car wont start...someone please help

jman050 · #1 03-24-2010, 08:47 PM

Ok so ive always had the click click start problem...around 3 days ago i replaced the relay switch and it cured the problem 90% of the time....well today My car wouldnt start at all. There were no clicking issues....the starter was getting power and turning over. My car was acting like it was 100% out of gas when it had a full tank. I tested the fuel pump-which was fine....fuel filter also fine. What am i missing here? is there something that controls the coil packs that could suddenly short or go out. There is not any studdering at all...almost like there is no firing whatsoever.

Mensaf · #2 03-24-2010, 08:54 PM

There's this bull**** plastic piece by (it's not part of it, but it's RIGHT THERE) the ignition cylinder that wears out over time that causes this. Anyone know what I'm talking about. I fixed one on another SVX when I first started working as a mechanic a while back.

That, or make sure your security button isn't active :P

dcarrb · #3 03-25-2010, 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jman050

Ok so ive always had the click click start problem...around 3 days ago i replaced the relay switch and it cured the problem 90% of the time....well today My car wouldnt start at all. There were no clicking issues....the starter was getting power and turning over.

So you still get the "click click" business 10% of the time?

Turning over but not firing is probably unrelated. Have you tired holding the accelerator pedal to the floor while turning the key?

dcb

SURTEESS · #4 03-25-2010, 12:41 PM

When turning key to "on" position are your fans on ALL the time (even when cold?) = ERROR CODE 21

ATF temperature sensor in the transmission is shot - I know I had to change mine (NZ$41.00).

This causes the engine to "lean" out the fuel mixture - thinking engine is really hot!! (hence will not start).

SEE POST 11

SoCal LS-L · #5 03-25-2010, 06:07 PM

Unfortunately cranks-no start can be a pain to diag.

One shortcut is to spray some starting fluid thru one of your vacuum ports, and immediately try cranking over. If it wants to start then, you verified spark, and if it starts up then dies, you have properly timed spark... and can focus on the fuel system as a cause.

If it has no effect at all, then I would look at the ignition system or air/temp metering.

Try the starting fluid thing and also check for any codes, then report back and we can take the next step.

NiftySVX · #6 03-25-2010, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SURTEESS

When turning key to "on" position are your fans on ALL the time (even when cold?) = ERROR CODE 21

ATF temperature sensor in the transmission is shot - I know I had to change mine (NZ$41.00).

This causes the engine to "lean" out the fuel mixture - thinking engine is really hot!! (hence will not start).

I am thinking you meant ECT sensor in the crossover pipe, It is easy to replace and a common failure especially if you haven't been good about changing your coolant. The ATF temperature sensor does not even go to the ECU in this vehicle

SURTEESS · #7 03-25-2010, 08:21 PM

No I ment what I stated initially ATF Temperature sensor is bad (thermister gone open circuit) ERROR CODE 21 = lean fuel mixture (fans on all the time), which makes car near impossible to start (except with foot flat to floor). trust me I had Subaru change that this week with mine......any one else want to back me up.....

SEE POST 11

NiftySVX · #8 03-25-2010, 08:37 PM

The Automatic Transmission Fluid temperature sensor is inside the transmission pan and monitors the temperature of the automatic transmission fluid. There absolutely no communication to the engine control unit on this circuit, It is used by the TCU only. You are thinking of the ECT sensor. there is no fail code that the ECM will output to display a failed ATFT sensor, for the reasons stated above.

Code 21, furthermore, is for the ECT sensor.

Trevor · #9 03-25-2010, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jman050

Ok so ive always had the click click start problem...around 3 days ago i replaced the relay switch and it cured the problem 90% of the time....well today My car wouldnt start at all. There were no clicking issues....the starter was getting power and turning over. My car was acting like it was 100% out of gas when it had a full tank. I tested the fuel pump-which was fine....fuel filter also fine. What am i missing here? is there something that controls the coil packs that could suddenly short or go out. There is not any studdering at all...almost like there is no firing whatsoever.

Reverting to the original subject.

You must logically suspect something involved with replacing the relay is a possible cause of the problem. Could you have disturbed some associated connection or wiring? Everything associated with the ignition switch must be suspect.

Does everything which should come on when the switch is on, do so without any problems and for 100 % of the time.?

SoCal LS-L · #10 03-26-2010, 01:32 AM

Im sitting here wondering if the OP tried the starting fluid, and realized he hasnt responded to anything yet.

Before tinkering around with electronics or wiring, i would definitely use the starting fluid so you can eliminate or confirm properly timed spark. Then you can go the right direction from the get-go.

jman050 · #11 04-03-2010, 01:48 PM

thanks for the help from everyone and sorry for my inconsiderate time period in between posts. Been working 60 hours a week and really hard to get much of a look at my car. Anyway the fuel pump is fine, fuel filter is fine, MAF is fine, crank position sensor is fine, timing belt is lined up correctly, the relays seem to be fine as the starter is getting power but still no plug firing. The fuses are all fine. And NO codes whatsoever. Is there anything im missing???

NikFu S. · #12 04-03-2010, 02:02 PM

Hold on for just a second, but what is this relay click thing? I've been having starting issues with the click and having to turn the key back and forth rapidly to start.
--
Nevermind.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...tarting+issues

sowise · #13 04-05-2010, 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jman050

thanks for the help from everyone and sorry for my inconsiderate time period in between posts. Been working 60 hours a week and really hard to get much of a look at my car. Anyway the fuel pump is fine, fuel filter is fine, MAF is fine, crank position sensor is fine, timing belt is lined up correctly, the relays seem to be fine as the starter is getting power but still no plug firing. The fuses are all fine. And NO codes whatsoever. Is there anything im missing???

I did a quick check but didn't find a test procedure for this part though you could do some poking for voltages and continuity. If you are getting no spark I would think it could be the ignitor. (see pic). There is a small chance I may have a spare you could use to see if it would work.

Trevor · #14 04-05-2010, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sowise

I did a quick check but didn't find a test procedure for this part though you could do some poking for voltages and continuity. If you are getting no spark I would think it could be the ignitor. (see pic). There is a small chance I may have a spare you could use to see if it would work.

A very good possibility has been pointed out above.

The igniter is basically a quite simple device and comprises what amounts to six solid state relays, assembled within a single package. These relays are necessary, because the ECU is not capable of switching the relatively high currents, involved in supplying the low voltage required to trigger the on-plug ignition coils.

Each solid state relay is switched via a positive signal from the TCU and it would be possible to test the igniter by applying voltage to the input terminals and then checking the outputs. Precaution and understanding would be required.

With the igniter in place, it should be possible to confirm a pulse at each of the outputs to the coils. N.B. The output circuits ground the ignition coils and therefore the negative supply to the coils.

There has been mention of faults occurring in the positive supply to the coils. It appears that there is a concealed connection within the loom which supplies the left and right hand banks. There should be a constant positive supply to all coils when the ignition switch is on.

P.S. On checking back through the thread, it would appear that you have not confirmed that you have sparks.

jman050 · #15 04-09-2010, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sowise

I did a quick check but didn't find a test procedure for this part though you could do some poking for voltages and continuity. If you are getting no spark I would think it could be the ignitor. (see pic). There is a small chance I may have a spare you could use to see if it would work.

I may have to take you up on that offer. I have to talk with my mechanic. Last he told me he was trying to find the ignitor box for a spare in the junkyard, but im assuming he was unsuccessful. If he has not found one yet and he has one i would even be willing to put a down payment on the thing so u know i wont run away lol.