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  #1  
Old 06-09-2006, 09:57 PM
Ken92SVX Ken92SVX is offline
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knocking noise from left front of engine?

I just noticed after getting home today that the engine was making a knocking noise at idle but could not tell it when driving. I had just recently changed the timing belt about 50 miles prior to the problem came up. Thinking that it might be a lifter problem I flushed the engine oil and changed the oil and added, as I usually do MOA which is a BG product that is suppose to fortify the oil. The knocking noise is constant. At first I thought the noise was coming from either the power steering pump, alternator or the AC compressor, but using a stethoscope maybe not. The noise as best I can tell with using a screw driver stethoscope appears to be coming form the left side cam area at the front. I had also replaced the engine camshaft and front crank shaft seals when I did the timing belt.
I pulled the left timing cover off and ran the engine and everything looked fine under the cover. This car has about 154,000 miles. How long does the oil pump typically last?
The engine runs well other than the knocking noise. Does anyone have an idea what could be causing the knocking noise?

Last edited by Ken92SVX; 06-09-2006 at 10:00 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-09-2006, 10:11 PM
Ken92SVX Ken92SVX is offline
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Camshaft seal too tight?

Is it possible to push the camshaft seals, when changing them, in to tight that it causes oil to be cut off from around the camsaft? How far should the seals go in?
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  #3  
Old 06-10-2006, 09:27 AM
Ken92SVX Ken92SVX is offline
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noise from under timing covers?

I ran my car this morning. It was not as load as it was yesterday when the engine was warm. I think now that the noise is emanating from under the timing covers, more toward the drivers side. I think it may be the water pump area or one of the idler pulleys. Is there anyway you can tell what is causing the noise without having to take off all the timing belt covers?
If it is the water pump making the noise, I think it will probably get worse later, although the engine runs in the normal range and the radiator seems normal.
Right now the engine sounds more like a diesel with a regular rhythmic knock.
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2006, 10:17 AM
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Are you sure the crankshaft pulley is on strait and true?
Are you sure the crankshaft key is in place?
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2006, 04:37 PM
Ken92SVX Ken92SVX is offline
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Crank shaft pulley

Yes, I checked the cranshaft pulley. It is on straight, tight without any wobble. I also checked and I do not have any codes stored in the car. I guess I am going to have to take it apart again and take a look, but this time I will need a new tensioner because it push through the storing pin hole when I was putting it in the last time.
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  #6  
Old 06-10-2006, 07:51 PM
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Trevor Trevor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken92SVX
Yes, I checked the cranshaft pulley. It is on straight, tight without any wobble. I also checked and I do not have any codes stored in the car. I guess I am going to have to take it apart again and take a look, but this time I will need a new tensioner because it push through the storing pin hole when I was putting it in the last time.
The tensioner could in fact very well be the culprit. In this part of the World where Subarus are very popular, a shop will not guarantee a cam belt job, unless the complete tensioner assembly is replaced at the same time. This is proven good practice and is not a money grab.
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  #7  
Old 06-11-2006, 06:49 AM
Ken92SVX Ken92SVX is offline
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Tensioner assembly

Trevor,
When you say the complete tensioner assembly do you mean the tensioner adjuster and the tensioner idler that the tensioner pushes against?
I called the local Subaru shop and they said that both the water pump or the tensioner could cause knocking.
Just in case, I ordered both the water pump and tensioner, but I did not order a new tensioner idler, as I did not want to spend more than was necessary.
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