What to do, What to do??

[-JJ-]

Ok so most of you know i have no more transmisson, the following are my options: (prices in AUD)

1) Rebuild: svx 4eat, between $1800 - $2250
2) Purchase 4.11 4eat (with diff) for $1200 (has 104000kms on it ) from a 1998 RX liberty (lecacy)
3 ) Purchase a JDM 4.44 4eat (with diff) for $900 (from a trusted friend) from a 96-97 legacy TT (GT)

*ok so i need to know wheather option 2, and 3 autos can plug and play? or do they use different wiring harneses??
*also what exactly does need to happen with the drive shafts, i know they need to be modifyed, but in what way??
*also when and why do you need to install a 20ohm resistor??

if some one dosent mind posting that would be nice , otherwise i will continue sifting through the seach results

[ensteele]

You might PM Huck or Tom and see what they think. They would have a better idea on what to do. Good luck.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by -JJ-

Ok so most of you know i have no more transmisson, the following are my options: (prices in AUD)

1) Rebuild: svx 4eat, between $1800 - $2250
2) Purchase 4.11 4eat (with diff) for $1200 (has 104000kms on it ) from a 1998 RX liberty (lecacy)
3 ) Purchase a JDM 4.44 4eat (with diff) for $900 (from a trusted friend) from a 96-97 legacy TT (GT)

*ok so i need to know wheather option 2, and 3 autos can plug and play? or do they use different wiring harneses??
*also what exactly does need to happen with the drive shafts, i know they need to be modifyed, but in what way??
*also when and why do you need to install a 20ohm resistor??

if some one dosent mind posting that would be nice , otherwise i will continue sifting through the seach results

Option 1. Good value, depends on who rebuilds it.

Option 2. $1200 will grow to about $1800 or more, by the time you lengthen the drive line (our box is longer than the US model), fit the rear diff gears in, and supply a Liberty TCU. You will lose the 36%/64% torque AWD.

Option 3, Too low a ratio, good for driving around Tasmania.

The 20 ohm resistor is to replace the 10 ohm dropping resistor, behind the battery, to raise the line pressure a bit.

Harvey.

[-JJ-]

but i have plans do do cam work..... didnt u specify the need to have a 4.11 or 4.44 to do that sort of work (incresing durations etc)?? or can i do the cam work on the stock ratio?

Also option 1 was a quote from the builder of the rigoli wrx auto box

basically i dont wanna get the stock box fixed now if later i need to change it again to do the cams

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by -JJ-

but i have plans do do cam work..... didnt u specify the need to have a 4.11 or 4.44 to do that sort of work (incresing durations etc)?? or can i do the cam work on the stock ratio?

Also option 1 was a quote from the builder of the rigoli wrx auto box

basically i dont wanna get the stock box fixed now if later i need to change it again to do the cams

Depends on what cam, if you use the 247*8mm cam, it will work with the standard ratio, remember ours is lower at 3.7. If you are going bigger duration, and higher up the rpm range, or want the lower speed acceleration,
then use the 4.11. decide now. If you want to go lower ratio, get them to rebuild it with the 4.11 front diff, and fit the 4.11 in the svx rear.

Honestly I think the rebuild, by them, well make a bullet proof box. The SVX box has a stronger high clutch and better AWD than the four cylinder boxs.

Harvey.

[huck369]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Depends on what cam, if you use the 247*8mm cam, it will work with the standard ratio, remember ours is lower at 3.7. If you are going bigger duration, and higher up the rpm range, or want the lower speed acceleration,
then use the 4.11. decide now. If you want to go lower ratio, get them to rebuild it with the 4.11 front diff, and fit the 4.11 in the svx rear.

Honestly I think the rebuild, by them, well make a bullet proof box. The SVX box has a stronger high clutch and better AWD than the four cylinder boxs.

Harvey.

Option 3 is the easiest and simplest option, yes the 96-97 EAT is a "plug and play" box for it, and the Legacy TT has the same stronger high clutch as the SVX, and the lower final drive will make it easier on the tranny too (plus a 4.44 SVX is WAY more fun to drive ) you will still have to install a 4.44 ring and pinion into the rear diff too, but the driveshaft should be the same.

Granted I'm not down under, so I'm not as sure of the differences in the trannys down there....but either way installing another auto is the easiest fix, plus you get the added performance of the lower ratios.

Just my thoughts on it....

[TomsSVX]

4.11/4.44 for around town and racing. stocker for highway. You can make cams to suit your driveline not driveline to suit the cams

Tom