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  #61  
Old 07-21-2003, 01:06 PM
kvnobrien
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I've just replaced the O2 and knock engine sensor last week and still experince the hesitation in the morning, only it seems to be more of a surge for me.
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  #62  
Old 07-22-2003, 12:40 PM
Szalkerous Szalkerous is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by NikFu S.


i dont think its the timing. ive driven for a long time with my timing out of whack and i dont get bucking. could be the idle, but thats doubtful. are you saying that it happens when you shift? like it feels eager to go? moving or not? what are your rpms at?
it happens when I'm pulling through the RPM range, the harder the throttle, the more noticable. it can also happen when I'm at idle, after it warms up.....like a chevy V8 with a bigger cam at idle....

I have stock OEM o2's...

-Sz
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  #63  
Old 07-22-2003, 04:53 PM
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NikFu S. NikFu S. is offline
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im lost on the issue. just make sure everything is clean and flowing for now.
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  #64  
Old 07-22-2003, 09:06 PM
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michael michael is offline
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exhaust

kvnobrein, did you do any exhaust mods or have any leaks?
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  #65  
Old 07-23-2003, 08:21 AM
Paxton71
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slight throttle opening = bucking

Ah-HA! I have this problem. Warm, cold, it doesn't matter. In gear in neutral, any gear really, it doesn't matter. It has been going on for 500 miles. Other than the cyclic rpms just off idle, this 1992 car runs very well. The crush mod has NOT been done.

At VERY slight throttle settings (think just off idle) the RPMs will DROP, then increase to just above idle RPM.
IF you hold the throttle in this position the RPMs will up/down about 300 rpm about 1x per second.

I'm pretty sure this is a TPS problem in my case.
It may be a dirty intake.
Other ideas?!


Thanks, Stephen
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  #66  
Old 07-23-2003, 12:20 PM
DavieGravy DavieGravy is offline
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I had this problem until I loosened the gas cap.
Dave.
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  #67  
Old 07-24-2003, 07:23 AM
kvnobrien
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Re: exhaust

Quote:
Originally posted by michael
kvnobrein, did you do any exhaust mods or have any leaks?
No mods or leaks.

Kev
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  #68  
Old 08-12-2003, 02:22 PM
knight'92
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If you take my gas pedal and say 0% is no gas, and 100% is full throttle

when its cold (and often when im driving thru town with the engine warm)
about 0-25% throttle works fine.. 30%-90% there is nothing there, its like 30% all the way thru.... then it picks up from 90%-100%

so I have like this huge dead space ...

I have had the TPS checked.. and it checks fine...
it get aggrivating.. cuz you need to speed up in town, and its either all or nothing...

its like the engine just bogs down..
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  #69  
Old 08-12-2003, 02:26 PM
knight'92
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and my hesitation is so bad in the morning/night after work
that it doesnt matter if you are giving it 10% or 100% throttle
it just will only go about 10 mph...
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  #70  
Old 11-27-2004, 08:27 PM
TorG0d
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My car just started doing this. Never did it before, not even last winter.
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  #71  
Old 11-29-2004, 12:31 AM
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SilverSpear SilverSpear is offline
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me also, do the guys with the V1 chip experience the same problem ?? pls feedback !!! maybe this is the cause
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  #72  
Old 11-29-2004, 05:26 AM
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for anyone having hesitation problems clean ur throttle body....check spark plugs...clean the intake...fuel filter...the obvious things. I have bad hesitation in the summer months....in cold weather my SVX runs very well even with defrost on. But in the summer with the a/c or defrost on the car will hesitate and run sluggish. For many that remember my situation...i had to let the car warm up fully in the summer for it to run well for the rest of the day...not the case for cold weather though. Try explaining that one....
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  #73  
Old 11-29-2004, 06:26 AM
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SilverSpear SilverSpear is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by soobiesvx93
for anyone having hesitation problems clean ur throttle body....check spark plugs...clean the intake...fuel filter...the obvious things. I have bad hesitation in the summer months....in cold weather my SVX runs very well even with defrost on. But in the summer with the a/c or defrost on the car will hesitate and run sluggish. For many that remember my situation...i had to let the car warm up fully in the summer for it to run well for the rest of the day...not the case for cold weather though. Try explaining that one....
10x for the advice, I will do just that.
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1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon)
1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration
2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection.
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  #74  
Old 11-29-2004, 08:01 AM
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n00b on demand n00b on demand is offline
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Hey spear...clean the throttle body and intake first and see if that makes a difference.
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  #75  
Old 06-15-2018, 07:47 PM
RisingPhoenix RisingPhoenix is offline
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Exclamation Re: Initial hesitation

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuzem View Post
I don't have a fix but I have the same problem. I thought I'd let you guys know

The "rich running engine" theory sort of makes sense to me though… Like most other members here I let my car idle for at least 1-2 minutes before I go to work in the morning but I’ve noticed two things that nobody else had mentioned in this thread:

1. Right after the carts starts my RPMs go up and down 3-4 times. It’s sort of a like a wave pattern. Up and down until it settles at around 2100rpms. Anybody else with the same symptoms? It only happens when the engine is cold.

2. The second thing is that my exhaust smells a little funny when I first start the car. It is a rather strong smell of unburned fuel. Does that mean the car runs rich? If so, would that have anything to do with the sensors everybody is talking about?

My car is a ’92 and has 160K so that could be the problem itself L I have no clue how the guy before me took care of the car – I bought it off an auction. On a side note: I also have problems starting the car… Sometimes I have to try 2-3 times in the morning…

Thanks!
Nick
The start/clicking issue is usually caused by a bad ground wire somewhere. Mostly, that odd,short wire going from the negative battery post to the car frame just underneath the battery. Any corrosion on this 'CHARGING WIRE' I call it will cause many car issues i.e.- NO START, CLICKING before start, poor idle, battery drain or dead batteries, poor charging from alternator are all symptoms of this ground wire not terminated properly to the chassis.
Replace this wire and it's connectors. Use a thicker, higher grade wire and when connecting it to the chassis grind orsand down to metal for excellent ground (your car will run great when you do it like this) and I learned to put on some clear RV silicone over the connector to keep it from oxidizing.
I just did this (again after 10 years) on my 1992 SVX when this 'CLICKING' no-start issue started again last year and... NO MORE embarrassing start issues.
So, ignore the mechanic when they say it's a battery/starter issue. The clicking no start is most always a ground issue going on. ��

To add: Battery drain while the car is off is commonly caused by a faulty door solenoid --. Have a mechanic disconnect this door solenoid if you experience elusive, dead batteries. Just my 0.02¢

Last edited by RisingPhoenix; 06-15-2018 at 07:53 PM. Reason: Dead batteries?
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