ECUTune Stage III twin screw supercharger sign up - Page 55

longassname · #**811** 06-15-2006, 11:54 AM

Of course I had the valve seals replaced. The only reason this engine was taken apart was to clean it up and replace the seals.

The letters stamped on the block do not represent the different cyllinders. The cyllinders always match up. The letters represent a bunch of different things in addition to the pistons such as bearing sizes etc. I didn't pay attention to which size pistons are in it since I'm not taking them out.

TomsSVX · #**812** 06-15-2006, 12:28 PM

well done Mike. That head torque sequence is a pain in the arse isn't it? Anyway I await eargerly some more good news

Tom

Duckie · #**813** 06-15-2006, 02:25 PM

How long after the superchargers come in do you think it will be before you ship out the remaining first orders? Sorry to be such an ass about wondering when completion will happen, but I am sure you understand. Wow now that I think about it I think I have waited longer than even Mike did o_O

SVXRide · #**814** 06-15-2006, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by longassname

Of course I had the valve seals replaced. The only reason this engine was taken apart was to clean it up and replace the seals.

The letters stamped on the block do not represent the different cyllinders. The cyllinders always match up. The letters represent a bunch of different things in addition to the pistons such as bearing sizes etc. I didn't pay attention to which size pistons are in it since I'm not taking them out.

Mike,
Figured, just had to ask anyway

I asked about the letters on the top of the block, as, according to the shop manual, they indicate the size pistons installed. If all six cylinders have the same letter piston in them, I interprete it to indicate a block with a better casting (versus one that required pistons of different letter sizes)

-Bill

TomsSVX · #**815** 06-15-2006, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Mike,
Figured, just had to ask anyway

I asked about the letters on the top of the block, as, according to the shop manual, they indicate the size pistons installed. If all six cylinders have the same letter piston in them, I interprete it to indicate a block with a better casting (versus one that required pistons of different letter sizes)

-Bill

Bill, those tolerences between the pistons sizes are minimal anyway. I cannot see them effecting the quality of the casting to a noticable extent. Now we need to work on a machine shop to make some plates to close the deck partially, head gaskets don't like a lot of vibration from an open deck and that should be the biggest fear for anyone making more power. Maybe when I tear down my block I can get some measurements and get two plates made

Tom

longassname · #**816** 06-15-2006, 10:09 PM

Bill, I think you need to reread your fsm. The pistons always match up. One of those letters does indicate the size of all the pistons. The rest of the letters indicate other things.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Mike,
Figured, just had to ask anyway

I asked about the letters on the top of the block, as, according to the shop manual, they indicate the size pistons installed. If all six cylinders have the same letter piston in them, I interprete it to indicate a block with a better casting (versus one that required pistons of different letter sizes)

-Bill

longassname · #**817** 06-15-2006, 11:13 PM

Ok so now it's time to put the valvetrain back together. It's a good idea to put the hydraulic lash adjusters back on the same valve so when I dissassembled the engine I #'d them and boxed them. Just like I did with the head bolts I cleaned each one with brake cleaner but instead of just oiling it and dropping it in the head I dropped it into a cup of mobil 1 while I cleaned the next one and then took it out and put it in it's place in the head as I dropped the next one in the oil. When you do this you want to drop them in so that the hole in their side is not facing down. To the side or up is fine. The idea is you want air bubbles to come out and oil to go in.

With the hydraulic lash adjusters installed we are ready to put in our exhaust cam. The first thing I do is clean it with brake cleaner then oil the journals, lobes, and seal matching surface with mobil 1. You want to install the exhaust cam with the notch for the sprocket facing straight down. It will drop most of the way in when you have it aligned right. Then you put the 3 caps on the journals and run the bolts down by hand. As you get close to having the caps down all the way they will start pushing down on the cam journals and compressing the lash adjusters. During this phase it is important to go back and forth between the caps tightening the bolts a little at a time so that you pull the cam straight down. The cam journals run right on the caps and heads. If you disfugure them you aren't replacing bearings you are replacing your head. Once you have them down all the way you torque them to 10 nm starting with the center cap, then the front cap, then the rear cap.

The intake cams have to be propperly aligned with the exhaust cams and both cams have identical alignment marks on oposing sides 180 degrees from the other. Because of this you also have to keep the notches for the sprockets in mind so that you don't install one or both of your intake cams 180 degrees off. The alignment procedure is different for the drivers side than it is for the passenger side. In both cases you want the notches for the sprockets to be in the same direction. If you do this you won't install one 180 off. On the drivers side you leave the exhaust cam as you installed it with the notch straight down. On the passengers side you want the notches straight up so you have to rotate the exhaust cam before installing the intake cam.

Another thing you have to do before installing the intake cam is rotate the front gear which is spring loaded and use a 6mm bolt to hold it in the loaded position. There are flat spots on the cam for holding it in a vise to do this. Obviously make sure you put the flat spot in the vise and not a journal or lobe. They make a special tool for rotating the gear but I don't have one. It was easy enough to use a scribe through the bolt holes to turn it most of the way and then a flat head screw driver on the teeth to turn it the rest of the way to get the holes lined up and a bolt through them. Gears are hardened, with any reasonable competency you shouldn't scratch them doing this. Now its' ready to clean, oil, and install. The alignment marks on the intake cam are 1 dot. On the exhaust cam they are two dots. All you do is line up the teeth so the one dot goes between the two dots while at the same time the notches on the front of the shafts are pointing in the same direction. To get it to drop in place you may have to use a screw driver on the spring loaded gear again to relieve a little load that may remain despite the bolt. When it's in place tighten just like the exhaust cam and then remove the bolt from the gear which will now not have load on it and will come out by hand.

The end caps and the semi circular plugs in the back of the heads seal with sealant. I used super black in the pattern shown in the factory service manual. There is no particular pattern used to torque them and I don't remember the value. I think it was 10nm.

I dropped the cam seals and cam plugs into the cup of mobil 1 before installing then drove them in using a 32mm impact socket for the seals and an inner race from my last wheel bearing job for the caps. The valve covers install with rubber gaskets and torque to 5nm. I also torqued the oil seperators to 5nm which install with 1 rubber and 1 metal gasket and I torqued the oil fill to the same which seals with an o ring.

longassname · #**818** 06-16-2006, 01:57 AM

no time at all

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duckie

How long after the superchargers come in do you think it will be before you ship out the remaining first orders? Sorry to be such an ass about wondering when completion will happen, but I am sure you understand. Wow now that I think about it I think I have waited longer than even Mike did o_O

TomsSVX · #**819** 06-16-2006, 07:18 AM

Making it all look easy eh?? A suggestion for next time if you or anyone else does this again. Drive the 6mm bolt through the intake gear before removing it, this way you do not have to load the spring.

Tom

#**820** 06-16-2006, 08:16 PM

You really shouldn't soak the cam seals and plugs in oil. You dont want the surface between the seal and the head/cap to be lubricated or the seal can pop out. It's best to leave that part dry and just put oil on the part that makes contact with the cam.

Also, why did you put sealant on the oil pump bolts?

Cool write up though.

longassname · #**821** 06-16-2006, 08:49 PM

I'm not too worried the seals will pop out. I put sealant on the 3 oil pump bolts on the left side that the factory service manual says to put sealant on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by THAWA

You really shouldn't soak the cam seals and plugs in oil. You dont want the surface between the seal and the head/cap to be lubricated or the seal can pop out. It's best to leave that part dry and just put oil on the part that makes contact with the cam.

Also, why did you put sealant on the oil pump bolts?

Cool write up though.