Overheating Motor - Page 2

redlightningsvx · #16 08-02-2009, 06:17 AM

I think it may be origonal because my car had no service records when I got it. All I know is that its on its second OEM radiator because the upper rad support was previously fixed from a wreck. The car has about 159,600. Another thing is that it's raining out AGAIN so i'll see if it clears up later but if not it's sitting until I get this resolved.

redlightningsvx · #17 08-02-2009, 11:30 AM

Ok I cleaned out the coolant overflow tank and hose the best I could. I think i'm just going to get a new tank so it's super clean. I parked on a hill and let it warm up and filled it as Dave suggested. So far I added 1pt to the rad and about .5pt to the overflow tank. I then shut it off for a couple minutes to let things settle, then I drove it at operating temp about 15 miles down the road/back. During this I also blasted the a/c and heat for about 5 min a piece and they both worked perfectly. When I got home I let it sit at idle for another 5 min and the temp stayed where it always did at a little under the 2nd line from the top on the flag thing.

Pics. You can see little black specks in it and it looks dirty.

I also forgot to mention the other day I accidentally pulled this off and plugged it back in. I pulled it off again today and pressed it on good just in case it's related. I have no clue what it is?

Hocrest · #18 08-02-2009, 02:30 PM

Sounds good, keep a close eye on that gauge and check the coolant in the rad every morning before you start it to make sure it's not losing any.

That single blade plug, below the left side of the alternator is the Oil Pressure sender.

TomsSVX · #19 08-02-2009, 06:24 PM

There is a good chance the A/C condensor heat sinked the radiator and essentially created a total loss of efficiency while idling. That caused the coolant to overheat and boil over and out of the overflow. keep an eye on it

Tom

redlightningsvx · #20 08-02-2009, 07:07 PM

I'll definatly keep checking it. I ran it again about 30min ago at temp and it was normal.

SVXRide · #21 08-02-2009, 08:02 PM

Acid test will be to go out and really push the car hard. Normal driving will not "expose" a HG issue. YT drove my car all the way from southern MD to NJ with no issues. It wasn't until he was pulling the engine that the HG issue became apparent.
-Bill

redlightningsvx · #22 08-02-2009, 08:14 PM

I did floor it at 60 for a good couple seconds but i'll push it a little longer tomorrow.

TomsSVX · #23 08-02-2009, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

I did floor it at 60 for a good couple seconds but i'll push it a little longer tomorrow.

Up hill for extended periods. Loading the engine for extended periods followed by an idle or very low RPM will help you diagnose. I have had an SVX heat sink the radiator with the A/C before though. If your system was overcharged it can easily overheat the condensor
Tom

SoCal LS-L · #24 08-02-2009, 10:02 PM

If you're worried about the HGs that much, then ill say what I always say (much to Tom's chagrin

), go get a block tester kit and test for exhaust gasses in your cooling system!! Believe me this has worked for me many times and has worked for at least a couple folks here on their SVXs.

Hopefully yours just turns out to be a lazy thermostat or something.

kwren · #25 08-02-2009, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Up hill for extended periods. Loading the engine for extended periods followed by an idle or very low RPM will help you diagnose. I have had an SVX heat sink the radiator with the A/C before though. If your system was overcharged it can easily overheat the condensor
Tom

If the system is slightly overcharged the high pressure cut out switch will turn the compressor off till the presure comes back down a bit and then allow the compressor to come right back on when the high pressure subsides a bit. That should be easy to diagnose with the hood open and the right hand on the cold intake line and notice if the line is cold-frosty and the compressor rapidly cycles on and off
Keith

kwren · #26 08-02-2009, 11:33 PM

Of course this all happens with the engine running and the air conditioner set on a cold setting.

Keith

kwren · #27 08-02-2009, 11:34 PM

...And the car in park!

Keith

redlightningsvx · #28 08-03-2009, 12:29 PM

Well I drove it up a couple steep hills and straight aways for about 30 min kepping it well above 3k rpms, then I let it sit and idle for about 5-10 min. NOTHING happend. So i'm just going to keep watching it and report back with some info in the next couple days.

PS. I just checked the coolant and I popped the cap off and it was a little over the fins and the overflow tank was above the full line about a thumbs lenth from the opening.

TomsSVX · #29 08-03-2009, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwren

If the system is slightly overcharged the high pressure cut out switch will turn the compressor off till the presure comes back down a bit and then allow the compressor to come right back on when the high pressure subsides a bit. That should be easy to diagnose with the hood open and the right hand on the cold intake line and notice if the line is cold-frosty and the compressor rapidly cycles on and off
Keith

Yes, but sometimes the switches stop working like they should

Just had one doing it the other day.

Tom

redlightningsvx · #30 08-07-2009, 03:52 PM

Got a new OEM thermostat and gasket today at work, plus a jug of Subaru coolant. When I do this should I change the fluid or reuse the old and add accordingly? I changed the coolant a little over a year ago.