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  #16  
Old 03-13-2003, 12:28 PM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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The third O2 sensor is a different part number, 22690AA330. The front 2 sensors, located just in front of the cats, is 22690AA270. I don't know what the difference is though. Prices are the same: $115.00 each

The 92s only had the 2 front sensors, 22690AA180 and the were about 23.00 cheaper than the later ones.

Photo of the front sensors:
Attached Images
File Type: gif o2+sensor.gif (91.0 KB, 110 views)
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R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
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  #17  
Old 03-13-2003, 01:21 PM
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what makes me even more mad, is the fact that it isn't even the O2 sensor that is bad, its the O2 sensor heater circuit, and i'm pretty sure that if i replaced the O2 sensor, the problem would go away, because, its only the heater aspect of the O2 sensor. Is the third one even really that important anywho?/ does it really do anything that changes engine performance?. Also is there anything else that could cause that code to come up??
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  #18  
Old 03-13-2003, 02:10 PM
LarryIII LarryIII is offline
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The qoute for the rear Oxy. sensor for my '97 from the dealership is $ 139.95 plus 6% PA stste tax. John, where did you get the $115 price.
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2003, 06:06 PM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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I got that price at subaruparts.com

http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=...=15&submit.y=5

But then there is 11.50 shipping... even so, you are saving $22.00

(139.00 +6%= $147.34 versus 114.26 + 11.43= $125.69)


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1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


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Last edited by svxcess; 03-13-2003 at 06:17 PM.
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2003, 10:06 PM
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There are a couple different types of O2 sensors, but for the SVX we'll only concern ourselves with one type. The sensor generate a voltage of 0 - 1 volt, depending on the amount of oxygen passing over it. The richer the exhaust, the higher the voltage.

The BxS1 sensors (the forward sensors, found ahead of the convertors, also known as 'upstream' sensors) are used to determine how well the fuel is being burned in the engine. The BxS2 sensors, found after the convertor(s), is only used to determine convertor effectiveness. The S2 sensors have no impact on how the car runs, but they do inform you of when a cat is overloaded or failing.

Regarding using a wrench and clipping the connector off: if you're going to replace the sensor, the connector on trhe sensor end is going to be replaced also. So if it won't pass through the boxed-end of a wrench why not clip it off and use the wrench? That's all I was offering.

Heater circuits are necessary, especially for the forward sensors, in order to make them functional as soon as possible. Look at it this way - the faster the sensors come online and the system goes into closed-loop the better it is for you, MPG-wise. We're not talking about a couple hundred degrees here, more like 1200-1500 degrees. And yes, there is always something else that can cause a code to show up. I can't think of a single code that only has one possible cause. A loose wire between the sensor and the ECU can cause the same code as a bad sensor.

Oh, for what it's worth, I'm usually anti-anal. 35# is like, what, two pizzas and a case of Bud?
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  #21  
Old 03-14-2003, 04:01 AM
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John,

The $22 may get us the sandwiches and all the really good pickles we want, but the vanilla egg cream, knish and cherry cheesecake for desert is going to cost more. Damn, you made me hungry.

Last night I was checking the extended warrantee on SUBYDOO.
The car is covered until September of this year so the new rear O2 sensor should only be $100, which is the deductible.
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'92 White Pearl SVX LSL w/touring pkg..."SVXY"
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  #22  
Old 03-14-2003, 08:30 AM
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It's ridiculously easy

Disconnect the electrical connectors. Jack up one side of the car and slide under from the front. I used an open end wrench(22mm or 7/8") and they just popped right off. Took less than ten minutes.
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  #23  
Old 04-04-2003, 01:55 AM
Soobarooo
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Hi,
Do the sensors unplug, or do you have to cut the connection and splice the replacement sensor?
I plan to replce my left sensor, and can't get a concensus from this post.
See attached.
Thanks.
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File Type: jpg o2sensor_img.jpg (181.5 KB, 107 views)
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  #24  
Old 04-04-2003, 07:30 AM
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The pic there is of the sensor end, and is threaded.

The other end, which you access from the top, is somewhere below the throttle body area, on either side, and has a connector on it which can be unplugged.

VK
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  #25  
Old 04-04-2003, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Soobarooo
Hi,
Do the sensors unplug, or do you have to cut the connection and splice the replacement sensor?
I plan to replce my left sensor, and can't get a concensus from this post.
See attached.
Thanks.
You can go either way. If you buy a sensor with an OE connector, you simply unplug/replug. If you buy one you have to splice, then, you cut the wires and splice. Beav recommended that you not unplug the sensors if you're going to splice (due to "wicking" and somesuch). Simply snip the wires and remove the sensor, then, splice the new one after you've installed it.
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  #26  
Old 04-05-2003, 03:41 PM
Soobarooo
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Question

I have removed my O2 sensor. Before replacing it, is there any way to determine if it is defective or not?
It came out easily enough.
Here is a picture. Can you tell by lOOking at it?
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File Type: jpg 104-0440_img.jpg (136.0 KB, 101 views)
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  #27  
Old 04-05-2003, 04:13 PM
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The only 'real' way to check it is to use a dc volt meter (high impedance), preferably a digital graphing meter. Hook the positive lead to the sensor's output and the ground to a good ground - the sensor's shell should work. With the engine warmed up and running properly it should have a steady rise and fall voltage of approx. .1 to .9 volt DC, about once or twice per second.
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  #28  
Old 04-09-2003, 08:27 PM
Soobarooo
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Question

I replaced my Left (Drivers side) O2 sensor today. (Engine code 37).
I am either having trouble clearing the codes, or it wasn't the O2 causing the problem. (Still getting code 37).

Any ideas?

(I used the code clearing procedure outlined VKYKAM in another post:

To clear codes:

1) With engine off, stick the blue wires to 1st and 2nd pin in the top row counting from left on the black connector, with notch facing up.
2) Start car. Shut off car. Remove pins.
3) Read codes to make sure they are clear. No codes = steady blinks at 1/4 second intervals.)
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  #29  
Old 04-10-2003, 08:07 AM
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vkykam vkykam is offline
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Try driving it between starting and stopping the engine. I've found that it requires that on occasion.

Or you could just disconnect the battery for 5 minutes.

VK
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  #30  
Old 04-10-2003, 05:24 PM
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SVX_MY_BABY SVX_MY_BABY is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aredubjay


You can go either way. If you buy a sensor with an OE connector, you simply unplug/replug. If you buy one you have to splice, then, you cut the wires and splice. Beav recommended that you not unplug the sensors if you're going to splice (due to "wicking" and somesuch). Simply snip the wires and remove the sensor, then, splice the new one after you've installed it.
Iwas told by one mechanic that you can't splice the wires on O2 sensors. Following this post & others (thanks vkykam) he was obviously wrong.

What is the "CORRECT" way to splice? Just solder the wires?
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