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  #16  
Old 10-09-2007, 08:22 PM
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  #17  
Old 10-09-2007, 08:25 PM
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Lol I left my camera in Little Egg Harbor so it'll be another couple days before I can post any. Eric does have a few on his camera though.
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  #18  
Old 10-09-2007, 09:20 PM
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Was that Eric's house you's were at on Monday?
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  #19  
Old 10-09-2007, 09:59 PM
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nah, that was his mom's place. I was telling you to look for my house on your way home....Pfft, "I always look for svx's" but you past mine twice

the only pictures I have on mine are of me going " Dont take me picture of I" so um..no, not uploadin' them. And your camera is in brigantine

But yeah, the car is getting it's other side primed this week. The reason we're doing the bodywork in sections is we really cant get to do it untill the weekends, and Id rather not have bare metal and body filler exposed to any rain (Like it's currently doing)

Looks like hopefully this weekend Ill get the primer blocked out, and mike will take care of the odds and ends (sanding mirrors, rear window garnish, ect..) I don't doubt this job will be complete by the pumpkin carve meet
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  #20  
Old 10-09-2007, 10:02 PM
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hahaha, oh spit, I just had a brain fart lol. I was looking for your house but missed the hospital thing??
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  #21  
Old 10-10-2007, 05:18 PM
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Update:

The body shop called and notified that the car as it sits is primed.

There are just a few more significant pieces separate from the car which need to be primed before paint, including my cladding, door handles, mirrors, and upper quarter garnishes.

After these things have been addressed, the car will be blocked and brought in for paint, which will happen sometime next week, hopefully earlier on in the week.

I anticipate driving this car home for the week following, so that I may assemble and detail it with what little spare time I have before the pumpkin carve autox meet.
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  #22  
Old 10-10-2007, 05:26 PM
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Quick prep ?

So, I'm currently about 1/4 of the way through prepping my baby for paint. I've been sanding everything thus far even if I need to get down to bare metal for filler simply because I'm concerned about what affect the chemical stripper will have on rust resistance properties.

It looks like your front fender is sanded, not stripped, but it looks like it's just about perfectly prepped (through the clearcoat everywhere, some areas through the color (no biggie), and some small areas through the primer (no biggie)). How'd you go about sanding? It's taking me forever to get to that point using a 6" orbital sander w/600 grit paper. The hood took me a couple hours as did the roof.
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  #23  
Old 10-10-2007, 07:58 PM
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Well, its a complicated process..

Eric could probably explain it better than I can, but here it goes:

-A year ago we randomly decided to sand the right ride of the car (entirely by hand and with a 400 grit paper on a rubber block)

Resuming the bodywork, we did some removal of cladding and mouldings, and replaced the driver fender and door.

We sanded to feather out chips and remove hard edges.

A power sander was used ONLY on the lower cladding pastics to remove paint residue from a chemical stripped which hadn't fallen off entirely.

Power sanders WILL leave flat spots in many instances, and handheld paper without a block will leave finger marks.

It was also used for removing paint residue after chemically stripping the surface of the hood and trunk (these panels had far too many chips/dings to feather out properly so it was in the interest of a job done proper to strip them to bare metal and start there.)

We sanded the car 90% BY HAND with 220grit to cut clearcoat, then 400 grit to smooth the surface.

Areas requiring filler were scuffed with 60 grit to bare metal, and filler was applied accordingly.

The filler was cut down first with 180 briefly, then 220 then to 400 grit (by hand)

After all filled areas were touched up with evercoat as needed and feathered,

the car was dropped in for primer.

An etching primer was used on the two panels which were taken to bare metal in order to prevent rust.

*(not entirely completed step)

After coming back from primer, the graystuff was blocked down using 400 and 600 for a resulting smoothness that is apparent when you can see your reflection IN THE PRIMER!

More to come.
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  #24  
Old 10-10-2007, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
ric could probably explain it better than I can, but here it goes:

we randomly decided to sand the right ride of the car (entirely by hand and with a 400 grit paper on a rubber block). Only got the fender and door done. after later Resuming the bodywork, we did some removal of junk, including cladding, bumpers, moldings, door handles, lights, weatherstrippings, the antenna, the sunroof, ect. ect.

Somewhere during the project, we gutted the donor door, had the door and donor fender edged, and hung them on the car

We sanded to feather out chips,remove hard edges, and on certian spots that weren't properly prepped on it's FIRST respray, there was ghosting of the basecoat and clear coat..Meaning that entire layer needed to be sanded off.

A power sander was used ONLY on the lower cladding pastics to remove paint residue from a chemical stripped which hadn't fallen off entirely.Please note..I wish I had a dual orbital sander.Power sanders will leave flat spots if you use them RIGHT, and ditches if you use them wrong.Handheld paper without a block will leave finger marks, unless you know what you're doing

It was also used for removing paint residue after chemically stripping the surface of the hood and trunk (these panels had far too many chips/dings to feather out properly so it was in the interest of a job done proper to strip them to bare metal and start there.)

Eric sanded the car 90% BY HAND with 220grit to cut clearcoat , crappy repainted base coat, feather chips, scratches, ect., then 400 grit to smooth the surface.

Areas requiring filler were attacked with 60 grit to bare metal, and filler was applied accordingly.

The filler was cut down first with 60 briefly, then 180, then 220. Often, if pinholes or other surface discontinuities were found, a layer of glaze was applied and resanded using 180,then 220


the car was dropped in for primer.

An etching primer was used on the two panels which were taken to bare metal in order to prevent rust. Really

After coming back from primer, the graystuff was blocked down using 400 and 600 for a resulting smoothness that is apparent when you can see your reflection IN THE PRIMER!

More to come.
Edited.

Quote:
o, I'm currently about 1/4 of the way through prepping my baby for paint. I've been sanding everything thus far even if I need to get down to bare metal for filler simply because I'm concerned about what affect the chemical stripper will have on rust resistance properties. <--now..why would anyone try this themselves Just kidding, Dont worry about using chemical stripper. It doesnt damage metal, BUT, it WILL make your plastic things like like Meltman. Simple way of telling if you got quality stripper: The more like rancid cat piss it smells, the better.

It looks like your front fender is sanded, not stripped, but it looks like it's just about perfectly prepped (through the clearcoat everywhere, some areas through the color (no biggie), and some small areas through the primer (no biggie)).<--Correctumundo. The depth of how far I sanded was mostly determined by how deep the stone ships I was sanding out were How'd you go about sanding? It's taking me forever to get to that point using a 6" orbital sander w/600 grit paper. The hood took me a couple hours as did the roof.

With a da, you should have no trouble at all ripping it down with 220, then going over it again with 400. Be carefull to hold that sucker flat though, and use long strokes, otherwise youl end up digging holes. Your best bet, (as if, I was goig to go back and re-do it again on my own car) is to remove everything, strip it, fill the dings, prime sand paint sand buff, enjoy. At the very very least, take the hood off and strip that. you'll end up sanding 99% of the paint off trying to feather chips anyway...And in the end, you'll end up getting a stone chip right where the original color will show. Just strip it
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  #25  
Old 10-13-2007, 12:18 PM
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Thanks for the tips. I guess I could've clarified that I'm a bit worried about rust from stripping because I stripped my sunroof and re-painted it (starting with a self etching primer), and now there is a small rusty spot on one of the edges. I live in freakin' AZ and I got rust. I figure that stufff removes everything, including whatever coating Subaru applied to resist rust.

In all honesty, I'll probably continue with just sand paper in most cases, especially since I'm re-painting the original color. But, the tips you gave about grit will be helpful.

Who knows, maybe by the time I actually get around to finishing I'll be so sick of sanding that I'll jump over to the dark side and use stripper.

So, when can we expect some pics of your finished product? Are you having the shop do any wet-sanding of the finished product, or are you just gonna see how it turns out without that?
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Time for my very own long list of mods:
92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler

I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me
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  #26  
Old 11-09-2007, 10:00 PM
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You need to get this finished Mikey, I'm sick of waiting
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2007, 10:53 PM
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Hell yeah

lol, waiting on the freakin bodyshop to have an open slot...this SIDE JOB is gonna take up the etire booth for the whole day

but bill, of course,you're welcome to come hang out while we pretend to be working vigorously getting the car buttoned up
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  #28  
Old 11-10-2007, 08:28 AM
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Yeah, some side joblol. Yeah I'm sire I'll be hangin out, I mean "working"
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  #29  
Old 11-10-2007, 09:32 AM
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that is some nice work you got going on!.. i have to do about the same thing to mine. but i also have to replace the entire pass quarter panel. can you pop out the quarter glass just like a front windshiled? i will be replacing the panel with a new one from subaruparts.com i'll be drilling out spot welds for weeks!
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  #30  
Old 11-12-2007, 01:54 PM
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Yeah, rear quarters are a major pita The upper rear class can be cut out the same way as the windshield. If memory serves me right, it's prettymuch just urethaned in
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