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  #16  
Old 05-26-2005, 01:23 PM
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rob_4187 rob_4187 is offline
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And also, you might want to change to irridium sparks.
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Teal 92 SVX LS L with 103k
Engine: Stage 1, 3 in filter with heat sheild, underdrive pulley, NOS fogger system (75 shot)to be installed soon Sound:1 10" infinity with 230 continuous watt Dual amp (we have small trunks)
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  #17  
Old 05-26-2005, 01:57 PM
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i am gonna do the spark plugs if i get the nos and there is no way i am gonna do that i have seen people with those and nothing happens.
i can't put a big bottle in the back cuz i have no room since i have my sub and 2 amps back there. i was seriously thinking about doin the glve box thing that sounds really neat.
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  #18  
Old 05-26-2005, 04:31 PM
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Myxalplyx Myxalplyx is offline
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Does anyone have any before and after nitrous results of an SVX on a dyno? I know PoweredSVX (or something like that) has proven how affective nitrous can be on the track.
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1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph
1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph
1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph
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  #19  
Old 05-26-2005, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myxalplyx
Does anyone have any before and after nitrous results of an SVX on a dyno? I know PoweredSVX (or something like that) has proven how affective nitrous can be on the track.
i wanna see some installation pictures of the nitrous being put in.
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  #20  
Old 05-28-2005, 01:26 AM
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^^^^^bump

c'mon fellas, I'm a bit interested in the funny stuff too, I know there are a bunch more of you guys out there that use it.. ie subafreak, just to name the most notorious..... I think the questions that need to be answered are: what is a good, complete kit? what is a good/ safe shot? and how did it install/ was it difficult.. what was involved? I'd like to hear some info/ specs on both wet and dry kits..
thanks guys
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1996 Brilliant Red LSi "Allie"
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  #21  
Old 05-28-2005, 03:57 AM
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*wonders how much nos(if any) he would safely be able to run while stage 3*

*thinks an 11 second subie would be fun*

*doesn't think a ruined trans or engine would be though*
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  #22  
Old 05-28-2005, 03:37 PM
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Here goes,I have been running a zex 100 shot dry,moved up to the 125 setup and most about two months ago I puchase a zexwet.I run a 50 shot dry and a 75 wet,base on my daul a/f gauges the engine is running perfect,but again I have over 300 $ in plugs and the best I've found was regular non plat. autolite resistors for 84 cents each I still have my high dollar irdium,the reason I SWITCHED WAS THAT MY EXAUST temp was lower with the cheaper plug with a gap of 35 instead of 44.I don't do what everyone elses do.You must be willing to find what works on your car.All svxes are not created eqaul,thats why you have awd and fwd.
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  #23  
Old 05-28-2005, 04:23 PM
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but aren't all the engines the same though? the awd and fwd just deals with the tranny.
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  #24  
Old 05-28-2005, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awdsvxh6
but aren't all the engines the same though? the awd and fwd just deals with the tranny.
Ive been running a Zex 55-75 shot dry kit for over a year
Excellent results, and the difference between the 55 and 75 shot is noticeable when racing.
Most important, no Platinum plugs
and keep your bottle pressure at the recommended
900-1200 psi for the most punch and best results.
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CLICK the LINK below to Visit the SVX Store:

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Cars in the garage:
92 Toyota Soarer Single Turbo JDM RHD
70 Boss 302 Mustang 39k original miles
97 SVX Lsi
92 Liquid Silver Murano-ized (1st of its kind)
71 Cougar Xr7 Conv 351c 4v 4spd
69 SS Camaro 350
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  #25  
Old 05-28-2005, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorsport-SVX
Ive been running a Zex 55-75 shot dry kit for over a year
Excellent results, and the difference between the 55 and 75 shot is noticeable when racing.
Most important, no Platinum plugs
and keep your bottle pressure at the recommended
900-1200 psi for the most punch and best results.
so no damage has been done to your engine that is noticable from runnin it? and by the way instead of me wanting the silver decal(remember the one i tore) i need a red one since i painted my calipers red.
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  #26  
Old 05-28-2005, 09:54 PM
ThetaReactor
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The stock ECU handles a dry 75 shot, Dayle? Cool...
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  #27  
Old 05-28-2005, 10:13 PM
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Its designed to work as a dry kit from Zex safely
on most all cars.
Ive gone thru about a dozen bottles in the past
yr or so, ...engine, trans etc are fine.
If you have the ECU tune chip its still possible.
Still run 92 or better octane all the time though.
My motor has 145k on it too.
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My mom will forever live in me and
never be forgotten, one day Ill see her again

CLICK the LINK below to Visit the SVX Store:

http://www.planetsvx.com

http://www.motorsportwarehouse.com/svx/sig2.jpg

Cars in the garage:
92 Toyota Soarer Single Turbo JDM RHD
70 Boss 302 Mustang 39k original miles
97 SVX Lsi
92 Liquid Silver Murano-ized (1st of its kind)
71 Cougar Xr7 Conv 351c 4v 4spd
69 SS Camaro 350
71 Nissan RHD Fairlady Z
70 Stang Fastback
70 Amc AMX 390
71 240z
89 Conquest TSi w/ 5.0 v8 swap
84 Mustang GT Turbo conv

"good, if it bleeds, we can kill it ....."
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  #28  
Old 05-28-2005, 10:23 PM
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i will get the ecu as soon as i can get the money for everything through the rims exhaust brakes and gas. right now im trying to learn as much as i can about it so i know what i am doing when i hook it up.
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  #29  
Old 05-29-2005, 12:49 AM
Red SVX 92 Red SVX 92 is offline
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The most important thing is to move away from plat plugs... go with regulars or iridums... I went with NGK's one heat range colder than stock... Screw that $13/plug iridum sh!t.

The stock ECU seemed to handle an 80 shot just fine.

A small cheater system like a Sneaky Pete sounds like a good option for you.

As for questions about a good, complete kit, and ease of install, any complete kit you can get from NOS or ZEX or NX is a good enough system. You have the option of dry, wet, or direct injection. The pros and cons of wet and dry systems can be debated (adding nitrous and fuel separately/atomizing problems), but direct injection is hands-down the best and most expensive way to go. It injects directly into each cylinder. That means install and complexity are much harder than dry and wet kits (you have to tap into the intake manifold, IIRC). Expect normal install prices for dry and wet kits to be $200-300, $500 for direct injection. If you can wire your car for a sub and amp, then nitrous install won't be hard at all for you, because the main work is running the nitrous line to the trunk.

Speaking of which, I had the blue bottle and two subs in my trunk when I had my SVX. I still had room for stuff, even with that.

If you direct inject, I wouldn't go any less than 100, and I'd probably aim for 125-150, since the jetting is more accurate. Watch the fuel system limits, though.

And I recommend that you keep your SVX stock if you've been busted for street racing. If I were your dad, I'd also trade that SVX for a Hyundai, so you'd be slow AND wouldn't have the temptation to soup up your car.
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