Problems with my 92

[Turbone]

Got it running about a month ago, but really havent driven it any where. It sat for 4yrs and the gas was pretty bad. I added about 7gal of fresh stuff plus some conditioner etc. It would run for a while and then die. I assumed it was just sucking up some bad stuff. Recently it would run for 5sec and shut off so I changed the fuel filter.
I pulled the line from the filter to the fuel rail and hooked up a hose to a gas can to see if the pump was working and it checks out.
Its still doing it Its almost like the ign is getting turned off the way it dies.
I had a few codes that were not fuel or ign related that I took care of prior to this, so what should I look for now?

[Turbone]

Wow, all these views and nobody has any ideas?

[Sean486]

Maybe try unplugging the MAF? Sorry that's all I got.

[92 SVX]

I suggest seafoam. Pour into the tank to clean injectors and suck into the vac system to hopefully clear up gummed or varnished valves.

[Turbone]

I had planned on doing that, after I got all the bad gas run thru it.
Guess it wouldnt hurt to toss some in now.

[92snowmachine]

Originally Posted by Sean486

Maybe try unplugging the MAF? Sorry that's all I got.

i would do this first. does the gas smell really bad? I would recommend sta-bil instead of seafoam. seafoam is some harsh stuff, good to not subject your car to it unless you have to. i know i will get flack from someone because a lot of people swear by it but i don't believe the hype.

[1986nate]

Originally Posted by 92snowmachine

i know i will get flack from someone because a lot of people swear by it but i don't believe the hype.

Don't worry, you're not the only one

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by 92snowmachine

i would do this first. does the gas smell really bad? I would recommend sta-bil instead of seafoam. seafoam is some harsh stuff, good to not subject your car to it unless you have to. i know i will get flack from someone because a lot of people swear by it but i don't believe the hype.

No flack but I have seen a night to day transition on carbureated engines with seafoam. For FI, I like Redline SI-1. The thing is, some people say to run it and then change the fuel filter and others say to change the filter before using it. I suppose it depends on where the gunk is. You could get two bottles, run one through, change the filter and run the other through. The hope is that nothing too large breaks loose from the filter that can't be dissolved by the second bottle.

[icingdeath88]

Can I chime in as an organic chemist? It's all the same sh*t. Just various organic solvents in different ratios that can be burnt away in a combustion chamber to dissolve the organic (carbon) crud that builds up all over the place. So it really probably doesn't matter which one you pick.

What I don't like about these cleaners is that there's not really going to be much dissolving going on if there's not a significant amount of the stuff in liquid form physically in contact with the grime/crud. So don't expect too much.

[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

No flack but I have seen a night to day transition on carbureated engines with seafoam. For FI, I like Redline SI-1. The thing is, some people say to run it and then change the fuel filter and others say to change the filter before using it. I suppose it depends on where the gunk is. You could get two bottles, run one through, change the filter and run the other through. The hope is that nothing too large breaks loose from the filter that can't be dissolved by the second bottle.

Changing the filter before using it makes some sense actually because it will dissolve different types of things than the gasoline usually dissolves. So stuff that the gas can't dissolve is exactly what the fuel filter filters out. If you add seafoam you might dissolve that stuff, and just end up moving down the line into the engine or something. If you're going to change the filter, may as well change it before.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

Changing the filter before using it makes some sense actually because it will dissolve different types of things than the gasoline usually dissolves. So stuff that the gas can't dissolve is exactly what the fuel filter filters out. If you add seafoam you might dissolve that stuff, and just end up moving down the line into the engine or something. If you're going to change the filter, may as well change it before.

The reason some people say to change it after is that gunk from the fuel lines or gas tank could then clog your nice new fuel filter. I think the best option is to change the filter, clean and change the filter again but I didn't want to go there. Some people also suggest cleaning just before an oil change as some of the crud ends up in the oil and oil filter.

On the cleaners, they really aren't the same. First, they aren't just various ratios...they are also various concentrations. Second, they don't all have the same solvents and some solvents are supposedly better. Polyether Amine is supposedly the best but some "green" companies claim that certain soy based solvents are better. 3M Max Strength has the highest concentration of PEA but the bottle is smaller so you need to use more. People generally rave about Redline SI-1 and Amsoil PI.

[92snowmachine]

my problem isn't with what it could potentially do to the fuel system (which is a problem but could be fixed) but what the corrosive fluid does when it comes in contact with the your engine metal and gets into your oil. if you run a can through and smell your oil it will smell like seafoam. they claim you can add it to oil but only a fool would add a thin solvent to their oil. whatever you run through your fuel lines will find it's way into your oil, especially in high mileage engines. do what you like but if you are that concerned just take the line off the fuel filter, put a paper clip in the fuel pump relay socket, and drain all of the gas. if you do use it then let your car idle until it runs out of gas and then change the oil right away. i recommend marine sta-bil because it has proven to be less corrosive from experience.

[Turbone]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

The reason some people say to change it after is that gunk from the fuel lines or gas tank could then clog your nice new fuel filter. I think the best option is to change the filter, clean and change the filter again but I didn't want to go there. Some people also suggest cleaning just before an oil change as some of the crud ends up in the oil and oil filter.

People generally rave about Redline SI-1 and Amsoil PI.

I tried Gumout Regane before the filter change. Changed the filter then used Seafoam. Its still not working. I did get a code this time - MAF. I had cleaned it before all this started, so I dont know why its doing it again, unless its going bad.
And another I just noticed, my upper rad hose was completely collapsed. I popped the cap and relieved the pressure, looks like I need a new cap too.

[Turbone]

Problem fixed! After using the Subaru Select Monitor again, getting a code 23, I found my spare MAF and swapped it out. Funny, the thing was working fine before

[Sean486]

Originally Posted by Turbone

Problem fixed! After using the Subaru Select Monitor again, getting a code 23, I found my spare MAF and swapped it out. Funny, the thing was working fine before

Good to hear.