy Again

[SilverSpear]

After 7 years in storage with a blown head gasket, I decided to breathe life into my SVX again.

Gas was not getting to the engine bay, so I cracked open the fuel tank and was astonished to find out everything rotten inside. Cleaned all rust and sent all parts to galvanization, replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro I had aside for years. Still gas was not getting through. Didn't take long for me to get my air compressor (used to spray paint), removed the fuel hose in the engine bay and plugged the nozzle of the compressor in the back. Opened the tap of compressed air and heard a BIGBADABOUM coming from the engine bay. Went forward and there was mud everywhere (bay, wall, cars in front).... the hose pipe from the back to the front was all plugged up. Kept compressing the hoses from the front and from the back until everything is okay again. After that, success! the car runs.

Now came the hard part in relation to the head gasket thing. Prepped my SVX service manual (Section 8 - Engine) and followed the instructions to the smallest detail. Just to be clear on this subject, whenever you have a blown gasket, you WILL HAVE to resurface the heads and block, meaning all 4 sides.
Ask your machinist to always start with the left side and then grind the right same with the same amount.

I uploaded 7-8 videos on youtube showing the process. Here are some samples:

EG33 Surface Testing. Here you can see the surface distortion in cylinder number 2 of the left side. We had to remove 0.12mm from it and 0.11mm from the heads.

EG33 Surface Grinding

EG33 Surface Polishing

While at it, I installed brand new spark plugs (Denso IR20), a new thermostat, seals, cometic head gasket, Phenolic Spacers, fan and AC belts. The timing belt was still new with the white marks still on it. Of course, engine, ATF oils and Antifreeze/Coolant.

Also, make sure you only use Renault Gasket Maker in your build and NOTHING else. This product is so impressive that you will know its real value whenever you use it:



During my build, a had a long talk with a local Subaru expert who gave me a good perspective to why my OEM radiator blew up in the first place and something I should cure since I am doing all this work. There are two hoses that go into the engine firewall to the heating rad inside the dash. He asked me to pour water into the first hose and see if leaks freely from the other side. Well... it didn't. Again with the Air Compressor that I had, plugged it from one side, opened the air tab, and a POH!... all "gunk" came out from the other side. I kept compressing air from one side to another until water once poured from one side, dripped freely from the other. I assumed that the pressure buildup in my cooling system caused my rad (with dried out plastic tabs) to eventually explode, overheating the engine and cause my HG thing.

Please note that I was using the cleanest water available in the planet in my cooling system, that is condensed from A/C home units of course along with concentrated Antifreeze/Cooling products. So it is not like I am putting normal tap water in my engine. Could this be related to overheating the left side bank in our EG33? My Subaru expert says that this is a common problem in Subaru engines in this part of the world since people usually use tap unfiltered water and rot the engine and dash rad with time. Furthermore the dash rad is linked to the cooling system in a way that without it will help the engine to overheat faster than with it... Anyways lesson learned, operate the heater in a car at least once a month and do what I did once each 5 years.

Now I am experiencing idling issues which did NOT go away with the mild engine rebuild. I will try to vinegar the MAF sensor and solder the unit to see if it fixes it.

P.S: I was reluctant to use the Cometic HG since it was much more thick than OE Subaru. Even you can remove 1mm off the block and another mm off the head (way much than recommended) and still get a perfectly running engine. But then I went ahead and everything is fine as expected and more.

[svxcess]

Very impressive, Danny

Thank you for the extensive write up with details and tips about what you encountered and the solutions. I am sure there will be many questions and comments on this information.

You are fortunate to have competent mechanics over there. How much did this whole project cost you?

And more importantly, will this silver beast ever have the experience of driving on American roads?

.

[SilverSpear]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Very impressive, Danny

Thank you for the extensive write up with details and tips about what you encountered and the solutions. I am sure there will be many questions and comments on this information.

You are fortunate to have competent mechanics over there. How much did this whole project cost you?

And more importantly, will this silver beast ever have the experience of driving on American roads?

.

Thank you John, well I never hold info. Glad to help the SVX community whenever I can.
Yes we do have competent mechanics in terms of "hardware" treatment but still a little behind in terms of software and diagnostics. For that SVXWN and are my friends.

For this project, I had the engine taken out while the car stayed in my dad's own garage. The mechanic's job was to do all labor stuff while I gave all instructions according to the manual and helped in the dismantling and buildup. He would come each day for two hours each day from 4 to 6pm and it took us 20 days to finish.

I prefer not to go into the costs involved since once I mentioned that and was flamed like crazy. If you are really interested, we can go to PMs

I was wondering the same thing about driving my car in the US sometime in the future, but will they allow it in? I mean with all the bodykit and lack of real structural front and rear brace supports, not to mention the Open loop system with no O2 sensors?

[92 SVX]

Originally Posted by SilverSpear

Thank you John, well I never hold info. Glad to help the SVX community whenever I can.
Yes we do have competent mechanics in terms of "hardware" treatment but still a little behind in terms of software and diagnostics. For that SVXWN and are my friends.

For this project, I had the engine taken out while the car stayed in my dad's own garage. The mechanic's job was to do all labor stuff while I gave all instructions according to the manual and helped in the dismantling and buildup. He would come each day for two hours each day from 4 to 6pm and it took us 20 days to finish.

I prefer not to go into the costs involved since once I mentioned that and was flamed like crazy. If you are really interested, we can go to PMs

I was wondering the same thing about driving my car in the US sometime in the future, but will they allow it in? I mean with all the bodykit and lack of real structural front and rear brace supports, not to mention the Open loop system with no O2 sensors?

If you do end up moving to florida, there is no emissions tests or inspections. to tag it in florida they just check the vin number and check that it has lights/blinkers but do not check anything else.

[SilverSpear]

Interesting... Florida it is! haha

[MCMXCII SVX]

Automobile inspections vary greatly from state to state. While I wouldn't put that high on a list of reasons to move to any particular state, it is worth noting.

California probably has the toughest auto emissions and automobile safety standards. Much of the Southeast USA has very few, if any, mandatory inspections for road-worthiness.

[92snowmachine]

if you move to a state with stringent inspections you can always get a PO box in montana and register your vehicle there. your ownership and registration costs would be lower as well.

[Sean486]

Originally Posted by 92snowmachine

if you move to a state with stringent inspections you can always get a PO box in montana and register your vehicle there. your ownership and registration costs would be lower as well.

Don't they have inspections too, is he going to drive to Montana to get it inspected?

[Conn SVX]

That works for Vermont & Maine so I am told. Most people here in Conn. that build kit cars and HotRods either do register with VT or Maine. That must be the reason. In Conn. the inspection is brutal ( next they will have you buy crash dummies and do a crash test ) that's the only thing missing now.

[92snowmachine]

Originally Posted by Sean486

Don't they have inspections too, is he going to drive to Montana to get it inspected?

not in rural areas. a lot of people in colorado have montana plates or a mountain PO box if they have a vehicle that couldn't get past the emissions test. many businesses register there as well because of the reduced fees.

[92 SVX]

One problem with registering in another state and driving in a different one, it can be illegal.

ND is one that is very cheap, and no inspections as well I could keep my svx nd plate and tags It has been 3 years so far nd will still take my money but im sure florida will get pissed eventually

[SilverSpear]

Guys we will discuss this issue later if everything works according to plan with our move.

Forgot to mention that I had the injectors serviced since I was doing all this work. Nbr 2 was a little clogged.
As I was driving it yesterday, I pressed the gas pedal and my butt dyno told me that my car became something beyond just being a normal SVX. So today I asked my friend to meet me at an old abandoned road to try my new engine. Now I know that racing stories are prohibited on the forum, but I had to do this.

Him, 2004 Nissan 350z with JWT air filter, motordyne engineering phenolic spacers, Auto, something related to ECU remap... certified Dyno at 304 engine HP (dated three months ago).

Mine, 1994 SVX with K&N Mustang 5.0L filter, phenolic spacers, Setrab tranny cooler, lightweight (almost same weight as the Nissan).

I know you guys will not believe this, but I had him till 70mph, then he almost got me between 70 and 95 then the SVX pulled like nothing I have ever seen above that. We did this like 3 times until he got depressed and left lol.

I suspected this since I have driven both cars and I know the Z very well. The pull from SVX was awesome! Very very happy person I am right now. Need to Dyno it though!

[SVXRide]

Danny,
Did you swap in your new cams during the rebuild?
Compression should still be roughly stock.
Any changes to the exhaust?
Can you summarize how much was taken off of each head and each side of the block?

Cheers,
Bill

[SilverSpear]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Danny,
Did you swap in your new cams during the rebuild?
Compression should still be roughly stock.
Any changes to the exhaust?

Cheers,
Bill

No Bill, I never installed them yet, need to convert the heads to solids for that. I am still running hydraulic. I am trying to brainstorm this since it happened, there is no explanation to it except for "Open Loop" and "Oversized Filter". So I think the car is taking as much as it can be given without limits?

Exhaust still the same, true oversized duals without interference with the worst noise ever. This Wednesday, I am planning to install the stock Nissan 350z system (that I had on the shelf for years) instead of the one that I have on right now.
What is the limit on the injectors?