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#1
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wheel bearings and lateral links - help
Had a rear wheel bearing nightmare at the dealership today. To make a long story short, the bolt between the right rear lateral links has rusted/siezed to the link bushings. They told me that, in addition to the normal $300 charge, I was now going to be out for both lateral links ($180 apiece) plus an extra 1-2 hrs labor. I asked them why they couldn't just cut off the bolt and replace the bushings, and they stated that they had tried replacing these bushings in the past with little success. They said that there was extra labor involved in cleaning the old bushings out of the links, and that new bushings were easily ruined during re-insertion attempts. They also said that I should also replace both upper bushings if I took this route. Bottom line, they strongly recommended against it, so I told them to go ahead and order the lateral links.
Am I being screwed here? Please advise asap. |
#2
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No, you're not being screwed, but...
it appears that no one wants to get involved in bushing replacement these days. It's easier for the shop to replace the entire arm than replace the bushing and you end up with buying the arm, which isn't the part that failed.
This MAY be the time to take the car to a trusted local, non-dealer tech. I've had good luck finding some GREAT guys who were willing to do things that delaerships won't. I had a Merkur XR4Ti which had bushing problems up front. Dealer wanted to replace the entire arm for some outrageous $$$. Found a local guy who pressed out the old worn bushings and pressed in new ones for LOTS less than the dealer. Moral of the story is it's easier and faster for the dealer to replace the entire arm than the bushings, however it's more $$$ for you.
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#3
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Well instead of taking out the looong bolt at the knuckle, why not take the two bolts out at the inside ends? Smaller length bolts and not in the splash path might make a difference. It might be awkward for them but do-able. I'd bet if it was their car they'd do it this way. Subaru removes the entire knuckle from the car to change the bearing (if done by the book) whereas I have a hub and bearing tool that will do it on-the-car.
Beav |
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