ECUtune SVX pistons - Page 5

longassname · #61 05-09-2007, 12:31 PM

Honestly, you'd probably be in a world of hurt trying to do the bottom end yourself if you are short on money. You need close to $1,000 in specialty tools.

I'm not going to close deck and don't recomend you try it. Taken your heads off yet? Have a look inside the water jackets. That's where most of the bolts that hold the two halves of the block together are. If you are going to put anything in there they would have to either be removable inserts or small braces not in the way of the bolts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

Thanks for the good info. I would also like to do my bearings. Problem is I've never done them or worked with plastiform. How difficult are they to do? Is there some instructional info I could get that would help me. I'm starting to get low on funds so anything I can do myself would be great.

I'd still like to do the ARP bolts and copper head gasket. Still considering closing or semi closing the deck as well. That will probably do it though.

longassname · #62 05-09-2007, 12:34 PM

speeking of bearings......

I can now recomend not using the factory rods if you want to make big power. I've seen evidence of the rod bolts stretching. So if you are going to build for power, get the H beam rods. I have them available.

TomsSVX · #63 05-09-2007, 02:32 PM

mike.,, the only problem then is I guess they aren't stocking them now or just don't have any.

Chuck, the assembly of the bearings is very simple and straight foward. I thinkt he most important part is having to follow the servie manual for torque specs and sequnces. Also keeping any debri out off the journals and the bearings.

Tom

longassname · #64 05-10-2007, 06:30 PM

Rods are here and shipping labels have already been printed to send them on to those who ordered them. They will go out tomorrow.

sicksubie · #65 05-10-2007, 08:55 PM

Can you hold off on my rods for a few days. I will be away until a week from this saturday and do not want the box sitting on my front steps for that long a time period.

TomsSVX · #66 05-11-2007, 01:35 AM

Mike, just send Bobby's to me anyway. I will need em for his bearings that are being shipped to me as well

Tom

longassname · #67 05-11-2007, 07:52 AM

Ok Robert, Tom Robert's rods went to Tom.

longassname · #68 05-11-2007, 07:40 PM

I just used sealed power rod bearings on one of my engines. They are available in all the sizes as well. I think I liked them, for whatever that is worth.

The Clevite 77 bearings are made in Japan and may be the factory bearings. I can't say about the Beck Arnley or Hi-tech's. The Sealed Power are Made in the USA.

longassname · #69 05-11-2007, 07:51 PM

To add to that:

You want to check all your main and rod journals for round with a micrometer and check your crank for straightness with a v block and dial guage.

Since you probably don't have a v-block, you could alternatively use one of the block halves with only the front and rear main bearings installed. Figure out how to mount a dial guage so you can position it over the other bearing journals. When you spin the crank the dial guage reading should maintain within 1 thousandth.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

mike.,, the only problem then is I guess they aren't stocking them now or just don't have any.

Chuck, the assembly of the bearings is very simple and straight foward. I thinkt he most important part is having to follow the servie manual for torque specs and sequnces. Also keeping any debri out off the journals and the bearings.

Tom

longassname · #70 05-11-2007, 08:04 PM

To get your engine apart you're going to need:
1)14mm hex wrench
2)factory circlip pliers
3)factory piston pin remover

To get it back together you will also need a piston pin installer (I turned my own on the lathe)

I've heard up north the dealers will actually lend you the factory tools. I don't know about Orlando--you may want to give it a try. You're going to need the tools no matter what. It's not like any machine shop is going to have them either.

cdigerlando · #71 05-14-2007, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by longassname

I'm not going to close deck and don't recomend you try it. Taken your heads off yet? Have a look inside the water jackets. That's where most of the bolts that hold the two halves of the block together are. If you are going to put anything in there they would have to either be removable inserts or small braces not in the way of the bolts.

Most of the closed deck systems have holes to run a socket extender through. I believe that is how it is done. I'd hate to lose a nut in there though. I think that semi closing the deck would be just as good. I'm not a big fan of press fit braces. I have heard that they can expand when heated and neck down the top of the cylinder wall. Welded inserts are supposed to be the way to go. That way there is no prestressing of the cylinder wall. I think that the advantages of semi closing the deck would be to stabilize the cylinder better. I think that the added advantage of fully closing the deck would be to reduce cracking at the top of the cylinder and to improve head gasket sealing.

From a practical standpoint I think you are right though. This may just be overkill. For pressures below 20 psi a good metal head gasket should do the trick. I would love to do this, but my funds are getting low.

longassname · #72 05-14-2007, 12:23 PM

when you take your engine apart you will see.

cdigerlando · #73 05-19-2007, 02:22 PM

Just got my rods. Eagle does really good work. I have a question for Mike. How does oil get to the pin in piston slot. There are oiling journals on the pin to rod connection but not the pin to piston connection. Does oiling occur by the scraping of the oil ring and collection of oil from the cylinder walls? It looks like the piston to pin connection journal receives oil from the edge of the piston.

TomsSVX · #74 05-19-2007, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

Just got my rods. Eagle does really good work. I have a question for Mike. How does oil get to the pin in piston slot. There are oiling journals on the pin to rod connection but not the pin to piston connection. Does oiling occur by the scraping of the oil ring and collection of oil from the cylinder walls? It looks like the piston to pin connection journal receives oil from the edge of the piston.

You just answered your own questions

Tom

longassname · #75 05-19-2007, 10:09 PM

You are noticing another of the "special" features incorporated into these pistons. Each side of the piston has double pin oilers (that's 4 oilers) in an oil dispersion groove on the top side of the pin. The oilers connect to ports through to the bottom side of the oil control ring so that the piston actually pumps oil into the piston pin oilers during the downward stroke when the pressure of the power stroke would otherwise be squeezing the oil out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

Just got my rods. Eagle does really good work. I have a question for Mike. How does oil get to the pin in piston slot. There are oiling journals on the pin to rod connection but not the pin to piston connection. Does oiling occur by the scraping of the oil ring and collection of oil from the cylinder walls? It looks like the piston to pin connection journal receives oil from the edge of the piston.